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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission help with which truck to buy

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) stumble again

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I am looking to buy a second CTD in the near future. I have found two that I am intersted in. I need the truck to pull about 11,000lbs across the country often. The first truck is a 1999 3500 4x4 QC daully with every option, plus many upgrades like a power modual, injectors, 4" turbo back, and a BD auto with a 3. 55 rear. He claims 325hp/780lbs. The truck has 75kmi and he wants $24500. The second is a 2000 3500 4x4 with a HO and a six speed. QC and slt trim, so it doesnt have the overhead comp or power seats, but that doesnt really matter. This truck has 4" exhaust as well, K&N, an adjustable modual with 9 settings, Gear-vendor, mopar exhaust brake, and 3. 55 rear end. This truck has 65kmi and he wants $26500. Both have many more extras, but my question is which would be better and more reliable to use? I have no problem with a manual and all those gears sounds enticing. It will be a work truck to some degree, so reliability and towing ability is the major factor here. Both trucks have guages too. I guess its just built auto vs. 6spd + GV. Please help me out. Thanks, JOE
 
I'm still pretty new so I don't know a whole lot about BOMBs. But after all that I've read about transmission problems, if it were me I would lean to the 6 speed ( only a little lean though ). I have a 2002 auto with an auto. I have 18,500 miles and zero problems so far. But I don't tow very much though. Sorry I couldn't be more help. :confused:
 
Thanks, yea the six speed seems like the right choice. I appreciate your advice and honesty JPLB22, i'm new too! Thanks guys and keep the advice coming. JOE
 
how can the 2000 be a HO??i thoght 01 is when they started the HO's... regardless... the 2000 hands down... but them prices are WAY too much for those kinda miles...
 
I personally would never buy a truck that has engine modifications, more potential for abuse. If you do go for one with mods you shouldn't have to pay extra for them, that's the way it would be if the parties sell the truck elsewhere. As for the engine warranties, they went away with the mods. No matter how hard you try to hide it the dealer will find out they have been there.
 
Originally posted by Pit Bull

No contest. ETH/DEE, I would offer him $25K and he should take it. Still have 35K warranty on the engine.



Sorry I did not notice the engine modification on the 2000 :( If it has a box on it then as Bill just stated your warranty is toast. Since you don't know how it has been treated and it is modified so you can't get it fixed for free I would say the price should be around $23K. I would also take it to the nearest Cummins shop and have them check it out to make sure it is in good shape. Good luck.



Just for comparison, I sold a 2000 3500 4x4 CTD automatic with 56K miles and no modifacations 6 months ago for $23K, it had everything on it but Leather. But it did have hail damage on the hood and roof and front fenders that would cost around $850 to have fixed at one of though "fix a dent places" Other than the hail it was in great shape and had never towed a goose neck or a 5th wheel. Hope this helps.
 
I hate to say it, but I am also from the crowd that don't like to buy used after its been modified.



Even if you buy it and take the mods off, how do you know that the factory has not already voided the warrantee. Plus the with the pump wire pierced, you will always have the signs that the truck was modified, so if ever a tech is under the hood and sees these signs, they can void what warranty is left even though you removed the mods.
 
You might want to consider new with all the incentives and interest programs. A friend bought a 3500 SLT QC SRW HO 48re with leather and CD etc for a little less than 33K two months ago. I would have to get a real deal to consider another used CTD after driving his truck and I love my 12 valves. Considering the improved transmission, great brakes, super handling and hopefully better rear end you will have more in a used truck by the time you upgrade to anything approaching the 2003.
 
since... ...



"It will be a work truck to some degree, so reliability and towing ability is the major factor here. "... ... .



then i would buy a 12V if i were you.
 
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