Help!!!! wheel bearings!!!!

[rbattelle]

put down that purse and hit that thing, use a 10lb, dont be scared to damage the bearing, a couple of good hits and it will come off, try to avoid too much heat as this will damage the ball joint boots, or try the puller and tapping on the hub at the same time, i have changed a few and after learning the first one, they are all alot easier... .

So you're saying just put some tension on the hub and whack the side of it with a big hammer? Or do you just go to town whacking it on the side with a heavy hammer?



On edit: Quad4x4 got back to me. They have the OEM hub/bearing assemblies... for $343 each! Yikes, the OEM are cheaper ($251). I replied and asked them if they were any different than OEM.



-Ryan

 

[gathomas]

Pain!

Guys,

I,m adding my 2cs here because I hear a lot of "pain" and frustration coming from this post. My object here is to be helpful. Not, I repeat Not to sell you anything.



My current Ram truck is 2wd, but I used to own a 1979 W150 4x4, so I know a little bit about this "pain" and frustration concerning hubs & Bearings. As they say "been there, done that".



My truck is looking at 205,000 on the OD, soon I'll be either repacking or replacing wheel bearings. When I do, you can be assured that I'm going to use Synthetic Grease (Amsoil product).



I've done my homework on this subject. When you consider that demanding applications (all commercial and military aircraft, wind Generators,industrial equipment,etc) specify Synthetic grease for bearings and pivot points, there is a reason, superior performance! under demanding conditions.



Now you can choose any lubricant you heart desires, but for about $5. 00 a 14 oz cartridge, I really don't think cost is a factor here.

Especially if that pocket change will eliminate the "PAIN".



Keep in mind here guys my object here is not to sell you anything, I'm just trying to help you with your "pain".



Remember, a mind is like a parachute, it any works when its open.



Glen

 

[RNewkirk]

Im working on my "03" 3500 trying to get to the U-joints as well ,Im running in to the same problems , I thought I would replace the bearing with some new ones but NAPA and another part store cant get them,the dealer wants $405. 15 for one ! Wow ! Is there a lower price out there ??

 

[rbattelle]

Im working on my "03" 3500 trying to get to the U-joints as well ,Im running in to the same problems , I thought I would replace the bearing with some new ones but NAPA and another part store cant get them,the dealer wants $405. 15 for one ! Wow ! Is there a lower price out there ??

allchryslerparts.com has them for $251 each.



-Ryan

 

[BGarofalo]

I just did my axle u-joints in my 03 3500 dually a few weeks ago. Did both sides in a little over an hour. The best way to do it ,in my opoinion at least,and save your bearings is to do the socket and extention trick with the power steering. It will push the bearing out pretty easy. Those u-joint caps get pretty siezed in there also. I just took a torch and cut the cross out ond beat the caps through. It saves time if u got a torch. Anti-seize the stuff too. It helps for later disassembly.

 

[ASchwartz]

I did my passenger side yesterday. I loosened the hub bearing bolts and wiggled the hub bearing out with my hands. There was no need for a hammer or heat.



Avi

 

[rbattelle]

I did my passenger side yesterday. I loosened the hub bearing bolts and wiggled the hub bearing out with my hands. There was no need for a hammer or heat.



Avi

Do they salt the roads where you live? If not, that might explain the ease of removal.



-Ryan

 

[bighammer]

Well, I just got done replacing my right axle U-joint. I was at the point of giving up and came in and read some of the posts about how to get the hub/bearing assy. off and was able to do it with the socket and short extension against the axle tube end.

Everything seemed against me-- Wheel was frozen on, caliper bolts were VERY tight, (broke a socket) and event the stupid little speed sensor was tough to get out.

 

[ASchwartz]

Do they salt the roads where you live? If not, that might explain the ease of removal.



-Ryan

No salt in sunny California. It may have helped that the tech that replaced my front axle a few weeks ago did most of the hard work. I think he even forgot to torque the axle nut down to the proper specs resulting in the bearing going out.



Avi

 

[ACoffel]

If I'm going to this much trouble to remove the factory junk , I'll be installing the

freespin hubs in their place! I know their pricey, but I think they'll pay for themselves in the longrun. Peace of mind comes at a price!

 

[rbattelle]

I'm in the process of fighting with my drivers side hub bearing assembly. It's my first one. So far I've tried tons of PB Blaser penetrating fluid, pounding the bolts from the back side, and pounding the outer flange (where the wheel studs sit) with a 14-lb sledge (carefully, of course).



Nothing yet. I'm afraid of the power steering method.



Ryan

 

[bighammer]

Just a caution to Ryan and others... .

I used the power steering & socket/extention trick and I swear my steering wheel is slightly off-center since. I'm pretty sure I wasted my passenger side lower ball joint in the process. I could feel some play as I put it all back together that I hadn't noticed before. (It does make me wonder if the guys doing the burnouts are stressing a lot more than just tires & drivetrain)

I would think DC and/or AA would provide like a couple threaded holes someplace -- Remove a plug, then crank in a bolt to press them off.

 

[rbattelle]

I would think DC and/or AA would provide like a couple threaded holes someplace -- Remove a plug, then crank in a bolt to press them off.

What? And make things easier for maintenance? NEVER!



Ryan