Here I am

Heres an odd Steering problem

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3500 rear rotors single or dually??? same??

What Year?

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So I just noticed that I can steer to the left/right from neutral and everything seems normal but when the wheel comes back under little to no steering load the wheel wobbles back to neutral. If I apply some force back to neutral the effect is LESS. I replaced the steering box a year or so ago with a redhat (I think that was the name) since my stock box started leaking. I had the tire shop pull the tires and check the front end but all they could find was a little play at what I think is the cross members. My ball joints were more recently replaced with Carlie joints. No leaks anywhere and PS fluid is full. It seems like perhaps there is a valve or mechanical issue in the steering box that is mainly felt as the steering wheel returns to neutral from a turn to the left or right. Any thoughts.
 
Since my tie rod ends seem to be worn I was thinking of going to the mopar 8. 5 upgrade kit which is preassembled and just drop it in. Is there any better replacement these days.
 
First off, i'd take a look at ALL components. Double check your track bar mount too, mine was loose. Have somebody turn wheel while you watch all the components. Also make sure you're not getting any air into the fluid, that can cause some interesting symptoms. I replaced all the components on mine twice before going to a crossover kit. Depends on where you live and the type of driving you do. I lived out in CA where the highways were like creek beds.
 
Have you check your front axle u-joints, assuming that your truck is 4x4? I had similar symptoms when a front axle u-joint was binding.
 
Since my tie rod ends seem to be worn I was thinking of going to the mopar 8. 5 upgrade kit which is preassembled and just drop it in. Is there any better replacement these days.

Not and still run stock wheels. That is about the best option available.
 
Any chance your experiencing bump steer from 4wd being engaged? Just because it is off on the dial does not mean it is really off... .....
 
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Bump steer as if the 4wd is in... ... It kind of feels like this but how would I check since the light does cycle back and forth from 4wd to 2wd.

My tie rods were a little worn, but the tire shop that it probably is not causing the symptom I have

U joints up front?. It does this mostly from going to neutral from either turn, L to N and R to N. Turing L or R I don't feel it as much.

I hate to take it to the dealer if the tire shop couldn't figure it out but perhaps a better mechanic shop?
 
Bump steer is from the suspension cycling causing the the drag link to move the tires or the steering wheel depending on leverage. If you are running the stock y-type steering at stock height thats not an issue.

The u-joint bind in 4x4 is usually felt at full turn due the to the bind, the same with a bad u-joint as they tend not to bind the less angle there is even if they are bad. However, it is possible if one is seized that bad you could feel it as you return to center. That is easy to check, jack up the front wheels spin each front wheel by hand checking for binding. If you have a bad u-joint you should be able to feel it.

The steering stabilizers can fail internally and start jamming, pull it and see if anything changes in the steering. No need to go to dealer yet, a fes simple tests might point out the problem.

Is this osmething new or has it been there for a while?
 
OK, I jacked up the front end and spun both tires. They move and the driveshaft moves so I don't think I am stuck in 4wd

I then moved the tires left to right. I cant tell any play other than where the tire shop showed me which is the y-type steering linkage but it is subtle

I then found that when the wheels are turned extreme L or R that the L front tire spins freely BUT the R front tire binds at a certain point and to get past this point the tire actually moves in or out past the bind. Sounds like a bend or bad R front U-joint?
 
Bad ujoint, typical problem. You have a couple choices between the OE, spicer lifetime, or a greasable.
 
I have swapped them out on both of our trucks several times. I have used Precision greasables to this point. I've had good luck with them except for one that failed at 18K. I believe that others have had good luck with the Spicer, which is what I am thinking of going with the next time around.
 
I guess the obvious question now is do I just go in and have both done assuming 175K on these is enough and the other probably is not far behind?
 
I guess the obvious question now is do I just go in and have both done assuming 175K on these is enough and the other probably is not far behind?

I did just the one and then two months later I had to do it all over again on the other side.
I'd do them both next time.
 
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