HELP. i only have first gear my Transmission faild and left me stranded

[subodh]

Sounds like you and they are on the right track, but, you have to remind them this is NOT a 2000 lb race car with considerably low TQ and a high stall converter. They MUST take this into account or you will just smoke their race car builds easily.



Be sure to tell them you will be putting 1000 ft\lbs of TQ thru the trans at 1600-1800 roms, per your build specs. That puts a different spin on things. The front band (2nd gear) must hold that with the TC locked, as will the diretc clutches need to hold it. The only way to do it is good material, more surface area and more pressure at low rpms. On the way they MUST address the forward clutch pack. This gets forgotten too often in a diesel and you will end up welding the clutch pack on a boosted launch or low rpm full power runs.



As many clutches as possible with as much pressure as possible then you have a problem with the OE clutch pistons warping and sealing. Billet pistons in the direct and forward clutch packs are almost mandatory if you are gonna twist it hard.



Make sure the TC builders understand how a diesel makes power and where or you will end up with a sub standard product. You want as low stall as possible with as much efficiency as possible to make it work correctly. The must do some custom stator work or you loose too much at high throttle and transition form fluid coupling to lockup on a triple is VIOLENT and will break things.



The truth is if you don't spend at least $1000 on the TC alone you will have a weak link and transmission killer at a critical juncture point. Gasser TC's are only going to work in race type vehicles that weight much less. You have a 7k box car to accelerate and that takes a different approach front front to back on the trans.



You will have to address OD clutch pack also under high power. Once you have the trans putting the power down you will want to get into OD on a timely basis to load the engine and make the speed\ET. The stock OD setup won't hold, it needs more clutches than look at the OD pinion and you will want to exventually spring for thta $400 steel cage steel gear planetary gear or BOOM at an inopportune time.



I am envious, sound slike a fun project. Wishing you best of luck.

what specs will a good tc have for race and what for daily? What stall speed woud benefit me also ive heard that aftermarket tc will loose less power and slip less = gain mpg

 

[cerberusiam]

A lot depends on how you are setting up your fueling to react and how the turbo spools.



Example: if your fueling system doesn't get going well until 2000 rpms and your converter is stalling at 1700 its gonna a smoky hot laggy pig to get rolling. If you remove the TQ management or severely reduce it and fuel hard in the bottom to mid range you can use a tight TC and still get the turbo spooled with minimal smoke. That will work good on the track where smoke is not a big deal but can be touchy to drive on the street or in slippery conditions.



With twin turbos you can easily change fueling and still retain driveabilty but with a single you are giving up something to, power or driveability especially with an auto to make it work.



A TC with high efficiency will naturally lower the stall, take less pedal and power to accelerate all other things being equal. They frequently aren't so its not a linear comparison. The key is getting a balance between the efficiency and stall to minimize, still allow the truck to accelerate but put as much power thru the trans, and not blow it up when the TC locks. The amount of kintic energy transfered when an ISB drops 500-600 rpm is HUGE under full throttle. SOMETHING is going to give somewhere whether it be hard parts or clutch slip. Controlled clutch slip is much preferable to twisting shafts and blowing up drums.



The triples work really good for holding the power but they can be HARD on drive trains under certain conditions. Thats an art to design a trans to transfer the maximum amount of power without detonating and scattering parts all over the road\track. You do not EVER want to be on top of auto trans without a blanket and blow a drum up.

 

[subodh]

droped ot today all parts on it way and a billet flexplate. In bottom of my oilpan i foind the bandstrut. . Not so mich metall in the pan thistime but tje oil sure smells like ****. What should i clean all my transmission parts with?

 

[subodh]

got alot of parts a bd tc and some solenoids shifkit and thing from my local store. .

but they sent me a kit called "alto HP Master Kit A618/48RE 03-UP"

will that hold up, what can that handel?? same clutchcount but how can i improve it or will it work?

cant really wait for a new kit cause i need to get the truck running and i cant understand how any more clutches will fit in it. the input shaft was abit screwed up plates and 2 clutches was burned and it have eaten some splines of it

 

[cerberusiam]

The stock clutch count with clutch upgrades and shift kit will handle quite a bit unless you thrash it hard. Once you to to 600 HP and above and start racing pretty sure tou will need to up those clutch counts and add other pieces.



There are 2 ways to increase the clutch count, thinner clutches and steels, or a special billet piston and retainer.



Hope you got an input shaft. Thats generally what happens when the direct clutches go. Spins them on the input drum and cuts a grove right thru it. Been there, done that.

 

[subodh]

yep my input wasnt looking good and i had a billet to put in there as well as tc flexplate levers bands and alot of ****! what about a anchor for the band? will stock take it or not? i have billet strut

 

[subodh]

so around 600hp. . rwhp or engine? i will maby race for fun sometime but its my daily driver truck so

 

[cerberusiam]

A billet band anchor is good idea with extra pressure. Check over your apply lever closely also to make sure it isn't starting to crack or wear on the tip.

 

[subodh]

who can send me these transmission parts? to finland



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



for the 48re i need



od direct clutch wawed snapring 5. 75inces



billet band anchor

(not the band strut, the thing on the other end that the bolt push on)







why was my snapring in alot of pieces and why was my anchor broken?



who can ship it to finland transmission center was about 150dollars

for shipping and parts was around 20dollars

 

[subodh]

my lever was in good condition but its a nuber 5 from mopar do i need another one?