Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Help! I got beat by a Phord!

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Overhead consoles availible

Status
Not open for further replies.
Auto is the way to go for racing, you just have to spend some time at the track tho it took me a while to figure out the best way to launch, I would fight the turbo lag if I was to soft on the launch, and blowing the tires off if to hard but some late nights on some back roads and I think ive got it figured out now just have to wait and see at the track
 
It's hard for me to understand why you would try racing at all with a slipping clutch. These trucks really run good doing what they were designed to do, but they weren't built for Drag Racing from the factory. I've read a lot of posts here about stock clutches not being able to stand up to the engine. I know from experience that the stock automatics can't stand up ( three trans overhauls in two years ) after I installed the low stall converter, shift kit, and # five plate, it's hard to believe I still have the same truck. It will definately leave my 460 setting at the stoplight.

My main point here is that if you want your truck to stay together you can't hot rod it with stock running gear, and you definately can't BOMB it.
 
...

Chrleb1, I am really contemplating a mitchell dual disk. So, do you just slip it until it gets moving or what? Berrigan, while watching my boost guage between 3-4th, I can shift and only loose about 7psi. drops from about 25 to 18 or so. Most of that is probably due to the gear gap there, I assume. I dont even have to put 10K behind it, once i am in 4th, I can spank the phord. heck, the challenger we have now runs low 14's (stock 340) and I can walk it from about 45mph on. Daniel H, my clutch does not slip if I use first, or in 2nd, 3rd,4th etc for that matter. only if I try to start in second hard. Maybe I'm launching at too high of rpm, maybe I let it out to fast, im sure im at fault not the clutch. My main point of this post was not wondering why my clutch slips, or why he beat me, but rather if Bombing would help me out alot or not when racing an auto. I realize now that I should try to change my second gear starting technique a little (maybe a lot!), and first is not the way to go. Thanks for your input forrest. What technique do you use to launch? (revs, how fast you let the clutch out, etc)
 
pwerwagn said:
Jlh, I never said I didnt understand why i lost. I dont think it is a mysterey, I understand fully. In fact, I was impressed that I actually caught him! I was just asking the question if I did a little bombing could I expect to close the gap, or could I ever launch well enough to keep up? And yes, If I launch in second, the clutch does slip. It does not grind, It just does not go! If I can get it moving at all, like first does, then I can dump it into second and it hooks. It has never slipped in 3rd, 4th or 5th. I dont pull a trailer from second, just stating that it is high enough in second that it wont really move. I'm with you forrest, run whatcha brung. and besides, even though it is a 360 and his is a 460, his is NA. I think 25 psi and almost double the compression kinda evens out the displacement differences. Not really an argument in my book, apples to oranges. I did beat a 2000 1 ton chevy dually 454 with 410s and an auto in the 1/4. He only ran 18. 83. He did get me off the line though. I used to race a 70 dodge challenger. I knocked off 3 1/10's just by going to a manual. Im a manual guy till I die too. Nobody has 60-foot times for a 5 speed?



Yes, bombing will certainly enable you to close the gap. But it seems pointless to me unless your first bombs are a new clutch and a repaired transmission.



If you willing to punish your truck (i mean, really punish) you can launch in 4wd in 3rd gear. Bring your rpm up to 2600 or so, and ease the clutch out as fast as you can while burying the skinny pedal.



There's no reason a bombed CTD can't turn 60fts in the low 1. 7s with a good (read: lucky) launch.



For a 12V looking for strip performance, it's hard to argue against 4K GSK, Marine 370s and a #10 plate. By the way-- you WILL need a turbo with the fueling setup. A Pius USB from Bell turbo should burn most of that fuel, and you'll have easy high 13s or better.



Justin
 
pwerwagn said:
Chrleb1, I am really contemplating a mitchell dual disk. So, do you just slip it until it gets moving or what?

I would go with a South Bend Dual Disc personally. Really nice guys over there and good quality stuff. No modifactions (except input shaft) to install either. All there is to a 3rd gear launch is take it to 3,000 rpm or so, and then ease out on the clutch and give full accordinglyto keep it around 3,000. You must have a GSK to do this though (if not you will be at the governor). I do mine in 2wd, 4wd just takes too much away. Its really fun when you get the hang of it. I'm at 34 lbs of boost when i get going and 42 maxed out.
 
..

I was thinking about the mitchell because I think the mitchells are alittle cheaper for an equivalent clutch. Am I wrong? for some reason I am thinking a mitchell is like 1800 while a comparative SB is 2300$, does that sound about right? Does the mitchell require more modifications to install than the SB?
 
Well, we had an older Mitchell clutch and you had to shave the inside of the bellhousing. The southbend is just a very nice setup. To make the clutch fit nicely, they machine down the flywheel. There are a couple different styles of the dual disc that Southbend offeres and they vary in price. They have two pulling and one street dual disc (i think). With the strongest one, you can't shift too fast. Mine is one step down and can shift pretty fast (5th is a little hard sometimes when racing).
 
dual disk $2k, 370's $300, grind face flat on your plate $0, 3000gsk $300, HTb2 turbo $1000, the look on your buddies face when you race him priceless.



$3600 buck plus install and guages, intake and exhaust.



$5K total... ... . that is cheap for a 13 second 8000lb truck that can pull a bulldozer last 400Kmiles and gets over 13-18mpg doing it.



slip the clutch in second it you burn it up get a new one life is to short to be scared. your not talking about rock climing where your might fall and die the worst that could happen is your fry your clutch so you buy a new one and are even more happy you burnt the old one up



rock on!
 
...

Thats what im talking about. so Im only looking at about 3900$, already have guages, have a BHAF waiting, and can get that jegs exhaust for 300$. sounds like a plan. thanks guys for all the input.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top