I just did my 3K GSK kit from Peirs and moved my Banks Otto mind fuel cal plate all the way forward, and turned the AFC star wheel about 25-30 times, I had lost count as it turned sometimes where I think I caught the count. But I went to test drive it and it had major gains in second gear off the start but I took it up a grade and it had lower boost than before, about 8 psi at full throttle?? I was really stumped then I thought, well, I took the Twin Ram Banks manifold off of the truck to access all the stuff on the injection pump and it may have a boost leak. What do you think?? It idled a little high upon start up but I measured the height of the springs on the 3K GSK and they were right on. I lowered the idle, so it is now all good @900 RPM. But it just didn't build boost like before and my EGTs were not very high for moving the plate all the way forward. The EGT temps were about 1000 pinning it up that grade in 5th gear @ 1900 RPMs. The engine is obviously a 12v, and it has a 14cm wastegated turbine from banks, basically I bought the BAnks power pack and now I am tuning it up a bit more. Please help!! I will try to replace the manifold gaskets and see what happens. But PLEASE HELP!!
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I am sure I went the right way with the star wheel, towards the engine for more pre-boost fueling and away for less. I definately went the right way since I have a lot more smoke blipping the throttle. It was just weird, lower boost , so I am expecting a boost leak, but wouldn't my EGTs still be high since I moved the plate all the way forward even though boost was 8 psi low??
Ok, one guy told me that the fuel shutdown solenoid could not be fluxing, but if it doesn't move when you start the truck then it shouldn't start right?? I had to remove it to access the GSK spring plug but installed it the exact same way as before. It is pretty old and I think it is time for a new one. The dust boot is ll torn to shreds, could this be an issue????????? PLease help!
I'd have a friend help ya, When you start the truck make sure the shutoff is staying pulled up all the way. I'd also check your AFC boost line, make sure that is connected and doing it's job. If the AFC isnt' getting fuel, you can have a low power/boost problem. I haven't installed a GSK on my truck yet, but I haven't heard of a power problem after install.
Good luck and keep us posted!
Josh
*edit* If you have a 5spd, check the line the entire way, it runs under the valve cover and tends to crack. If it's an auto it's just a small plastic flexable line that goes to the intake.
Good luck and keep us posted!
Josh
*edit* If you have a 5spd, check the line the entire way, it runs under the valve cover and tends to crack. If it's an auto it's just a small plastic flexable line that goes to the intake.
Last edited:
Some other sypmtoms
Some others are it really gets it in second gear, quite an improvement!!
Plenty of smoke and power accleration through 2800 rpm. But when I shift to third and fourth it gets it up to about 1800 rpm then it slowly climbs in rpm, doesn't pull as hard as it used to, and the EGTs are nnot high like I thought they would be from moving the plate full forward. 
Climbing the local big grade around here was tough this morning, it seemes to get bogged down in 5th gear @ 75 mph up this hill. I really just seemed like it wasn't building boost, like the air was going somewhere else. Hopfully, I can find the leak, cuz it definately wasn't the manifold, it has to be the AFC swagelok line off the manifold. Does anyone know what size swagelok fittings those are that go into the manifold and the AFC housing?? Both the boss fitting and the line size?? I can get some new swagelok from my work but need to know the size.
I hope that is the fix cuz it seems like it is just missing something and I am anxious to feel the real power of this 3K GSK upgrade.
Some others are it really gets it in second gear, quite an improvement!!
Plenty of smoke and power accleration through 2800 rpm. But when I shift to third and fourth it gets it up to about 1800 rpm then it slowly climbs in rpm, doesn't pull as hard as it used to, and the EGTs are nnot high like I thought they would be from moving the plate full forward. Climbing the local big grade around here was tough this morning, it seemes to get bogged down in 5th gear @ 75 mph up this hill. I really just seemed like it wasn't building boost, like the air was going somewhere else. Hopfully, I can find the leak, cuz it definately wasn't the manifold, it has to be the AFC swagelok line off the manifold. Does anyone know what size swagelok fittings those are that go into the manifold and the AFC housing?? Both the boss fitting and the line size?? I can get some new swagelok from my work but need to know the size. I hope that is the fix cuz it seems like it is just missing something and I am anxious to feel the real power of this 3K GSK upgrade.
Go to the PDR site and look at the "secret gov. lever adj. " The banks plates are similiar in profile to a TST #5 or #6, the strap may be hanging under the lip of the plate. To ck. yours remove the afc housing and hold up the shut off solenoid with one hand and start to move the throttle with the other hand, is it "contacting" properly. You can also slide the plate forward or back to assure that it isn't riding under the plate (you moved it full ahead right?)
You had great boost until your mods right? I'd look at the afc housing boost signal. The "swaglock" is likely metric, but the tubing although likely metric looks similiar to 1/8" tubing. Is the rubber "oring" still in the end that attaches to the afc housing.
Did you blow a charge air cooler clamp somewhere?
The starwheel as view from the adjuster's stance (peering in the hole from the ds fender), the farther the wheel is to the radiator the richer it is, the farther towards the firewall . . leaner. .
How's your fuel psi? If its low, it robs some ponies. .
Let us know, good luck.
Andy
You had great boost until your mods right? I'd look at the afc housing boost signal. The "swaglock" is likely metric, but the tubing although likely metric looks similiar to 1/8" tubing. Is the rubber "oring" still in the end that attaches to the afc housing.
Did you blow a charge air cooler clamp somewhere?
The starwheel as view from the adjuster's stance (peering in the hole from the ds fender), the farther the wheel is to the radiator the richer it is, the farther towards the firewall . . leaner. .
How's your fuel psi? If its low, it robs some ponies. .
Let us know, good luck.
Andy
Yes, I moved my plate all the way forward after the 3K install.
Yes, I had great boost until I messed with the 3K, moving the Banks plate forward and turning the AFC wheel towards the engine about 25-30 clicks.
Not sure what your refering to about an o-ring on the AFC. I replaced the line with some new 1/4" tubing, new ferrules and nuts. Do you have to run the fitting on the AFC that has the orfice? My new tubing kept pinching cuz of the tight 180 turn it must make, so I just replaced that fitting with a 90, tefloned the threads and it's good.
No, I did not blow a boost boot anywhere, I have checked every clamp and boot. Good and tight.
How is your star wheel oriented?? If I am looking at it from the top from the driver side, then the wheel turns toward the passenger side and the driver side. I clicked it 25-30 times toward the engine and passenger side. I have been told that is the correct way to turn it for a richer mixture.
I doubt my fuel pressure has changed and why it could change, haven't checked it thought, I don't have the ability to do that. Please respond to these answers, thanks
Joe
Joe:
See insertions to your comments/questions. .
>>>Yes, I moved my plate all the way forward after the 3K install.
Yes, I had great boost until I messed with the 3K, moving the Banks plate forward and turning the AFC wheel towards the engine about 25-30 clicks.
>>
Put the plate back in the middle. . ck. where the lever contacts
You may have to change one thing at the time to isolate which mod caused the issue.
>>Not sure what your refering to about an o-ring on the AFC. I replaced the line with some new 1/4" tubing, new ferrules and nuts.
Take the AFC line and try and blow thru it, with one end covered. . its probably alright. Once in a while the sealing "o-ring" (slide the nut back, it acts like a ferrule and a seal) falls off. If it checks out reinstall it and the oem fittings.
Its also possible that the diaphram was torn inside the afc housing, but this is a long shot...
>>Do you have to run the fitting on the AFC that has the orfice?>
Yes, I think I confused things, I thought you had a 175 hp (94-95) not a 1996-1998 215 hp engine. Your application has rubber and steel tubing providing the wastegate with boost as it needs to "blow off" as necessary. . The orifice restricts this from happening until later. Remove the tin cover over the valve covers as necessary for a better view. I remove the "barbed fitting" and put the orfice there. . if its indexed right the rubber boost line will slide right onto it and then snug up the clamp (after afc is re-installed on the engine). Put some thread sealer or small amount of teflon tape on the threads of the fitting.
Disconnect the rubber line from the wastegate and the afc, block wastegate end and blow thru the metal/rubber tubing combo, do you have a split in the metal or rubber lines somewhere. I've seen them chafe on a valve cover and leak (steel tubing). If it ck's out, slide some rubber tubing over the metal line to protect it from touching a valve cover.
>>My new tubing kept pinching cuz of the tight 180 turn it must make, so I just replaced that fitting with a 90, tefloned the threads and it's good.
Reinstall the oem afc line if it ck's out.
>>No, I did not blow a boost boot anywhere, I have checked every clamp and boot. Good and tight.
Are the intake manifold bolts torq'd to 18 ft lbs. ? Are the base gaskets torn or seated properly. .
>>How is your star wheel oriented?? If I am looking at it from the top from the driver side, then the wheel turns toward the passenger side and the driver side. I clicked it 25-30 times toward the engine and passenger side. I have been told that is the correct way to turn it for a richer mixture.
You correct in your adjustment of the starwheel, my illustration was from the perspective of how close the starwheel is the radiator end of the afc vs the firewall end, after your adjustment. If you spin the wheel towards the engine enough the starwheel will move towards the radiator as viewed thru the inspection plug.
>>I doubt my fuel pressure has changed and why it could change, haven't checked it thought, I don't have the ability to do that.
Could you have sucked some trash into a screen or plugged a fuel filter? The banjo fitting on the fuel water seperator/filter housing closest to the injection pump has a plug on the top of it. A 10mm socket will fit this. TST sells a metric adapter that threads in so a pressure gauge can be attached. The threads are m6*1. 0 by about 12-mm long? S/b 20 psi at idle and 30+ at rated rpm (2500 rpm or higher).
Poor, low fuel psi, means fuel restriction from a collapsed line, dirty, clogged filter or screens, stuck overflow valve (open position) allowing the fuel to return to the tank, rather than supply the pump as necessary. Transfer lift pump that's not up to snuff etc.
Also ck. the air filtration for no clogs, restrictions. etc. .
Most diesel literature always states for low power/ boost to check for proper fueling and air entry/flow. Either doesn't allow the engine to breath, or to have sufficent fuel to run properly. I follow this and a through ck. of innercooler plumbing throughly with such concern.
I have a homemade boost tester to check for any leaks in the innercooler piping etc.
Okay enough commentary but a little history/backgroung may help your troubleshooting in the future. One last war story. . I installed some gov. springs about a year ago for a customer only to have them call a tank or so later and ask why the truck ran so poorly after running so well. Turned out a fuel filter change fixed the problem. We had verified fuel psi at the time of the gov. spring install.
Maybe Mr. Murphy has taken up residence on the left coast, come to think of it he's stayed outta my way the last several days!
>>Please respond to these answers, thanks
Joe>>
Hopefully, this has helped. Andy
See insertions to your comments/questions. .
>>>Yes, I moved my plate all the way forward after the 3K install.
Yes, I had great boost until I messed with the 3K, moving the Banks plate forward and turning the AFC wheel towards the engine about 25-30 clicks.
>>
Put the plate back in the middle. . ck. where the lever contacts
You may have to change one thing at the time to isolate which mod caused the issue.
>>Not sure what your refering to about an o-ring on the AFC. I replaced the line with some new 1/4" tubing, new ferrules and nuts.
Take the AFC line and try and blow thru it, with one end covered. . its probably alright. Once in a while the sealing "o-ring" (slide the nut back, it acts like a ferrule and a seal) falls off. If it checks out reinstall it and the oem fittings.
Its also possible that the diaphram was torn inside the afc housing, but this is a long shot...
>>Do you have to run the fitting on the AFC that has the orfice?>
Yes, I think I confused things, I thought you had a 175 hp (94-95) not a 1996-1998 215 hp engine. Your application has rubber and steel tubing providing the wastegate with boost as it needs to "blow off" as necessary. . The orifice restricts this from happening until later. Remove the tin cover over the valve covers as necessary for a better view. I remove the "barbed fitting" and put the orfice there. . if its indexed right the rubber boost line will slide right onto it and then snug up the clamp (after afc is re-installed on the engine). Put some thread sealer or small amount of teflon tape on the threads of the fitting.
Disconnect the rubber line from the wastegate and the afc, block wastegate end and blow thru the metal/rubber tubing combo, do you have a split in the metal or rubber lines somewhere. I've seen them chafe on a valve cover and leak (steel tubing). If it ck's out, slide some rubber tubing over the metal line to protect it from touching a valve cover.
>>My new tubing kept pinching cuz of the tight 180 turn it must make, so I just replaced that fitting with a 90, tefloned the threads and it's good.
Reinstall the oem afc line if it ck's out.
>>No, I did not blow a boost boot anywhere, I have checked every clamp and boot. Good and tight.
Are the intake manifold bolts torq'd to 18 ft lbs. ? Are the base gaskets torn or seated properly. .
>>How is your star wheel oriented?? If I am looking at it from the top from the driver side, then the wheel turns toward the passenger side and the driver side. I clicked it 25-30 times toward the engine and passenger side. I have been told that is the correct way to turn it for a richer mixture.
You correct in your adjustment of the starwheel, my illustration was from the perspective of how close the starwheel is the radiator end of the afc vs the firewall end, after your adjustment. If you spin the wheel towards the engine enough the starwheel will move towards the radiator as viewed thru the inspection plug.
>>I doubt my fuel pressure has changed and why it could change, haven't checked it thought, I don't have the ability to do that.
Could you have sucked some trash into a screen or plugged a fuel filter? The banjo fitting on the fuel water seperator/filter housing closest to the injection pump has a plug on the top of it. A 10mm socket will fit this. TST sells a metric adapter that threads in so a pressure gauge can be attached. The threads are m6*1. 0 by about 12-mm long? S/b 20 psi at idle and 30+ at rated rpm (2500 rpm or higher).
Poor, low fuel psi, means fuel restriction from a collapsed line, dirty, clogged filter or screens, stuck overflow valve (open position) allowing the fuel to return to the tank, rather than supply the pump as necessary. Transfer lift pump that's not up to snuff etc.
Also ck. the air filtration for no clogs, restrictions. etc. .
Most diesel literature always states for low power/ boost to check for proper fueling and air entry/flow. Either doesn't allow the engine to breath, or to have sufficent fuel to run properly. I follow this and a through ck. of innercooler plumbing throughly with such concern.
I have a homemade boost tester to check for any leaks in the innercooler piping etc.
Okay enough commentary but a little history/backgroung may help your troubleshooting in the future. One last war story. . I installed some gov. springs about a year ago for a customer only to have them call a tank or so later and ask why the truck ran so poorly after running so well. Turned out a fuel filter change fixed the problem. We had verified fuel psi at the time of the gov. spring install.
Maybe Mr. Murphy has taken up residence on the left coast, come to think of it he's stayed outta my way the last several days!
>>Please respond to these answers, thanks
Joe>>
Hopefully, this has helped. Andy
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
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