Help installing tough country running boards...

[PRyker]

I just took shipment of a set of tough country running boards. I have a second gen 02 SRW, QC long bed. The boards have two mounts per side with one hole in each and come with a total of four bolts only. My questions:



1. What holes in the frame do I bolt these to?

2. Since the frame is hollow and I cannot get behind it how did you guys install the bolts into the exisiting holes in the frame?

3. Is two bolts per side enough?



Thanks. I asked this over in the tough country thread but it is so buried now I thought I would take a chance with a new thread.



Thanks



Phil

 

[PRyker]

I looked at it a little closer and now appears that for the drivers side I may need to remove the fuel tank and ebrake cable. Please tell me this is not the case. Is there a way to get a bolt into a hole when you do not have access to the other side of the hole?? It has to be a solid method?



Thanks

 

[PRyker]

OK, I talked to tough country and they told me this:



1. I will have to loosen the gas tank to get the rear drivers side bolt in. He told me to use a piece of wood to place between the tank and frame memver and pry a bit to get the room you need to get your hand and the bolt in there.



2. The front bolts require you to be very flexible and have thin and very long fingers. You have to insert the bolt and washer seperatelt into the hole next to the hole it is suppose to use to clamp up. Get this: Then you need to place the washer on the bolt and insert it into the right hole once it is in the frame rail using your fingers.



I have looked at this and although the gas tank maybe a bit easier I am not sure I will be able to pull off the other two front bolts. Does someone have an idea of how to get a bolt into a hole when you cannot reach the backside? They must have some type of bolt for these situations that I could buy and use? Similar to those drywall screws that you put through a small hole and then when you tighten them up they enlarge in back and snug up giving you a tight fit. I know I need something much more heavy duty. Any thoughts??

 

[bighammer]

In the past I have used well nuts (rubber plug with threaded insert) and a molly type anchor made for metal (not 1/2" drywall) that I got from a body shop. Not sure if they come in a large enough size though.

 

[gitchesum]

I didn't install the toughcountry brand running boards, but I did install a set that were close in design that also required a bolt behind the fuel tank.



Now, my method might not work due ot lack of a welder, but for those that do have one this might help.



First, I had to drill a new hole for the bolt that held the last bracket on, I used a drill bit stop to keep it from going too far and drilling right into the plastic fuel tank.

Once the hole was drilled, I was took a new welding rod, and just as I touched it to the head of the bolt, I would pull the ground off so the welding rod was tacked onto the head of the bolt. Then I just fed it through the space between the fuel tank and the frame with the welding rod and worked it into the hole I drilled. Once the nut was on the other end, I just pulled the welding rod loose. I was able to get a long wrench on it once it was in place.

 

[PRyker]

Well I got three out of the four bolts in. For the two front bolts that needed to go into the hollow frame member (no access either side) I used two pieces of string to fish the bolts through the right hole. Took some time but worked very well.



I do not like the fact that the second gen tough country running boards only use a single bolt per brace. That means only two bolts per side. I will probably have it welded up in a few places just to be sure.



Now the last bolt (always the hardest) is the one on the drivers side rear. It needs to go into the frame but the gas tank is in the way. I tried loosening the tank and using a piece of wood to gain some clearence but I am afraid of breaking the plastic tank. So, I am going to drop the tank. Seems a bit radical just to install the running boards but I am committed now.



Anyone else with any install stories on these running boards?

 

[Cooker]

I will be installing my boards (on my 1996) next week. Thanks for posting your install issues, now I know what I need to be prepared for. It doesn't sound like it is going to be much fun



Please keep me posted on how you make out with the last bolt by the fuel tank.



Good luck.

 

[PRyker]

Cooker,



I am going to drop the tank as soon as my FASS comes in. I decided since I was going to remove the fuel tank that I might as well make it worth while. I have also identified that I will need to disconnect the ebrake cable as it is right in the way. You truck may be different.



The fuel tank removal seems straight forward. I am not too concerened about it. One member here says he can do it in 10 minutes. I fortunetly have a air compressor and air tools at home which makes wrenching on bolts much easier. With that said there are only 2 15 MM nuts that need to be removed. You will need a deep socket and a good 10" extension as the bolts are long and hard to get to.



I have the passenger side on already and they look great! I will take some pictures of dropping the fuel tank.



Thanks



Phil

 

[PRyker]

oh, and I could of used the same string method I used with the front bolts but my bolt hole has two fuel lines and some wiring running near the hole and the point where it is tied down is maybe less than a 1/4" from the hole making it very hard to get the bolt through the hole with the string method.



You have a 96' and may be much more lucky then I am!



Thanks



Phil

 

[Cooker]

Thanks for the info. I will hopefully get them on toward the end of next week. I'll keep you posted on how it goes.

 

[MChildress]

I BOUGHT A SET OF TOUGH COUNTRY WITH KICK OUT FOR 2004 DUELLY TODAY. THE SALES MAN EXPLAINED THEY CAME WITH ALL THE HARDWARE NEEDED AND JUST BOLTED UP TO THE TWO BODY BOLTS ON EACH SIDE AND TWO PLACES WHERE AT THE BOTTOM OF CAB (WHERE DODGE RAN OUT OF MONEY FOR THE RUBBER PLUGS AND STARTED USEING DUCK TAPE). I GOT HOME AND UNWRAPPED THE RUNNING BOARDS AND FOUND NO BOLTS OR HARDWARE AND UPON INSPECTING DISCOVERED ONLY FOUR BOLTS MOUNTED THEM TO THE FRAME. THE TRUCK STORE IS ABOUT 70 MILES AWAY SO I OPTED FOR THE HARDWARE STORE A LOT CLOSER AND PURCHASED X4 9/16 GRADE 8 FOUR INCH BOLTS TO GO THROUGH THE FRAME. I LINED THE RUNNING BOARDS UP WITH TWO CAR JACKS AND FOUND NO HOLES LINED UP WITH THE HOLES IN THE RUNNING BOARDS AND ALL WOULD HAVE TO BE DRILLED. I PULLED OUT THE WELDING MACHINE AND WELDED THEM IN AND THEY LOOK GREAT. THERE IS A MUFFLER HANGER THAT IS WELDED THROUGH THE FRAME ON THE PASSENGER SIDE THAT NEEDS TO BE GROUND FLUSH OR THE RUNNING BOARD NOTCHED AROUND IT. THIS IS A 2004 1/2 AND I DONT KNOW IF THE FRAME HOLES ARE POSSIBLY DIFFERENT THAN THE 03S AND 04S. 04 1/2 600 6SPEED DRW SPORT BLACK 4WD

 

[PRyker]

Well, I have gotten the passanger side on. Tne holes in the frame do line up properly for me and after fishing the bolt through the frame with string it went smoothly. The drivers side will require me to temporarily disconnect the e-brake cable and drop the fuel tank. I do not believe it will be that hard but have not done it yet since if I am going to drop my fuel tank I might as well put on the FASS at the same time. I am just waiting for it.



My TC running boards did come with all the proper hardware, just no instructions. I will probably also weld mine up as I do not like the 4 bolts they use.

 

[wild-t]

Like MChildress, I just put on a set of the TC running boards on my '04. 5 Dully Quad.



PRyker: With the above in mind I really can't help you there... since it appears that your's are frame mounted vice the 3rd gen quad boards that are bolted to the 'body to frame' mounts, and the rocker holes.

Everything lined up on mine and I got all the hardware as well. Just wanted to post a quick comment on my install.

 

[Cooker]

Well I got my passenger side on yesterday. The front bolt was a trick but a coat hanger came to the rescue, thanks bighammer (I still don't know how I managed that one )



I was a bit concerned they were not going to fit all that nice at first, but after tightening up the bolts the looked pretty good. I think I am going to fill the gap between the board and the body to give it a nice clean look with no breaks. I alrady have to holes in the pinch weld on the bottom of the body panels from the previous running borad install so I may utilize them and mount a thin piece of steel to fill the gap, at least that is my plan.



The only two things I would have liked to see different is I wish the back lip in the diamond plate was taller. That way it would have filled the small gap between the body and the board. I also wish they were a little closer to the front wheel. They seem to start a little too far back IMHO. The rear line up nice with the wheel well, but the front it back a bit.



Hopefully the drivers side doesn't go too bad. I might try to tackle it today. The fuel tank is full so if it requires moving the tank it will definitely have to wait.



I will try to post a couple pics.

 

[PRyker]

Same as me!!

Cooker,



SOunds like you had the exact same experience that I did. I use string to fish the bolts. I guess a coat hanger would of worked well too!!



I still have to put my drivers side on as well. Two things ebrake cable and gas tank seem to be the challenge. You may get away without having to drop the fuel tank. I have cables and fuel lines to close to the hole where the bolt needs to go so I have no choice. ebrake cable does not seem like a big deal.



I too have holes in the body where the old running boards bolted to. I use to have DeeZee black nerf bars but they looked like crap. I was just considering taking to a shop and have someone put a few spot welds to hold the bracket up to the frame. Thoughts??



I got my FASS so I will probably tackle this tomorrow afternoon. Today taking wife and kids to Hershey PA. It is a beautiful day here in Maryland!!!!



Let me know how your install goes.