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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Help....I turn key off- but stays running

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Cleaning radiator

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Replaced lift pump today

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It sure sounds like the relay is bad. Did you replace the correct one on the firewall? (Dealer advice ya know) It could be bad connections at the relay I suppose. Bad ign sw? Mmm. Seems someone had a problem with a fuseable link but I can't remember what the symptoms were. Have you checked to see if you are getting 12v to the relay with the key in start position?



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I had the same problem but mine was the starter staying engaged, it burnt up the shut down solienoid before i could turn my truck off. I had my starter rebuilt and have not had the same problem since. Also when I bought a new one the brackets were different, so I asked the dealer and he said that they were having problems and they made the solinoid bigger.
 
woody,



There is a blue wire on the positive post of the driver's side battery. This is a fusable link. Test it by using a large jumper wire from the battery post to the other end of the blue wire. If that fixes it you need a new blue fusable link wire.
 
Thanks a lot, the blue wire is the next test. I have replaced the relay, got it from the dealer for 52. 00. Checked the selenoid and it is good and works ok. All the dealer could tell me was to bring it in and for about 80. 00 bucks an hour they would look at it, lot of help for them maybe. The blue wire sounds like the ticket because I did run a jumper from the battery to the selenoid and it pops right up and stays up. Thanks for the help, will check it out and get back.



Woody
 
Woody, one other place to look if it isn't the blue wire is the factory coupling pig tail from the fuel solenoid. I had problems with mine not starting and found one of the wires came loose inside of the coupling.
 
Thanks for the info, anything is appreciated. Haven't checked the blue wire yet, colder than a well diggers you know what out in the shop, taking notes though, be out in the shop in a few days.



Thanks



Woody
 
Woody



I'm interested in your progress because I just replaced the solenoid (it was mecanically challenged) now it's doing what yours is (was) . Starts then stalls when releasing the key from the crank position to the run position. (holding coil not holding)

You said you applied 12v to the soleniod. Which ones - RED, WHITE or BLACK? Theres two coils in this soleniod.



I'll check it out in this order







1) relay

2) blue wire

3) starter contacts



dj
 
djbobo



The relay is only to carry the high amperage (48amp+) load of the "pull" coil. The run coil doesn't have a relay because the draw is only a few amps. I would first check the connector at the fuel solenoid real good. Use a trouble light to check if there is power there when the key is on. If not, start working your way up the harness till you find power and the problem.



Red=pull

White=hold

Black=ground



Here is a wireing diagram>> #ad
 
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Hello: Well sorry that it took so long to get back but I finally got around to checking out the blue wire and sure enough the connection at the battery post was open, trimmed it up and put a new end on it and jumped in turned the key and she popped right off. Work just like when it was new. Thanks for the help, you guys know a lot more than the dealers that is for sure
 
fuel solenoid

had the same problem solenoid would hold when pushed up but would not pull up had to adjust steering whell to drive with knee next time i went to start truck poped hood went to push solenoid up it was in place no problems since:rolleyes:
 
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