Help No A/c Or Windows!

[SRT-6]

My 92 d350's power windows and a/c quit working suddenly yesterday can't seem to find the problem. Any suggestions?

 

[Philip]

Here is a link that covers close to the same problem. There is another link in that thread to some more troubleshooting that was done a while back.



You might have a bad switch. But you need to do a little troublshooting to find out.

 

[Lordsman]

Fusible-Links?

My '93 had a few corroded links that were ready to break apart. Seems the previous owner must have had a battery that let some acid go and it was getting to the links. On mine their under the hood, atop the driver side wheel well, next to the grid relays. Might want to check them if your '92 is like the '93.

 

[CAROLINA CUMMINS]

When you press the window buttons, does three of the message center lights come on? Mine did that, it was a fusible link, exactly where lordsman was talking about. it was pink or orange. it still does it occasionally. Good luck





Steve

 

[SRT-6]

THATS IT

Yes the message center lights come on when you press the window button,I will check that right now. Thanks!

 

[SRT-6]

NO luck

I checked all the fusible links,there all good. I'm still scratching my head.

 

[mopar2ya]

NO AC OR WINDOWS

HELLO, i joined the tdr because of this trouble with my ac and windows stopped working almost a year ago, i checked everything, last nite i got around to checking the fusiable links ,they checked out ok, the truck was running and i twisted the links at the point where the no 8 wire from the battery splits and to four wires and the truck died, another twist or two and the truck started again, so i pulled on the links and the links broke, what i found was the orange and white wire connect together,they were bad,replaced them and everything works great ac and windows, this was my trouble, maybe yours is the same, enjoy joe

 

[SZimmerman]

No AC/Windows

SRT, I have the exact problem about a month ago, and was tipped by a neighbor (electrical engineer !) to check the wire bundle from the door to the body. Two wraps of the electrical tape and I saw 8 of the wires were cracked or broken. 10 years in Fairbanks AK, does'nt help flexibility I guess. I am going to take the kickplate off and see if I can cut the bundle short in the door and cab and splice, splice, splice. First post for me, been reading for two years, so thanks for all the tips/links etc.

 

[SRT-6]

found it

It turned out to be the ignition switch.

 

[Philip]

It never turns out to be the cheaper items like everyone else told you about. Glad you got it fixed.

 

[SZimmerman]

SRT, could you let us in on how you found the ignition switch to be the problem ? By the way, I dont have much slack, the wire bundle goes right up under the dash, the kickplate is cosmetic and holds a vent with slide closer.

 

[Paychk]

If his was like mine, the mechanical part of the switch sometimes sticks in between the start and run positions and simple fooling around makes you go AhhhAAA!

 

[SRT-6]

dealer found it

I got tired of messing with it and took it to the dodge dealer. ya ya I know.

 

[Mel Fuelling]

My 93's PW and AC have ocassionally quit for a few minutes 3 or 4 times in the past 6 months. Never long enough in a place where I could stop and troubleshoot completely through to the problem. I had been carrying a new replacement ignition switch for over a year and decided to replace it even though I hadn't proved it was the culprit. It was a good thing I did. Two accessory wires showed evidence of a lot of heat near the connector and my PW run up and down a little faster now.



Now I'll just cross my fingers and hope that the switch was the

only culprit. I never did have any message lites come on.

 

[Greenleaf]

Da steeler!?!?. What they hose you fer?



I called 'huther day about a power steering pump drive coupling. They had NO clue



Ja know road kill is ready to serve... ... . It's already been GRILLED

 

[SZimmerman]

Still no BLOWER/PW"s

Six hours with heat gun, solder-shrink connectors and a lot of 12 and 16 ga wire. That is a pain pulling the door bundle from the side wall and then working it all back down again. The blower for heat/ AC still won't run and the power windows just make a faint buzz sound when you try to open them, evrything else works. I left the blower switch on and disconnected the "quick connect" to the blower motor and got 11. 5 volts, wondet if the blower is fried, definitely stumped at this time.

 

[Philip]

If your showing 12 volts at the connection for the blower motor and the motor is not running then most likey it is the motor itself.



Take a multi meter and put in on ohms setting. Touch the red lead to the motor power terminal and the other lead to a known good ground. If you are showing and open connection (no ohm readings) then the motor is bad. An electric motor is just a controlled ground. You should see a low ohm reading threw the power connection. The reading should be less than 20 ohms I would bet.