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Help with 06 EGT issues

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windshield gauge pod

Clutch for an 05

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I really appreciate all the replies everyone. To fill you in, I installed a free flow exhaust today, and was going to pick up an Edge EZ tomorrow. Does this box have boost fooling, since it doesn't appear that you can use a boost elbow like I used in the past. Should I be looking for a different brand of box maybe? I don't really need a huge HP/Torque gain box, as all this truck ever does is pull fairly heavy loads, so I assume I wouldn't be able to use higher power levels anyway. I guess I'm hoping all this with the AFE intake will help temps.



I think you should hold off on the Edge for a bit. Make changes and observe for a while. How many miles on this truck?
 
I have a mbrp with a test pipe I have a afe stage 2 proguard 7 on it all ready I'm going to get a scb from peter and a fass system. the way you guys are talking you can even all 80hp with out a clutch or fuel system?



Not at all. I have the TST set on 1/1 all the time because I need a new clutch but need the stock one to last as long as it can. You also have to consider that almost all of the vendors you read about here are talking power at the wheels. 80HP at the wheels is actually what at the flywheel? I'm not too good at math.
 
OK, something is still not making sense to me. According to the first law of thermodynamics, heat (energy) can not be made to disappear. So, where is this heat going? If it is going into the "cooling system", wouldn't I expect to see higher readings at the temperature gauge? I am not. Maybe my temperature gauge is not scaled enough to see these increases or it is broken, or the heat is going somewhere that can not or is not being metered...



The extra heat, or energy, is being bled off by the cooling system and used up in making power. The coolant gauge is a fake in these trucks and you will never see the differences on the gauge. :)
 
OK, something is still not making sense to me. According to the first law of thermodynamics, heat (energy) can not be made to disappear. So, where is this heat going? If it is going into the "cooling system",
Bingo!
that's the right question!
Energy can not be destroyed but all we can do is to change it's state. Any internal combustion engine does change the state of energy. A small part of the energy contained in the fuel is trasformed into kinetic energy, the most part is wasted under the form of heat. Thus far...

What does that have to do with the "advanced" injection timing?
Simple, a correctly timed ( injection event, WHEN the fuel is injected ) diesel engine does it's job with a higher efficency. Thus, more % of the energy contained in the fuel is trasformed into kinetic energy instead of heat. Result: better mileage and higher combustion chamber pressure.

Sure enough, a retarded injection event provides less combustion temps, less combustion chamber pressure, less efficency, less NOx.

If we want to re-establish the efficency grade of the engine we'll want to get the correct timing back. On average, the modern diesel engines are retarded by 1. 5-2. 0 degrees for emissions. Bumb the timing up to where it should be if emissions would not be a concern... voilà.

One thing is setting the timing where it should be for the engine's efficency.
ANOTHER thing is over advancing the timing. That results in power loss and abnorm combustion temps...

Gentleman, I have done my homework extensivley. My toy does not over advance the timing. ;)

Makes sense?

Marco

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The extra heat, or energy, is being bled off by the cooling system and used up in making power. The coolant gauge is a fake in these trucks and you will never see the differences on the gauge. :)

By fake, I'm learning that means the computer is manipulating the gauge. Right? So there is "an amount" of heat increase and pressure in combustion that is imperceptible with my current monitoring capabilities. Would a cylinder head temperature gauge and an after market engine temperature gauge be able to measure these differences? I have an extra 3 gauge pod :)

BTW - Marco, thanks for the input here!
 
Thanks Marco, Correct timing = more power from the same amount of fuel. Heat is given off as it goes from a high pressure to a lower pressure, that is why there is a exhaust temp drop in the turbo. That heat is turned into energy to turn the turbine wheel. Same as the combustion cycle, as the high pressure at near TDC the heat is given up and turned in energy. So with more timing (to a point) more heat is turned into energy.

As far as coolant temps go, engine temps are controlled by the thermostat, you would NEVER see a temp change, the thermostat would just open more to let more water into the engine.
 
Let's talk thermostats

06's have a 190 degree thermostat. No other one is available in my area. My 06 warms quickly to that 190. That means my egts climb quickly. When I hit the bottom of a grade I am already at 190 degrees. Add a 95 degree day and a heavy load... Factory says 190 is fully open at 207 degrees.



I only see a small movement in my gauge in the dash. Don't think your computer is fooling anything.



I removed my thermostat last week before I began my vacation. . pulling in 85 degrees this week my dash guage just barely moves off the second mark on the left. My a/c air is much cooler... I don't have an egt guage but I would betcha my egts are cooler. My engine has not missed a lick. With a 190 we don't see the whole picture. If we had 160 or 180 thermos we would see the temps up and down to match our egts ups and downs.
 
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06's have a 190 degree thermostat. No other one is available in my area. My 06 warms quickly to that 190. That means my egts climb quickly.
I don't see a relationship to water and exhaust gas temperatures. My EGT is 200 after a few seconds in the morning. Once out the driveway and down the block they are where they average the rest of the drive ~500-600. So I don't think a 200 degree difference in water temperature would have ANY impact on EGT.
 
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