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help with my axle seals

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Question about FelPro or Victor REAR MAIN SEAL...

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Anybody change the seals in front axle?I've got it torn down but I'm not sure about taking the carrier gear set out(or putting it back in is more like it)anything special I need to do to put it back to in. also any special tools to put seals in?

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93'4+4 LE emerald green Banks PowerPack,Cummins chrome
 
John, it is not difficult.
You will need a special socket to remove the spindle nut, NAPA will have one.
You should also have the factory service manual before attempting this.
Gene
92 350 4x4
 
John, I guess I should have read your post a little closer,It's been a long day!
I've replaced the seals in the back side of the spindles and have removed the axle shafts but have not replaced the seals inside the differential where the axles come in. The manual states that a differential spreader is needed to remove the ring gear.
Gene
92 350 4x4
 
My experience is that they are in there tight but I have not had to use a spreader. I just used something like a chunk of broom stick and alternating from one side to the other. Going back in I just tapped it back in with a big hammer and a block of wood. You will need to alternate side to side here also.
 
Yeah, those things are hard to get out sometimes but I've found that if you put a box end wrench on one of the ring gear bolts, then turn the pinion (forward directon) until that wrench bottoms out on the case then continue to turn the pinion and the carrier will be forced out by the wrench not allowing it to turn. The reinstall is pretty much as the previous poster says, just walk it in with a block of wood and a hammer, or a soft faced hammer. Be careful though as that thing is HEAVY. It's almost too much for me anymore (I'm 55 yrs old now) but you young whippersnappers won't have that much problem with it. I just pulled the positraction (carrier) unit out of my Dana 60 race car rearend yesterday. Broke the spider gears at the track Friday night. I'll pull that housing to reinstall everything. It's easier to do with it out in the middle of the floor.

When you remove the pinion to replace the seal, make sure you tighten that thing up to get the proper preload on those bearings when you reinstall it. See the repair manual as to what the preload should be for your application. There is a different setting for new or used bearings on this.

Also check the area on the yoke that the seal runs on. If it has a deep groove in it, it may not do any good to replace the seal without repairing the yoke too. If the yoke is worn too much, there may be a "speedy sleeve" available to repair it. Check with your bearing supplier if you need one to see if they are available for your application.

Take your time, be careful and I'm sure everything will be ok. Attention to detail can save you some grief down the road! Racer

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Ken-1993 W350, Cummins TD, 5 Speed, 4X4, Club Cab, LE, K&N, Straight Pipe.
http://users. lynchburg.net/ken0069
 
I was told if I index or mark each bolt then count the turns until the bolt is out and put it back the same way that I won't have to worry about the preload just aslong as I go evenly. sound good?

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93'4+4 LE emerald green Banks PowerPack,Cummins chrome
 
John if you mean the preload on the output shaft the 93 and older axles don't have a crushable washer that is used to set the preload. Ours are shimmed, all thats needed is to torque the output shaft to the proper amount and the preload on the pinion should be good. The manual states 250 to 270 ft. lbs.
Gene
92 350 4x4
 
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