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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Help with Haisley studs....pretty quick please

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Too much smoke??

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I have an issue clearance issue with the long stud and my valve cover. The instructions say to grind away the excess, but its almost a 1/4 inch. I bottom tapped the holes before installing them. They cant go down any further either.



My question is can i grind down the bottom part of the stud where there is no threading to gain a little?



I appreciate what ever you have for ideas, but prefferably the right one please.



Thanks
 
Hummm

You shouldn't need to do anything but remove the material out of the valve covers.

I'm trying to figure out why you are having the problem?

Are they all the same?

Did you double nut them to screw them all the way down and then loosen them up?

I know I'm stating the obvious but just trying to help.
 
I had the same problem. I covered the valvetrain with some fire blanket material that i use for protecting things when welding. Then i cut 6 slits in it to expose the studs. I then shaved them down to the proper heigth needed. Hope this helps you. Good luck... ... ... ... Brad
 
I am not backing them out after I bottom them in the holes. That is what I thought at first as well. I am also line swapping them with the headbolts, so its a one at a time show.



I am not wanting to ruin these things by grinding them but if that is the only way to get them in there I will. The shop opens in a few hours, so it would be a huge help if some one could give me a... yes you can, or no you cant... . grind these things. Also if I can would it be best to grind away the bottom(below the course threads) where there are no threads? seems like the logical place to me.



Thank you
 
If the studs are bottoming out on the tip, then that would be fine. If they are bottoming out on the thread then you might have to grind off quite a bit before you see less protrusion. You are not going to screw them up either way. Just be sure to deburr well after you grind so they screw in easily.
 
I have put a few sets in and on the 12 valvers you need to cut 3 or 4 threads off even after grinding the valve cover. I usually put them in then count how many threads are sticking out the top of the nut, take them out cut them off and put them back. This gives you the most clearance possible.
 
its done. lotsa grinding and only one didnt want to go. the number one cover and i didnt have time to mess with it cause we get kicked out at 9pm. all i have to say is i DREAD replacing another headgasket with these things in there!



thanks for the help.
 
Are their variations in 12v head/blocks? I would think that the studs would come at the proper length? Maybe they are purposely left longer to accomidate different setups?
 
NBowlin said:
its done. lotsa grinding and only one didnt want to go. the number one cover and i didnt have time to mess with it cause we get kicked out at 9pm. all i have to say is i DREAD replacing another headgasket with these things in there!



thanks for the help.



I just did my head again. The studs came back out real easy. It wasn't nearly as difficult as I expected. So don't worry about that too much if you have to do it again.



thomas
 
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