Help With Stuborn Turbo Mount Bolt

[AZiegler]

I'm looking for ideas on gettting the passenger side rear turbo bolt free. I'm trying to drop the turbo to drill and tap the intake (On the verticle side of the back chamber) to move my EGT sensor from post to pre-turbo. The front nut broke free but the rear nut is being really stuborn and is just starting to round of the edges with a 15mm box wrench. I'm looking for ideas, heat, lubricating oil, ect. to get a little advantage. Has anyone else struggled with these mount bolts and how did you break them free?

 

[Nate]

I just took my turbo off today actually to install a pyro. 98 though, so maybe not the same setup?



What I used is those Gear Wrench ratchet wrenches. Stuck the box end on it. Few taps with a hammer and it came loose. Took me maybe 15 mins to pull the turbo off a bit. I didn't take it all the way off, as I didn't see a reason to. I put some duct tape over the holes, and drill/tapped the manifold. Got all the shavings out with a magnet.

 

[DPKetchum]

Soak it with PB BLASTER over night.

 

[nickleinonen]

6pt ring/box wrench maybe???

 

[LesStallings]

Metrinch sockets/wrenches take a bite away from the edge of the nut and is good for even rounded off nuts. I believe Sears carries Metrinch.

 

[smokejunkie]

soak it with wd-40 or something of that nature. If all else fails, take the manifold off

 

[rbattelle]

I agree with Nick that you should use a 6-point socket or boxed-end wrench if you're not doing so already. I also agree with DPKetchum's idea of soaking with PB blaster (or liquid wrench if that's all you've got handy).



I wonder if heating it up until it's literally glowing red hot would help?



Why don't manufacturers use stainless fasteners in exhaust components? I know, I know... cost.



-Ryan

 

[TimG]

Why don't manufacturers use stainless fasteners in exhaust components? I know, I know... cost.



You just think the high carbon steel fasteners are a problem to get loose. Stainless is very prong to gaulding when exposed to high heat.



I wouldn't bother removing the turbo, any metal shavings that do fall inside the manifold will be blown clear of the turbo before it starts turning fast enough to cause damage.

 

[jungledave]

AZiegler, try the six point wrench for sure. You will probably have to heat it. Just get it a little red and turn it back and forth a little at a time. Be careful not to break it because the studs or bolts are very difficult to get out since the manifold is very hard. After several thousand miles of heating and cooling in the presence of carbon the manifold is heat treated. The nut will probably not come loose without heat. When you put it back together use Versichem anti seeze, it is copper powder in a thick liquid. I have used it on everything from wheel studs to exhaust especially on turbo stuff. It is simular to permatex copper coat. good luck.

 

[jungledave]

Why don't manufacturers use stainless fasteners in exhaust components? I know, I know... cost.



You just think the high carbon steel fasteners are a problem to get loose. Stainless is very prong to gaulding when exposed to high heat.



I wouldn't bother removing the turbo, any metal shavings that do fall inside the manifold will be blown clear of the turbo before it starts turning fast enough to cause damage.

Boy are you right about the stainless. You don't even have to have heat to get them to bind or gaul together. Stainless works very good if you use a standard grade 8 nut. We use to use stainless in our high voltage substations but you may never get a bolt back apart unless you use antiseeze. Once again VERSICHEM ANTISEEZE use it on everybolt on the truck.

 

[AZiegler]

Thanks for some ideas. I did use a 6 point wrench. The space between the nut and turbo is so tight, I ground some thickness of the box end so it would fit into the space. I need to check is I needed to take a little more off so it will sit further down on the nut. I have not heard of PB Blaster before, but I will giver it and the heat a try and let you know what came of it.



I really don't want to have to get out the grinder on that nut if I can avoid it.



Andy

 

[DPKetchum]

PB BLASTER can be bought at mosty auto pasrts stores. It helps free rusted and stuck nut/bolts. Works great.

 

[Nate]

Where in town are you at? I could probably stop by and give you a hand for a few mins if you want.

 

[Hoefler]

You can heat one flat of the nut red hot and it should come loose. Any more than that you will make the stud loose it's temper and become soft. Or, if there is room, use a cold chisel and strike it on a flat. You do not have to split it, but make an indentation about a third the way through. This will cause the nut to spread and become loose on the threads. I usually do this after heating has failed and the nut has a soft spot from heating.

 

[AZiegler]

Nate, Thanks for the offer, I sent you a PM. I'll be up north for the next week on a moose hunt. Be back next week.



Thanks

 

[MacHaggis]

Smoke wrench! Soak it good with PBB, Liquid Wrench whatever, then pput the heat to it.



Just from experience braking loose steel bolts threaded into iron that haven't been touched in 50 years on old tractors . . . You can heat the bolt, and I'd recommend that, but it may take several heat/cool cycles to do the trick. Idea is that the expansion and shrinkage will break up the bond that's holding it fast. Try some of that, but when you go to actually break it loose, heat the turbo around the bolt quickly instead of the bolt (Mapp works better than propane for this) to expand the thread.