HELP Need AuTo ElecTriCian in DFW ASAP!!!

[BlackTxThunder]

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Need a automotive electrician ASAP in DFW. My truck has been down since May of last year with Wes Snow. I am not blaming anyone here if anything it's my fault for having some complete idiots in S. FL work on it when I was stranded with no where else to go. Long story short I stopped them and had it hauled back to TX from FL on a flat bed in MAY 06. They did leave one battery in and the other one had the pos cable disconnected and dangling. Nice... IT still has not been resolved. Supposed to get to a dealer next week but I have finally gotten so sick of waiting and no-one, I mean no-one no-where having any idea what is wrong with it electrically. Basically you turn over the key and relays start clattering away. The alarm system has been removed completely. So hopefully next week a local dealership can get it in their shop, I have nearly given up after 7 grueling months of waiting and still not having a finished project.

Here is a link to the thread Wes started awhile back with a better explanation of what is wrong.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168970

Any help is greatly appreciated. I know Wes has tried through his resources and own means of testing. But the bottom line is everyone is still stumped and I don't have a truck.

 

[BlackTxThunder]

Great, no help here either with all the great diesel minds? Well it is past the point of desperation for me so I am pleading for any assistance... anyone?

 

[TowPro]

I just read your other post. no one is answering because this is a hard one!





I would start by pulling all the fuses under the hood, then put them in one at a time until the problem starts. If this works, it will narrow you down to what branch of the electrical system is causing the problem. It could be that something is under a heavy load, when you turn the key on the battery voltage drops enough that the relay drops out (opens up and clicks) once the load is gone the voltage comes up high enough that the relay closes again (another click). Might just be the grid heater load causing the problem on a low battery.



Sorry I can't be more help, but something is causing it and to isolate the problem might help point to it.

 

[BlackTxThunder]

Thanks TowPro, I'll get with Wes and see if this has been tried yet. This is a real hard one to say the least and my truck is in good hands with Wes, that's why I had it hauled all the way back to TX to his shop. I am just frustrated and not alone. It has been a ???? for everyone involved. Just throwing it back out there to see if anyone had some suggestions and/or answers. Greatly appreciate the input. Thanks.

 

[mykal41]

If the cables (neg) arc when connected you have a draw. Disconnect the neg terminals and jump a test light from the terminal to the batt. With the key off if the light is lit you have a draw. With test light lit pull fuses one by one until it goes out. Then you will have identified the draw.



If the batt was grounded during travel you might have a larger issue. First place to look for damage (melted something ) would be the fuses block itself. remove it and swap it for one you know works. You might as well use the relays and fuses from the donor truck as well.



Our trucks have lots of wires but not to many that carry a heavy electrical load.



Worst case scenario you shorted your ecm. But the drb would have told you that. I will poke around tomorrow and try to come up with some better ideas.

 

[MBergman]

Where in the DFW area are you? I have to work saturday, but I may be able to borrow a DRB from work. I seem to remember having a Liberty out in the shop that someone had tried to put a battery in backwards. The FCM and ABS modules were fried. The FCM is mounted to the bottom of the PDC/fuse box. I'll see what I can pry out of the techs tomorrow.

Marc

 

[DrDiesel]

You really can`t expect someone to diag. your problem over the Internet, can you.

The best someone could hope for would be someone else having the same type of problem. You need more info than the relays just click.

What relay`s click. Do they click one time or multiple times. What`s battery voltage, and what`s the voltage drop with the key in the start position.

What`s the voltage drop to the relay when it clicks.

To many question`s without solid answers equal`s a dart board game O Chance. I`m not trying to be a smart arse about this, just be advised it`s not a simple resolve to your type of problem. Hope you can find someone to help. Personally, I would double check all ground`s. This is the most common failure that`s overlooked.

 

[BlackTxThunder]

You really can`t expect someone to diag. your problem over the Internet, can you.

The best someone could hope for would be someone else having the same type of problem. You need more info than the relays just click.

What relay`s click. Do they click one time or multiple times. What`s battery voltage, and what`s the voltage drop with the key in the start position.

What`s the voltage drop to the relay when it clicks.

To many question`s without solid answers equal`s a dart board game O Chance. I`m not trying to be a smart arse about this, just be advised it`s not a simple resolve to your type of problem. Hope you can find someone to help. Personally, I would double check all ground`s. This is the most common failure that`s overlooked.

You really can`t expect someone to diag. your problem over the Internet, can you.

No DrDiesel not at all. That is why the thread title says, " HELP Need AuTo ElecTriCian in DFW ASAP!!!" But when your truck doesnt run for 7 months and no-one can seem to figure out what is wrong, you better start looking outside the box huh?

Just hoping from some suggestions as seen above or local help like MBergman offered. Appreciate all suggestions. MBergman I'll send you an email. If possible I'd like to meet Sunday or whenever you're available. I need to check w/Wes today on his schedule & availibility.

 

[TCDiesel]

This type of diagnostic is a company tech nightmare,first the vehicle is remove from one shop to another,OK you will need Bi-directional tools and scanner. Someone will need to check every relay,circuit,module,component,fuse,connection Sensor. ,Make sure you have rail pressure(Not) lift pump pressure. If you have rail pressure 500psi or more than check ALL injectors,connections,if you have voltage check (Fuel Control Valve) if valve checks out,than Replace Limiting Valve on rail (no known way to check this without replacement). eliminate everything on the ENGINE first,than move to the PDC (Power distribution Center) if this checks out go to the fuel control module,Here you will need a DRB III to check this module. If this module checks out ,Remove the PDC and replace. Always REMEMBER that the easy explanation tens to be the right one,start with the simple components and move up to the more complex ones.

 

[LMcCary]

Need electrical help

BlackTxThunder

Sounds like a ground problem or a ECM wire pinched by the repairs that you have done.

1. Batteries have been load tested and found ok 9. 6volts min @half of the CCA for 15 sec duration

2. Battery cables have no more than . 4 volt drop while cranking

3, ECM ground is hooked up, according to the wiring sch. it has three wires that goes into one and grounds on the body

4. Check all around the engine esp. where the repairs have been performed, looking for pinched wire loom.

5. After these tests, check the App power voltage (5volts) with the switch on, just to be sure the ECM has not lost partial ground. If . 5 volt less than spec or . 5 volt more then you have a wiring problem. If voltage is near 12 volts you either have a power wire shorted to the 5volt supply or have lost ground. Without ground the ECM cannot produce the lower voltages needed for operation.

These are some places to start, keep us posted on what you find.