HELP! Trans Gurus!

[DavidShelton]

Lately, my 2004 48RE has been acting up. While driving at a steady freeway speed, 60-70mph, the trans acts like it "skips" or unlocks the converter for less than a second. It happens so fast, it's hard to nail down. Sometimes once or twice in a 45 minute drive, sometimes 20-30 times in the same drive. Still shifts OK. Tried looking at and cleaning all the wiring connections, re-wrapping them all. Nothing has helped. Thought it must be electrical related, so I bought all new solenoids, transducer, etc. for the trans. About time for a fluid change anyway.

I pulled the pan off this evening and stuck to the magnet is what looks like a piece of a Wavy-Snap Ring about 2 3/4" long. If I extend the curve out, it looks like it is approx. 5 1/2" Outside diameter, and measures . 080" thick and . 20" wide. Both ends look broke. Where could this have come from and ended up in the pan? Possibly the Overdrive unit?

 

[JLandry]

Sounds like it might be the overdrive clutch waved snap ring. It cushions the application of the clutch pack in the overdrive unit. Being broken would explain why you're sensing something wrong while in overdrive.



John L.

 

[DavidShelton]

Thanks. I saw that same page about 5 minutes ago. From looking at the manual, I should be able to remove the OD unit with the trans in the truck and replace the snap ring if nothing else is damaged?

 

[DavidShelton]

While the pan is off and the OD unit removed what should I do to improve trans durability?

 

[cerberusiam]

Shift kit, billet front servo, billet accumulator, billet front band strut and anchor are the basic upgrades without dropping the trans.

 

[DavidShelton]

Thanks. Should I go ahead and replace all the frictions and steels in the OD unit while it's out? After all, the truck has 306,000 miles on it.

 

[cerberusiam]

Probably would not be a bad idea. Once you disturb them they like to quit working.

 

[DavidShelton]

Got it out and apart. The snap ring was in 6 pieces, but all parts are accounted for. The OD Clutch pack (6 and 6) looks pretty worn, but the OD/Direct Clutch (11 and 12 single sided) pack looks great. Everything else looks good as far as I can tell. Anyone know what the replacement part numbers are for Alto red clutches and Kolene steels and where to buy? Are the single-sided plates available or do i have to do something else?
Cerberusiam and others, it is possible to re-assemble without the line-up tool shown in the manual? I'm not sure where to find one.

 

[fox]

You will have to have all the splines lined up to put it back on the intermediate shaft.

 

[cerberusiam]

Lining up the splines is a pain without the tool. If they aren't lined up pretty close it is impossible to get the OD unit back on. Transmission supply place should be able to get you the tool, cost is a question.

You can do the single sided or double side OD direct clutches, either will work. Not sure I woul use Red Eagles but definitely the Kolene steels as the stock steels atre really soft.

 

[DavidShelton]

Why would Red Eagles be a bad choice?

 

[cerberusiam]

Not really a bad choice. The Red eagles are more aggressive and grabby. They are going wear faster and hook harder that the high energy frictions. In a play truck they are fine. Towing I don't think they work as well and handle the heat like the Raybestos HE's do. More situational choice than anything.

 

[DavidShelton]

That does make sense. Thanks

 

[DavidShelton]

Got it back together today. New snap rings, frictions, and steels in the overdrive. Replaced OD solenoid, Transducer, GM solenoid setup, billet front servo, and band strut. Made a short test drive and everything seems good. Thanks to everyone for the info and talking me through it.
Oh, I did it without buying the spline tool. Cut a piece of . 080" aluminum the correct width to slip snugly inside the splines to keep them lined up. Got luck and everything lined up well.

 

[DavidShelton]

Darn it!!! All that work and parts and now under light throttle between 30-40mph it downshifts some times. Didn't do that before. Everything else seems fine. Shifts great under acceleration.

 

[JJPage]

TV Cable adjustment, here is a link to show how, scroll down to the middle of the page, you will see the bellcrank assembly under 24 valve heading.
http://www.dieselperformance.com/productManual/Dodge_Transmission_Instructions1.pdf

Here is another, cerb posted a good diagram of the adjustment in the 8th post down.
https://www.turbodieselregister.com...rky-transmission&highlight=jerky+transmission

 

[DavidShelton]

I didn't change the TV cable adjustment. The transmission still shifts at the very same points. If the TV adjustment was off now, wouldn't that have changed?

 

[cerberusiam]

You changed a lot of other things so adjustments may be in order.

 

[JJPage]

Is it shuttling between 3rd to 2nd under light throttle? Mine does this, but between 26 to 29 mph under light throttle, used to do it under 35 mph. You may try readjusting the front band again...

I know you changed the governor solenoid and sensor, this is what usually causes the shuttle shifting at light throttle, but TV pressure is very touchy. I was able to adjust it out with the TV cable after I changed out my solenoid/sensor. Another component that may affect shifting is the APPS, these issues are hard to isolate.

I'm sure cerb will check back in, he will be able to help you in a better manner than me. Good job on the rest of your work, I'm sure you will get this corrected also.

Yes, knew cerb would be close by!

 

[DavidShelton]

So I should adjust the cable so it shifts 2-3 at 2800rpm at full throttle?