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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Help RUNAWAY!!

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Pusher Pump Question?

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 97 truck

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I put a 3K GSK kit on yesterday and all seemed fine. The RPMS were pretty low so I do not think they were adjusted correctly but with the idle screw I could bring it upto ~775 RPMS. It seemed to drive fine, then this morning about 45minutes into my commute the truck started accelerating with cruise control on. I popped it in nuetral and shut it down and got towed home ($111). Every time I start it, it immediatly revs 3K+ RPMS and has to be shutdown. I am about to go pull the GSK springs but can you guys think of anything else? Would too tight/loose on the GSK cause this? Governor arm lever?



HELP!



Zack
 
Did you have the springs installed through the plug on the side of the pump? Or throught the top of the pump?



If it was done done through the top then I would say to check and make sure the the governor lever isn't hung under the plate causing the runaway.



~Wes~
 
I tore it all apart the govenor lever is fine, the GSK springs all look fine, one seems a little tighter than the other and i had a very tiny lope in rpm that would go away, nothing excessive. The linkage all looks fine too. I am going to pull out all the GSK springs and reinstall going 2 clicks after the initial click, and making sure I did not miss any shims. The thing I am worried about if a shim or something somehow fell into the pump... I seriously hope that isnt the case, but like I said everything seems to turn freely with no problesm?!?



Zack
 
For the life of me I cannot get one of the retainers off!! I tightened it too much, after searching the same thing happened to another person. Ive tried needle nose pliers, flat heat screwdrivers, anything and everything with tons of brute force and i cant get the damn thing off!?!?! Anyone know of a trick or some special tool?
 
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OK heres the deal, I got the other GSK spring out WHAT A *****!! The stud it went on is bent!! It is pretty cockeyed in the bore, but not broken. The springs could barely move on it and were very difficult to get off. I really dont know what my options are at this point. I've tried gently prying the stud into the center of the bore, but it just bounces back to its cockeyed position. Anyone have any ideas or should I go ahead and spend another $100+ for a second tow upto Massdiesel.



Is that stud a removeable piece or does the injector pump have to come off?



Zack
 
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If the stud wasnt bent when you installed the springs, could you have dropped a shim or something in there to lock up the rotation and bend the stud? Thats all I can imagine what happened... definetly shouldnt be bent tho...



good luck



-j
 
The spring pressure sets the rpms, thats why we change them and shim them. Sounds like something got dropped in the pump to bend the studs. If the springs cant compress then that will make the rpms rise. How far they will rise I don't know. Every prob has different potential. I tightened the springs on my dad's truck and he got a little more performance but he needs the real deal.



Jordan
 
I was able to bend the stud straight and reinstall but I was stupid and did this job without measuring with the Vernier calipers. The truck runs ok now but I think the springs are a little loose and the throttle sticks everynow and then and I have to "tap" it to bring the rpms back down. Ill try to find some calipers after work to do it correctly... . I hope I didnt do any permanent damage.



Zack
 
Its been fixed my issues were a combintation of the springs not being tightened down to . 050" with vernier calipers like they should have been and the govenor lever needing to be adjusted a little bit. After pulling it apart and back together about 6 times I finally got it right... ;)



Zack
 
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