Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Help with brakes on 2001, 3500

[MFranz]

Im checking the brakes on my 4x4 2001 3500. I got to the point at where I want to remove the caliper pin bolts. The

manual shows what appears to be a standard bolt but after jacking up the truck and taking off the wheel I find what looks to be a star type bolt. Does anyone know what size this might be. Im thinking of buying just the one size instead of a complete set. The manual also states to remove

the caliper brake hose bolt. A friend of mine tells me that he doesnt do this. That he just supports the caliper with wire to take the pressure off of the brake hose. I was hoping that this would be acceptable as I didnt want to deal with the brake fluid yet since I am hopefully only dealing with the pads at this time This is my first time doing brakes and would appreciate any input. Truck has 60,000 miles and this is the first time the brakes have been done. I have bought Premium brake Pads from NAPA. The discs appear to be smooth with no unusual wear and Im not sure what life is left in the existing pads.



Thanks

Mike

 

[CJ Lagos]

I think the torx head is a T40 or T45. I never disconnect the brake line, just put the caliper on the upper control arm and use some zip ties.

 

[MFranz]

Brakes

Thanks C. J.

The torx fitting is aT45. I bought the set at Sears for $44.

Not cheap. It was a little late in the afternoon but I did get the bolts out. Was having a hard time getting the caliper

off. Im working on the front brakes and the manual says to

pull back at the top of the caliper. It comes loose but doesnt

seem to want to come off. Ran out of time so I put it back togeather and will try this weekend. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Take Care

Mike

 

[Alphacowboy]

you have to pry on them a little. there is a little thin metal clip hold ing it in place... if you look at it, you will see what I am talking about. I use a Big Screwdriver usually to pry it out. works everytime.

 

[MFranz]

Brakes

Alpha,

I saw the clips you were talking about and I thought that might be the case. Thanks for the info. Ill give It a try this weekend. You would think for the $100 bucks I paid for the manuals that they would be little more informative

Thanks Again

Mike

 

[Alphacowboy]

no problem! Also, how old are your calipers? I just replaced mine on my 2000 with 100k+ miles on them. the Driverside caliper was catching and just about caused me to loose my new rotors I had put on a month or so ago. Just an FYI, they are not cheap by anymeans, but if your pads are not evenly worn, just spend the $70+ a side and repalce those sucks while your at it!

 

[ntillm01]

The little ridge of rust on the outside can keep a caliper from sliding out nice. You'll need to compress the piston back into the caliper anyway so grab a c-clamp. Put one footpad on the back of the caliper. Put the screw footpad in the half-moon part of the outer half of the caliper to put pressure on the back of the outer pad. Crank it down until you give it enough wiggle room to rotate it out of the caliper bracket.



You don't have to remove the line unless you are replacing the caliper. The service manual procedure was written with that assumption.



Big Note: If your brake fluid reservoir is full, you'll need to get some of it out of there before you compressthe piston back into the caliper. Otherwise, you push fluid back up the line and it overflows... not good for the paint below.

 

[hpyman123]

Front Brakes

When you collapse the calipers you ned to loosen the bleed screw so you don't force old dirty brake fluid back into your ABS system. Also even though your rotors are free from grooves you should take them to a brake place and have them turned enough to put a new surface on them. If you don't turn them you'll burn a glaze on your new pads and make them squeal. Turning usually costs about 10-15 bucks each and it will also true the rotors so you don't get any feedback in the in the brake pedal.