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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Help - VP44 Replacement Anxiety

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I am contemplating doing my own VP44 replacement. I’ve read many threads on the subject and reviewed the Chrysler Service manual for my truck. There are a few things that still trouble me; so I’ve decided to ask for some answers from you guys.



I know that the engine should be rotated until the keyway is at the 12 o’clock position. My question is can the keyway fall into the gear housing even if it’s at the 12 o’clock position? This applies to removal as well as install. Is the keyway hard to place into the pump shaft? If it’s not in there correctly, then maybe it could be knocked out during the install. The reason I ask is that I read one thread whereby the person indicated that they had the keyway at the 12 o’clock position but it still came out into the gear housing. I think this was during the removal.



As regards the pump nut and washer, are those relatively easy to remove from the shaft? It would seem to me that, if anything fell into the gear housing, it would one of those items. It doesn’t appear like either one would be hard to grab hold of to remove.



I have read numerous threads whereby people who have done this job say they used super glue to hold the keyway in place or they used grease to do the job. According to my service manual, and I quote, “The machined tapers on both injection pump shaft and injection pump gear must be absolutely dry, clean and free of any dirt or oil film. This will insure proper gear-to-shaft tightening. ” Since the keyway is mounted in the machined taper of the pump shaft I don’t see being able to use anything other than some sort of glue on the bottom of the keyway.



I’m sure the injector pump is a bit heavy so when removing, is it easy to nick the injection pump shaft on the gear housing during removal? That’s a no, no according to my service manual. I’m 63 years old and not quite as agile or as strong as I used to be. If I decide to do this job myself I’ll probably have a few beers to take the edge off.



One last thing - I‘ve been looking at the FPCM 9-way connector. How do you remove it? I see a couple of tiny screws; are those something you have to take out? I’m looking at it from the side and the connector appears to be at the back.



I would appreciate any thoughts on this. Before anyone suggests that I review the Diesel-Dan videos on Putfile.com. I have a dial-up connection on my pc and viewing videos on the web is an extremely slow process.
 
Hi billmac, diesel dan did this video, it is in several parts and starts here, it will answer your questions and give you a step by step, and good pointers.
YouTube - VP-44 Install and Removal Series 1 of 5
Good luck

Edit// sorry i didn't read the rest of your post before i jumped, maybe you could go to the public library and view it? Or get somebody to burn it to a dvd>
 
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You can leave the back three injector lines install and just push them against the block to slide the pump out. I did mine at 62. 7 years. SNOKING
 
I had my local Chrysler dealer replace mine when it went out. They have a great Cummins guy (the only person besides me who touches my truck). I didn't feel that I had the time/knowledge to do it myself. When it was all said and done, it cost me less that $200 to swap pumps and replace injectors. I think it took him less than 3hrs to do both.



FWIW



Matt
 
My pump came with a key and it was press fit in the shaft pretty tight. I would have had to use a tool to remove it. The old pump key was also fairly tight. My install was straight forward. Just knowing the key can fall out and taking the necessary precautions is probably all you need to do.
 
Don't worry about the pump jumping out. There is a thick O ring on it that will help hold it in place until you wiggle it to get it out, be sure to lubricate the new O ring a little when you install the new pump. I needed a small torch to heat the gear just a little to get the gear off the pump shaft. If I remember correctly the electrical connection on the pump snaps into place, should be a tab on both sides that you just squeeze to release it. Once you get the old one off set it next to the new one, you will need to turn the shaft on the new to match the old before installing it. My first time took about 3 hours.
 
Thanks for the replies and helpful hints. I feel better about doing the job myself although I think I will wait until it gets warmer - at least on a consistent basis.





You can leave the back three injector lines install and just push them against the block to slide the pump out. I did mine at 62. 7 years. SNOKING



Thanks SNOKING! I won't let my age stand in the way. Besides I am in pretty good shape for an old codger. :-laf
 
Billmac1,



I have changed mine 5 times. The first time is a little scary. Remember to pull out the 2lower mount bolts on the mounting plate before you pull the four attaching the pump to the timing cover.



Yes, alignment of the keyway can be an issue. I usually put the two pumps side by side and set the alignment.



Yes, the key can come out and fall in the timing cover. That happened to me once, so I got the education of pulling the timing cover.



The pump is not very heavy at all. You carry it with one hand easily.



If you watch the video and follow the publication, you'll be fine.
 
Billmac1,



I have changed mine 5 times. The first time is a little scary. Remember to pull out the 2lower mount bolts on the mounting plate before you pull the four attaching the pump to the timing cover.



Yes, alignment of the keyway can be an issue. I usually put the two pumps side by side and set the alignment.



Yes, the key can come out and fall in the timing cover. That happened to me once, so I got the education of pulling the timing cover.



The pump is not very heavy at all. You carry it with one hand easily.



If you watch the video and follow the publication, you'll be fine.





Thanks for the info. As I mentioned in my original post, my computer has a dial-up internet connection. Trying to watch videos, i. e. from Putfile. Com is an extremely slow process. I have copied numerous "how to" threads on the subject and I have my service manual - hopefully that will be enough.
 
If you have the time to wait, I'd be happy to burn the video to disk for you and drop it in the mail. Depends upon how urgent your situation is.
 
My first pump swap took me 2 hours and that was with alot of fooling around. My best advise is to remove the rear engine slinger to get to the #6 injection line.
 
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