Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Help Need a Fuel Shutoff Solenoid

[Stroke This 24V]

I just called the Cummins man and he shot me a price of $320. 19 OUCH!!! I would like to know who would have these for way less if possible or if someone would have one laying around and willing to part with it? Here is the part # 3800723 is the Cummins part #

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Do a search, a week or so ago there were serveral threads about this.



I'm assuming you already checked the relay and know that the solenoid is bad - but if not, check the relay. Also did you test the solenoid? If not, do that! On my 96 there is a fusable link that supplies power to the "pull" side of the coil - that could have gone bad!



Is it on your 2001?? If so, wouldn't that be under warranty??



Dan

 

[Stroke This 24V]

Not on the 2001

I have a little project I am working on and the solenoid is working fine as far as holding the plunger in when you push the rod back until it clicks.





Oh This is a 1997 Ram

 

[Jeff Burke]

check your relay before you drop all that money for a new sloenoid. If the plunger stays up, the solenoid is probably ok.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

If it were my truck... I'd totally get rid of that overpriced solenoid and install a manual shutdown cable. PTO and throttle cables work nicely and are MUCH cheaper.



Just trying to give you options...



Matt

 

[Blakers]

Originally posted by HoleshotHolset

If it were my truck... I'd totally get rid of that overpriced solenoid and install a manual shutdown cable. PTO and throttle cables work nicely and are MUCH cheaper.

I agree with this. I bet Cummins offers everything you need to do it. I'm sure many of the non-Dodge applications of the engine uses a cable shut off. Farm tractors, boats, generators, etc.



Blake

 

[Steve Roseman]

When I had the problem, it was as simple as a wire that had corroded off the + battery terminal.

 

[T. Baker]

I have a manual shut down cable and it works great. Just dont forget to turn off the key so your battery dosent drain through the altinator field coil.

 

[illflem]

I know on some tractors with a shut down cable that the alternator can get fried if you shut down with the key on (or was vice-versa?). Think it makes any difference on our rigs?

 

[QRTRHRS]

Originally posted by illflem

I know on some tractors with a shut down cable that the alternator can get fried if you shut down with the key on (or was vice-versa?). Think it makes any difference on our rigs?

I am not sure either. I turn off the key on my Case after I have pulled the selenoid cable out to shut it down. Might not be right but in 18 months, the alternator is still working.

 

[53 Willys]

Mine has been on a pto cable for the last 2 years. Out of habbit I always shut the key off first. I have not yet had a related problem.

 

[Dennis Garrett]

Here's one for sale on Ebay, not sure what it fits.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1747335730

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

That part on ebay is not what he is talking about. The blue wire (fusible link) at the left side + batt terminal is the one that powers the relay. There are two circuits, start and run. If the solenoid pulls on turning the key, start works. If it doesn't but when you move it manually it stays (with the key on), the start is bad but run is OK (need to replace the solenoid).

 

[stick]

Where are the relays located? My solenoid doesn't move when the key is turned on, but when you go to the start position with the key it will crank right off.

 

[Dan_69GTX]

The blue wire Joe spoke about is the same wire I mentioned. It is 16 gauge - so make sure you replace it with 16 gauge - else if there is something that blew it, you could toast something else. Mine ended up just being corroded out from battery acid.



At least it was a cheap and easy fix!



You can also "hotwire" the solenoid to check the run and pull coils. That makes it real easy to figure out if it is a coil in the soleniod or not.



Dan