Help with 93 injector pump

[dmhollister]

Hello all, My father is having some issues with his stock '93 350 5sp. with 196,000 miles.



He says that it idles fast most of the time, but there are times where it idles normal. Sometimes when he starts and it is idling fast it drops back to normal. He also has experienced some loping when first shut down. He has taken the truck to both the local dodge dealer and another mechanic that he trusts and they are stumped. He has replaced the lift pump and the problem still is there.



The truck runs fine at highway speeds and has plenty of power but his MPG has dropped. Both the dodge garage and the other mechanic are thinking it is a bad injection pump and want $2,500 to replace.



The question are these symptoms leading to the pump replacement or are there other things to look for before we replace the pump. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks Doug

 

[Wiredawg]

Can't help much but to suggest taking it to Cummins... they are best qualified to troubleshoot. If he gets Powermasters ($29) he can save 10% on all parts, labor, filters and oil.



Wiredawg

 

[Paychk]

Go here:



http://www.diesel.org/pubs/directory/us_service_member_list.htm



And find a shop in your area and talk with them. Even a complete rebuild of the pump shouldn't run more than $800. If you remove and install yourself you'll save a bundle.



Also they'll be able to pinpoint what the problem is... does sound like it needs a rebuild though.



PS Welcome to the forum!

 

[NIsaacs]

Make sure he is not using alcohol based fuel additives, such as "Heat". They will not mix with diesel fuel. When the alcohol reaches the pump, they will idle fast and or not want to shut off.





"NICK"

 

[Greenleaf]

I have found that air can become admitted into the supply system intermittently. It will do strange things to the function of the injection pump. It can often be a fuel pick-up problem as well. Both of these senarios have occured to members.



The best methgod I have found to diagose a pump is that if it has good power and operates normally then all of a sudden you loose throttle response/the pump takes on a mind of it's own... . then it's the pump.



It can become a fine line sometimes between a $800. 00 repair and a 25. 00 repair. I have been there and dun that and never like to have to make that call.



I just sent out a pump for rebuild after spending hours/days troubleshooting all other avenues. It would loose all throttle response/control momentaraly.



-S

 

[dmhollister]

The only additive he used was power service and he recently changed the fuel filter. Thanks for the posts, at least we have a direction to go in. D

 

[mysteryman]

ve pump problems

Take the fuel shut off selonoid out and look and see if there are any small metal filings on it... . If there is STOP driving it and remove the pump and take it to the fuel shop right away to be overhauled... .



They can also break a hinge pin in the governor that will cause the throttle/governor lever inside to hang up... .



I am assuming that you have already checked that throttle cable and kick down cable are not sticking... If you live in the rust belt and have driven the truck in salted roads it could just be a sticking cabel..... The cables should have little or no drag when moved by hand with both ends disconnected...



There has been a guy selling rebuilt VE pumps on ebay for 500 to 700 this past few months... . I spoke to him and learned that the pumps came from a rebuilder that had retired and had sold him all his rebuilt pumps that were on the shelves.....



The VE pumps are not hard to put on yourself ... . You will need to get a good steering wheel puller to get the gear off..... The VE uses a keyway...

Often times it will be loose in its slot and drop out..... :{ I just make sure the key is pointing up before I pull the pump out. Then line up the pin in the cam.....



Check out the other posts on ve pumps here on the site... . There has been a lot written on the subject... Pm me if you get into trouble . I will walk you threw it over the phone... . Read the FACTORY Dodge manual before you get started... ///Good luck

Hello all, My father is having some issues with his stock '93 350 5sp. with 196,000 miles.



He says that it idles fast most of the time, but there are times where it idles normal. Sometimes when he starts and it is idling fast it drops back to normal. He also has experienced some loping when first shut down. He has taken the truck to both the local dodge dealer and another mechanic that he trusts and they are stumped. He has replaced the lift pump and the problem still is there.



The truck runs fine at highway speeds and has plenty of power but his MPG has dropped. Both the dodge garage and the other mechanic are thinking it is a bad injection pump and want $2,500 to replace.



The question are these symptoms leading to the pump replacement or are there other things to look for before we replace the pump. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks Doug

 

[dmhollister]

Thanks for all the posts. We are not in the salt belt and the cables sticking are not a problem I don't think put it is one more place to check. Thanks for the PM offer mysteryman but in order to do that Father would have to bring the dodge out of the mountains, my internet is much faster and closer then his is. thanks Doug

 

[DonTX]

Mysteryman

I am missing something in pump pulling. I thought you had to put the gear in the position of the pin in the dimple to remove, you say to put it so the key is up, that makes sense. Are you saying that you can turn the gear AFTER you remove the pump? Is there a VE Pump removal thread somewhere I can browse? I really don't want to mess it up.

 

[guava]

I think all the instructions say/use the term for top dead center (TDC) as a standard. In this particular case, many have learned that having the key in the up position prevents it from falling into the case and causing a bunch more work. Can help you on the instructions. The pinned threads at the top are the best info I think.

 

[dmhollister]

Go here:



http://www.diesel.org/pubs/directory/us_service_member_list.htm



And find a shop in your area and talk with them. Even a complete rebuild of the pump shouldn't run more than $800. If you remove and install yourself you'll save a bundle.



Also they'll be able to pinpoint what the problem is... does sound like it needs a rebuild though.



PS Welcome to the forum!

Well to update on the situation, my father-in-law took the truck to Pueblo injector and found out that the pump needs to be rebuilt. They quoted him $1,800 for the R/R and rebuild. The next closest shop wanted $2,500. Thanks to all for the information and directions.