Help! Truck has no power at WOT

[CIverson]

Does the TST plug into the fuel pressure connector? I had a similar thing happen and my fuel pressure connector had come unplugged.

Nope, it's not a pressure box so it dosen't need that connection.

 

[CIverson]

Ok, so I was lucky enough to get a page for diagnosing the actuator valve from someone else on the board. It basicaly stated that any fuel coming out means it needed replacement.



I found out however that the fuel I was seeing was coming up through the return line instead of out the valve itself.



My other guess is the fuel control actuator. The more I think about it the more this makes sense. My trucks idle goes up and down (waves) when cold and warming up. Also about a week before this started happening, I was getting a surging at highway speeds, that I hadn't gotten before.



Anyway, cummins and dodge can only get it with the CP3 pump. If I can find it through bosch and it's not too expensive I'm gonna try one, otherwise it's going to the dealer.

 

[JStieger]

Anyway, cummins and dodge can only get it with the CP3 pump. If I can find it through bosch and it's not too expensive I'm gonna try one, otherwise it's going to the dealer.

There was a TSB on the FCA and DC had its own P/N. I think Tomeygun posted the TSB link.

 

[milehigh.o.]

I would say that it might be a bad injector. My dad just had this problem with a duramax. He was towing his boat and everytime he went up a hill and needed the power it just chocked. I thought it might be the trans. slipping and after taking it to the dealer they show he had a bad injector.

 

[CIverson]

Found it. It's 129$. I'm tempted to try it, but I already went and made an appt. for next week to get my truck fixed.



Looks like it's time to pull it and see if it rattles. In the FSM it said if you pull it and doesn't rattle it's bad.

 

[CIverson]

Talk about a kick to the jewels... ... ... I go and change the AFE kit out for the stock air box, and the stock boost elbow before bringing it in. I have an Appt. this week.



Anyway I had been driving for the last day with out inducing the problem and now it won't do it anymore.



I put the AFE back on to see if that was the problem (didn't think so, new filter is only 1 month old). Still ok. It does seem low on power though, hard to tell.



So now I have to bring it to the dealer and I won't be able to replicate the situation.

 

[milehigh.o.]

I have money on the intake. Maybe something was wrong and you were getting to much air induced.

 

[GWoody]

Found it. It's 129$. I'm tempted to try it, but I already went and made an appt. for next week to get my truck fixed.



Looks like it's time to pull it and see if it rattles. In the FSM it said if you pull it and doesn't rattle it's bad.

What's FSM, factory service manual?? I can't find in my manual anything about rattle on this valve.

 

[CIverson]

What's FSM, factory service manual?? I can't find in my manual anything about rattle on this valve.

pg 14-85. I believe it's the FSM I d/l'ed it online.



I decided not to do it, after reading the instructions again. It seems that the bolts holding it in are torque to yeild.





FUEL CONTROL ACTUATOR



DESCRIPTION



The Fuel Control Actuator (FCA) is located at the

rear of the high-pressure, fuel injection pump.



OPERATION



The Fuel Control Actuator (FCA) is an electronically

controlled solenoid valve. The ECM controls the

amount of fuel that enters the high-pressure pumping

chambers by opening and closing the FCA based on a

demanded fuel pressure. When the FCA is opened,

the maximum amount of fuel is being supplied to the

fuel injection pump. Any fuel that does not enter the

injection pump is directed to the overflow valve. The

overflow valve regulates how much excess fuel is used

for lubrication of the pump and how much is returned

to the fuel tank through the drain manifold.

An audible click from the FCA is normal when

operating the key to either the ON or OFF positions.



REMOVAL



The Fuel Control Actuator (FCA) is located at the

rear of the high-pressure, fuel injection pump (Fig. 13).



(1) Clean FCA mounting area at rear of fuel injection

pump with an evaporative-type cleaner.



(2) Disconnect electrical connector at FCA.



(3) Remove 2 FCA mounting bolts.



(4) Remove FCA from injection pump.



(5) After removal, inspect FCA for corrosion or

damage. Shake the FCA and listen for a rattle. If

FCA does not rattle, replace it.

INSTALLATION



(1) Install new o-rings to the Fuel Control Actuator

(FCA).



(2) Lubricate o-rings with clean, light grease.



(3) Using new mounting bolts, install FCA into

injection pump. Tighten the micro-encapsulated bolts

in two stages. First to 3 N·m (27 in. lbs. ), and then to

7 N·m (62 in. lbs. ) torque. Do not pause more than

two minutes between tightening stages as bolts may

lose their ability to retain torque.



(4) Ensure FCA is mounted flush to injection

pump.



(5) Connect electrical connector to FCA.



(6) Start engine and observe for leaks.

 

[GWoody]

I think my manual came out before they decided to make this FCA a servicable part, used to be if this was bad you had to change the complete pump. Odd thing about the instructions is there are 3 bolts that hold this in.

 

[CIverson]

I think my manual came out before they decided to make this FCA a servicable part, used to be if this was bad you had to change the complete pump. Odd thing about the instructions is there are 3 bolts that hold this in.

Mopar is the only place that you can get this part from, they don't even list in in their parts books, I only found the P/N from a TSB post by Tomeygun. Bosch, and cummins only sell it as part of the inj. pump.

 

[JStieger]

FCA electrical connector

What's the secret to removing the FCA electrical connector? Back when I had my fuel system problems and DC didn't offer this part separately, I wanted to check it per the shop manual procedure. I tried to undo the electrical connector and it wouldn't budge. Note that I am very prone to breaking stuff with just a bit of pressure sometimes :-laf !

 

[CIverson]

What's the secret to removing the FCA electrical connector? Back when I had my fuel system problems and DC didn't offer this part separately, I wanted to check it per the shop manual procedure. I tried to undo the electrical connector and it wouldn't budge. Note that I am very prone to breaking stuff with just a bit of pressure sometimes :-laf !

I just pushed on the button and pulled back on it. It came off for me.



I know what you mean on braking stuff though. I cracked part of the lock on the cam sensor plug taking the TST off in cold weather.



As a side note I think I figured out what my problem really was. My AFE filter sock! I put it back on and the truck was still driving fine, but I noticed the filter minder was sucked down. I took the sock off and it didn't get sucked down on my last trip. So now it's in the washing machine getting a quick clean.



I still can't believe that sock got so clogged it hindered air flow that much. Combined w/ the boost fitting the turbo must have been sucking a little more air, causing it to starve for air.



Anyway, still going to the dealer to get a once over, as I have a surge at cold idle, and mileage seems down quite a bit. If I didn't have the garage full I would put the tst back on to see if it's still fine with it, but it won't be empty till next week. It's amazing how anemic 305hp can feel after your used to running the tst on 6/7 for so long.

 

[JStieger]

I just pushed on the button and pulled back on it. It came off for me.



I know what you mean on braking stuff though. I cracked part of the lock on the cam sensor plug taking the TST off in cold weather.

The problem for me was that I pushed on the button and it didn't even budge so I just left it at that! How was your old FCA? Did it rattle? Do you have a picture to post by any chance?

 

[CIverson]

I never took it out, since I had already made an appt. w/ the dealer, and the bolts seem to be torque to yeild. I'm hoping the dealer will replace this since I have a surge at cold idle, and there is a TSB concerning this symptom, which says to replace the FCA.



Sometimes, if the button does not depress, try pushing in on the connector first, then pushing again. I doubt you will break it by pinching the connector. It doesn't have a lock on it like the cam or crank sensor's do.



If they don't I'm probably going to buy the one they have and replace mine anyway.

 

[ARARAR]

no pwr

What is your boost pressure?

 

[TMarsh]

I Have An 04. 5 Doing The Same Thing With Tst. Changed Releif Valve On Rail, Rail Pressure Sensor, And Rail Pressure Control Soleniod On The Cp3. None Of This Cured It. I Have A P0148 Fuel Delivery Malfunction Code. Occording To Dc Diagnosis Literature The Only Other Two Components That Could Be Involved Are The Ecm Which Was Replaced Twenty Thousand Miles Ago, And The Cp3. Ecm Was Just Flashed 1 Week Ago (fuel Milage Software) After The Problem Was Occuring. B/c Of This I Assume The Ecm Is Ok. Since It Runs Good Cold Real Good But No Power Warm I Suspect The Cp3. Traditional Injection Pumps When Wore Would Run Good Cold But With Engine Warm They May Not Even Start. swapped parts from buddy's 05. ecm replaced with harness cuz of lightning strike

 

[CIverson]

Forgot to update this thread, but my problem was the AFE filter sock. It didn't look too bad, but it was starving the motor for air.