Help interpret alignment check results

[Man_of_Constant_Sorrow]

Got new tires on my truck today. The shop did an alignment check and said I need an alignment. But from what little I know about front end alignment, this printout they gave me doesn't make sense. Perhaps someone here can help me understand it.
The truck is a 1995 Dodge Ram 2400 4x4 w/CTD, 8800 GVW, Regular cab, long bed.

The printout does not show a precise number, but a graphic with an arrow above the illustrated range, so I will guess at the numbers. It shows "Front total toe" just out of range a little past 0.20 degrees. It has a pair of graphics labeled "Front Camber", yes, Camber. Interesting, because camber is not adjustable on this suspension. It shows the left is good at about -0.15 degrees, the right is about on the limit of -0.3 degrees.
There is no reading on this printout regarding Caster, which IS adjustable ... so what the heck?

 

[KATOOM]

I cant speak for the integrity or the competence of the alignment shop you went to, but...I can tell you that aligning the 2nd gen Dodge Ram yourself in your driveway is extremely easy. Done with a string and a tape measure and maybe a bubble level if you find it helps.

Disclaimer: This only works if the suspension is not worn out, sagging horribly, and nothing in the drivetrain is bent from damage, or in need of replacing.

Park on a flat level surface so that the suspension is sitting equal. Take a string or measuring tape and adjust the front rims so that the inner part of the front rims are 1/8" closer together towards the front of the truck than they are towards the rear of the truck. You adjust the toe with the tie rod adjustment sleeve.

After that, with the tires pointed perfectly straight, use the adjustment sleeve on the drag link to adjust the steering wheel as close to straight as you like.

Then loosen both caster eccentric cam bolts on the control arms. With a wrench, turn the caster cams so that the pointer arrows on the side of the cam is pointing forward in the 10 o'clock position. Do NOT adjust it to point any closer to the noon position otherwise it can allow for the dreaded death wobble to happen. These suspensions offer way better driving characteristics with more positive caster, NOT negative caster.
Also its important to point out that there's cross caster pre-built into the axle which means the pointer arrow on the passenger side will always point farther forward than the drivers side. This is factory set to help with road crown.

Other than that, as long as everything is in good condition and nothings bent then you're good to go. Because yes, there is no adjustment for camber and if you want to adjust rear axle thrust then you'll have to cross measure the front and rear axles to assure their parallel. Again, as long as everything's in good shape, you wont have to bother. Now you've saved whatever the cost of alignment was.

 

[Man_of_Constant_Sorrow]

Thanks, KATOOM, that is interesting and sounds simple enough, and perhaps I will do it. However, I was just looking through my FSM, and I see a total toe-in spec of "0.25 degrees (+/- 0.25)". So based on the printout, I think it must be in spec already; despite their computer reporting it as out. I wish they had given me a caster reading. I'll have to stop by there again and ask about all this.

 

[KATOOM]

Here's the factory specs if it helps... http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/00_steer_specs.html

 

[JMcCoy]

If your camber is out, I would take it to a real alignment shop to have it corrected with the ball joint bushings. They can adjust cross caster at the same time. After its set up right, you can do your future adjustments in your driveway. Btw, a "real" alignment will run around $300. A $95 alignment at Tire Kingdom is a waste of money on our trucks.