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Need some help guys... . I had Auto-Meter Boost and Pyrometer and a Westach (mech. ) fuel pressure gauges installed today. (I just read where the mech. fuel gauge is NOT a good idea--just my luck!!!) The guy that installed them said my lift pump was gone so I ordered another to be in later this week. Here,s my problem, I don't have ANY fuel pressure at all!!! What give's... And could someone tell me how to read these things :--) I'm not quiet sure what there readings should be!!!

Truck seems to run fine, no problems like I read in other posts. .

120,000 miles.



1998. 5 24 VALVE, SLT, EDGE chip, 4" exhaust, 4. 10 RE, Firestone Air bags, Stage 2 clutch,White

UPGRADED STANDARD transmission

2001 ALFA GOLD 35FT TRIPLE AXLE "ANIMAL HOUSE"
 
Mechanical fuel pressure gauges are not bad, they are actuallymore trustworthy. It's usually the isolators that cause the problems. I would be suspicious that you have a gauge/isolator problem if you have 0 fuel pressure in any condition. I'm not a 24 valve guy but that sounds suspicious.



As for the other two, look for 6-700° empty cruise with 5-7 psi boost. Keep WOT egt's below 1250° and what are you seeing for max boost?



-Scott
 
I thought all the westach's were electrical? You should be seeing fuel pressure, lift pump or not. There is fuel flowing if your truck is running. I'd double check the install, start removing fittings if you have too. There's blockage somewhere.
 
Thanks for the info. I looked it over again today and found nothing but I'm kinda thinking a bad connection at the gauge. . Although the guy who installed them should have known there was a problem. Maybe I don't need a lift pump at all, just a new mechanic???? I'm a newby to TDR and upgrades, but I just LOVE my Dodge !!!!
 
If the gauge uses 1/8" plasic tube and compression fittings it's easy to over tighten them and collaps the tube. That's a possibility.



-Scott
 
If your lift pump is gone, you shouldn't have pressure. This is the whole point and purpose for installing a FP gauge. When mine went, the FP needle jumped wildly around the gauge for a day while the pump was failing, and then went to zero. Your gauge is upstream of the injector pump, so it's drawing a vacum on your gauge when the LP goes. You shouldn't drive your truck till you get it fixed or you could kill your injector pump.



Oh, and there's nothing wrong with mechanical guages if you use an isolator in good condition.
 
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You should never use the compression fittings and plastic tube to plumb a fuel pressure gauge in any vehicle, if it is a mechanical gauge use the auto-meter stainless braided line that uses 3an or 4an fittings which are tapered fittings. I have never had one go bad or leak, I would be weary having the cheesy plastic tube carrying fuel even to an isolater. JMHO.
 
At 15psi, fuel rated nylon tubing is just fine. Stainless is beyond extreme overkill. What's wrong with compression fittings? They're reliable and easy to use... I have braided stainless for my fuel gauge because it came with the kit, but I have tubing for my oil pressure gauge with no leaks or worries.



OTR trucks have been doing it for years with no problems.
 
I don't think the nylon tube is sufficient. If it rubs against something unforeseen during the install it could fail alot faster/sooner than a stainless braided line. I don't like taking chances, especially with a fuel system.
 
Have you seen what stainless steel line does when it rubs on stuff? I've got mine covered in splitloom because it chaff's so badly. Stainless may look nice but it cuts through wire in a hearbeat. Is nylon sufficient for boost gauges? If it is, how many boost leaks are caused by failed nylon tubing? Now boost and fuel are different, but the MTBF rates of the tubing would be pretty close to the same.
 
My question is, where is there room to run SS line into the cab? I have all the wiring from my smart controller and the boost and pyro completely filling up the one grommeted hole to the cab. Any suggestions?



JRG
 
I recently installed a Westech guage after I was seeing some strange performance issues and difficulty priming the system after fuel filter replacements. I install the guage and saw 0 lbs pressure no matter what I did and I suspected a dead LP, but was hoping I was wrong and it was something I did in the installation. Possiable I had an Isolator problem, swapped it and still 0 lbs. I then thought I had over tightened the hose, replaced it and I still got 0 lbs pressure. After all of that it did turn out to be a dead LP. Replaced LP and 14. 5 lbs right away.



I would recommend not driving the truck until you find the problem.



Randy
 
JGarcia said:
My question is, where is there room to run SS line into the cab? I have all the wiring from my smart controller and the boost and pyro completely filling up the one grommeted hole to the cab. Any suggestions?



JRG



I've got my painless kit, pyro, boost, 1/8 OD nylon for oil gauge, and stainless line through mine. It's tight but working for now. I have split loom over the stainless line to try and prevent some damage there. I'm really thinking of taking it out, it's loud and vibrates a lot.
 
I used stainless braided plumbing hose available in 5' lenght with npt fittings at each end. about $15 if I recall at ACE hardware. had to buy one adapter for my VDO gauge. Do use a needle valve at the scharder valve connection at the fuel pump. then barely crack it open. If you ever have a leak, just shut it off. when in use, just crack it ever so slightly. I used plastic split loom to keep it from chafing on other items.



and indeed there will be no pressure if the lift pump is bad, and you might actually see slight vacuum as I did when the vp44 is running DRAWING fuel.
 
Sorry I havent updated about my problem until now, but I changed the LIFT PUMP" and the problem was solved. Fuel pressure gauge pegged out immediately at 15-16 psi. !!!! But now I have noticed a ROUGH IDLE after the truck gets warmed up, any ideas? I have not towed yet, but planning to next week, so I havent been able to see just how the boost gauge performs!!!!





1998. 5 24 VALVE, SLT, EDGE chip, 4" exhaust, 4. 10 RE, Firestone Air bags, Stage 2 clutch,White

UPGRADED STANDARD transmission

2001 ALFA GOLD 35FT TRIPLE AXLE "ANIMAL HOUSE"
 
Air in the system somewhere. Let it eat for a while and see if it clears up. Check all your fittings for leakage and tightness, it may be drawing air from a fitting.
 
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