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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Help intall fuel plate/AFC spring-Now please?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) engine surge

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It doesn't move much, maybe 1/4" if that much. You say you can't see the star wheel at all. I did not think you could have it that for forward, but you must have. Remove the housing and adjust it from the bottom until it is centered, then try again.
 
It should have a decent sized slot but I. Just slid mine forward what I thought was a small distance and turned the star wheel to the front of the hole and it made a huge difference on mine.
 
Sorry about the PDR cam post. I thought I was creating a new thread and wanted to share my results. I just saw that I posted it here on accident.
 
Still struggling to get more power. After I make an adjustment to the star wheel,

I get black smoke on start up, but no smoke after that.



1) My #11 plate is fully toward the engine. The afc cover I tried to slide fully toward

the front of the engine, but geeze its so minor an adjustment, I'm don't understand

how that makes such a difference.

2) My starwheel is completely retracted away from the diaphram... that was TSTs

recommendation in the instructions,

I did go back and try to put the starwheel in the middle and adjust from there, but I

still ended up fully retracted without smoke.

3) I put on a new barb to waste gate, it has a little tiny hole, compared to the stock

barb,but air does pass thru... it came with my torque plate, my new boost elbow is

on its way. Could the elbow make all the difference???





My low end power is mmmm maybe a little better, my max boost is about 20-21 (briefly)

usually my boost is running 0-3, more like 0, and jumps up only briefly on hard acceleration, then back to 0. Even if my numbers were higher, is this how boost works?

basically nothing until you get on it, or are pulling a load with acceleration?



My egts remain the same as they have been. . very good, maybe 6K cruising, quickly back to 3 on idle, tops maybe 900 max (but driving flat, no hill and not pulling hills.



I wondered about the overflow valve, but I haven't even tested it because my fuel pressure is totally normal--20 psi on start up, goes to 25 driving, it did go above 30 when I was pulling a trailer up hills, but consistently 20-25 around town.



I have tracked down 1) a loose clamp on lower intercooler boot

2) another time boost gauge tubing disconnected



Today I am going to put RTV on my boost sensor threads, I think that may be leaking

I know I need to get it timed, but seems like I should be getting more out of it than I am

even before timing , shouldn't I?
 
Your plate is full forward and your AFC is full forward and it is not a total smoke show?



Yes, plate the plate is pushed fully toward the front of the engine bay

the flat edge of the plate is closest to the front of the truck, the slotted edge is facing the rear of the truck



the AFC is scooted forward but the amount is so small, the movement available due to the slots for the bolts is just a little...



I noticed when I put the spring in, that the piece that goes against the fuel plate and is affected by the afc spring,

(is that the govenor arm?) is really stiff, hard to move forward,

is that normal?



sorry I'm such a newb, I know nothing until I ask, so I get pretty concrete with my questions.

I really appreciate your patience. I only hope there's someone else like me who will benefit from such details about such stuff...
 
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