Helpful hint when dropping fuel tank!

[swamp rat]

For those of you who are not contortionists, I have accidentally backed into what appears to me to be a much easier method of dropping the fuel tank. If it works as planned, it will certainly make it easier for subsequent tank removal. The manual says to first disconnect the push-on connectors and the fuel gauge sending wire. I tried that and wound up putting a rather nasty kink in the thermoplastic line which leaks air profusely. My solution is cut the plastic line and replace them with 2 foot of 5/16" and 3/8" ID quality rubber/neoprene fuel line and hose clamps. In attempting this I have found that the supply line tends to suck air when only using the hose and clamps. If one is careful, you can cut the QD fittings from the thermoplastic line with a razor blade or sharp knife, then push them into the rubber line and clamp them. You will also need to cut the plastic line from the metal lines alongside the frame rail to enable installing the rubber line and clamps. Allow the rubber line to coil around the sending unit and fuel tank nut upon re-installing the tank taking care to keep it from getting caught between the frame rail and tank. A couple of ziptype wire ties works nicely to keep the lines together and from rubbing. If you really want to get fancy, one could even go so far as to get some plastic wire loom to encase each line then wire tie them together and it might even make the install look a bit more professional to boot.



Next time, when you find a need to drop the tank, you wil only need to disconnect the sending unit wire and then ease the tank down to the ground using the slack in the rubber fuel lines rather than doing what happened to me causing the plastic to bind and crack.



I am looking for a supply source for the OEM QD couplers as I type just in case one were to get broken (and the inner plastic clips are a bit fragile). They should be rather cheap, but the only place I have found that distributes them won't sell except in huge quantity.



Edit: I found the small plastic insert retainer clips at Advance Auto, Dorman# 800-006 (5pcs. ) for the 3/8" insert and # 800-005 (5pcs. ) for the 5/16" insert. Total cost for 1 pack each was $7. 18 tx incl. Cost more for the packaging than the actual parts!

 

[swamp rat]

I am happy to report that Tuesday evening everything went well in hooking up all the connectors and fuel lines, if you don't consider the chiggers and ticks crawling all over me and the incessant itching that resulted. I even put the plastic wire loom around each of the rubber lines for added protection against rubbing. I no longer have the aforementioned air leak in the fuel supply line at the sending unit and the truck runs smooth as silk.



If I ever need to drop the tank again for whatever reason, the job will go much easier with the extra two foot of line between the frame rail and the sending unit. After disconnecting the gauge sending connector, the tank will easily drop to the ground without putting the lines in a bind, and I won't have to struggle with removing those special type push-on connectors. Also, I won't have to siphon all the fuel out as well until re-install. One could easily drop a full tank using a X-mission jack or pair of floor jacks w/board in a pinch.



One thing though, an extra 4-6 inches of rubber line for both supply and return line would make it easier to coil the excess around the locking nut and sit level on the top of the tank. Two foot is just a shade short to make a complete loop, but it still doesn't rub any metal.

 

[Alan Reagan]

Good idea, Swamp Rat. Dang good idea. I'm glad to know those plastic clips are available at a parts store.

 

[John]

Great idea swamp rat! Transfer Flow includes all the pieces to make the same upgrade with their 54 gallon replacement fuel tank.

 

[swamp rat]

Thanks fellas. I feel like a real member now, finally having made a positive contribution to the group after drawing so much good info from this well of knowledge here.



One other small thing I learned (not sure if I should have done it) was when reinstalling the tank, the tank straps are rather difficult (next to impossible) to fit back into place while aligning the bolt hole and the hanger bolt. I rummaged through my drill bits to find one that was almost as large as the hole in the strap, and I reamed the hole out ever so slightly, barely any metal removal at all. The straps still hang a bit going on, but much easier to line up and get the nut started w/o stripping the threads. I definitely intend to go back and check the torque after a couple of hundred miles of driving. If I detect the nut trying to back off, I figure retorquing and a nylon lock nut screwed down after the stock nut should hold ad infinitum.



BTW, if anyone in the Mid-Tenn area is contemplating dropping the tank and you need some plastic clips, I have at least three extra of each size. (gonna keep one pair for myself) I'd be glad to pass them on and offer some help if you need/want an extra pair of hands. Just not in the grass with a passle of chiggers please. OUCH! (itch-scratch-itch-scratch)