2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission HELP... Spongy brake pedal

[Bhale]

I just redid the brakes completly, pads, shoes, rotors and calipers from EGR. I also installed new rear wheel cylinders from a 3500. Flushed the system twice and blead the brakes twice and i real sure there is no air in the system but the symptons point to air in the lines. I have brakes but the pedal is real spongy and i can press it all the way to the floor. There is no point in the pedal travel where pedal pressure increases, rather it's a steady increase in the amount of force required but way spongy.



I checked the vacuum system like the service manual detailed and all is fine.



No warning lights on the dash other than the normal stuff at startup.



I performed several VERY hard stops from 50 mph to 0 and nothing will skid. After several of these in a 10 minute period, the front wheels and rotors are very very hot, too hot to touch.



If i back up fast and slam on the brakes the front won't lock up like it did in the past.



What have i done wrong?



HELP!



Brian

 

[HEMI®Dart]

I would say the master cylinder has an internal leak. Manually bleeding the brakes probably caused it. You probably would get a warning light though.



Make sure your rear shoes are adjusted. If they are not or just one is, you will have a crappy pedal.

 

[illflem]

Sounds like you've still got air somewhere. You used a vacuum bleeder right?

 

[Bhale]

Yep, vacuum bleeder and i did the gravity thing also.



How do i check to see if the master cylinder has a leak?

 

[Bhale]

Well, i replaced the master cylinder today and no change, still real spongy and i can put the pedal to the floor with a minimual amount of effort.



How do i bleed the RWAL valve? The service manual says to bleed it bu no instructions. Just crack the lines loose and push the pedal?