HELP! Rotor removal

[illflem]

Nick, did you even mess with the fuild?

 

[Red Rocket]

Ok, heres the deal, I torched off both the axle nuts, then the four after that to take out the stripped axle shaft were easy with a 12 point socket. The rotor/bearing assembly is a b**** to get off the truck, we broke a puller doing this. The bolts went over to the new rotor pretty easily, then it just took some practice to get the assembly back on the truck. Anti sieze and a couple new cotters finished that job. All I have left to do is eliminate the brake and abs warning lights in the dash, and replace the axle seals that went to the crapper in the process. All this is just details... .
If anyone wants advice on this task, contact me.

 

[Paul Herioux]

Just a little trick for removing the hub that I've learned doing this for a living.
After you remove the caliper, disconnect the tie rod from the steering knuckle so you can turn it from stop to stop easily. Remove the four twelve point head bolts and install two 14x1. 5x120mm bolts diagonally from each other in their place. I normally use the front lower and rear upper holes as it leaves more room for the next step. Using a large hammer(32oz shot filled ballpeen works nice) alternately smack each bolt til the bearing pops loose, normally takes three or four hits per bolt. This method does a lot less damage to the bearing than the slide hammer method called out in the service manual which normally leads to a destroyed bearing.
For all you rammers that have 4wal systems, be careful not to hit the wheel speed sensors.
I hope you find this useful.

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89 w250, 47rh trans, cleaned up exhaust, Dynomax bullet muffer, 3" lift