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Hey Farmers, Hydraulic Pump

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Does anyone know of a company or shop that has Hydraulic pumps that can be mounted to an engine, specifically a Toyota 4 or 6 cylinder. I really could fab up something myself I guess if I could find the Pump and pulley.



Also, do any of you farmer types know anything about HYDRAULIC rotary mowers (I call them brushhogs). I don't want to use a normal tractor PTO. something in the 6 to 7 foot range. You put mower in yahoo and you get back mostly small lawn mowers. Thanks



Jim
 
Never seen a rotary mower that runs off hydraulics, have seen flail type that do though. Very expendsive, these guys have some, you need to get a catalog http://www.thestgeorgeco.com/



SURPLUS CENTER, Lincoln, NE 800-488-3407, 402-474-4055, fax 402-474-5198 has tons of never used surplus hydraulic pumps for very cheap, call for a catalog.



Will these mowers do it for you?;)



http://www.thestgeorgeco.com/catalogue/Farm_Forestry/Forestry/forestry.html



Hydraulically or PTO driven.

Will fell and mulch trees up to 18" in diameter.

Provides awesome power which can be applied to the most difficult clearing tasks.

Designed for tractors up to 300 hp.

A 300 hp gearbox is fitted and drive is through two centrifugal clutches.

Twin hydraulic motor drive is also available.

Fits most tractors over 200 HP.
 
I have seen the mowers ran with hydraulics. They heat up hydraulic fluid fast especially on tractors with higher hydraulic pressures like John Deeres. We run a small motor with the hydraulics from a 4640, the tractor sits still, and after a couple of hours the differential is too hot to touch. I know you can bypass some flow valves if you have trouble with that, not exactly sure which valves though. thats about all i know, alonzo
 
farmerzo, older JDs with closed center hydraulics are well known for overheating when running hydraulic motors. JD doesn't recommend doing it and finally switched over to open center a few years ago, at least 25 years after all the other tractor makers.
 
No such thing as a hydrualic mower. Why dont you want to use your PTO, thats the only thing on a tractor you can use to run whether it is a pull style bat-wing mower or a belly mower. I would suggest researching this more.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I am still researching this but have been sidetracked the last 2 days.



Krohn, I have seen one single hydraulic mower, but not up close enough to see if it would fit my needs. There are alot of what companies are calling "Flail" mower that are hydraulic driven. They are not the typical brushog style, but a compact and round looking design.



Illflem, those are a little LARGER than I was looking for but have got a call in to the hydraulic supplier you gave me, thanks a bunch.
 
I have 2 burned toro commercial lawn mowers with hydralic drive 3 blade decks. They are Groundsmaster 580-D's, I dont know how many G. P. M but the lines are 1".



Jared
 
No such thing as a hydrualic mower



Yes they do make them. This type of mower is mounted on a long arm for doing ditches and rough ground where you can't get a tractor with a conventional mower into.



But I do not have a name on a mfg.
 
Thanks Illflem

I had a hydraulic pump fail only five hours after a $ 1200. 00 rebuild. Your surplus dealer in NE sells these pumps for one to three hundred. I hope I can get one that fits my application.

How many years of TDR will this pay for?:D :D :D
 
"Yes they do make them. This type of mower is mounted on a long arm for doing ditches and rough ground where you can't get a tractor with a conventional mower into. "



Philip, are you talking about a sickle bar mower? And if they DO make a hydrualic mower I would love to see how it would work, sounds interesting but not very economical. Are there any web sites?



Thanks Nick
 
krohn, here's a roadside flail mower Not sure if this one is hydraulic, most are but have their own hydraulic pumps, tanks etc. that run off the PTO. Mott used to be the top of the line standard hydraulic roadside mower that lots of highway departments used. Doing a search for them it seems they are out of business but with lots of businesses selling parts.



If I was in the market for a tractor pull mower flail would be the only way I'd go. They're a bit more expendsive and heavier but more compact and heavy duty. They don't throw things, rocks and stumps are no problem.



SURPLUS CENTER, Lincoln, NE 800-488-3407 is a great place for deals. Highly encourage folks here to check them out. Unfortunately they aren't online and many times things in their catalog sell out fast since they're surplus with limited lots. Once you order from them fliers will come with new items. I once bought a couple of brand new surplus Caterpillar pyros with probes from them, $14 each. They have boost and pyros quite often. Buy all my hydraulic cylinders/valves from them, they have oddball sizes you can't find elsewhere.
 
Rhino , Bushog, or Woods should all make Ditch bank mowers, the mowers that are mounted on a hydraulic,arm to mow around road sides. Our county has about 3 bushog brand ditch bank mowers. They all run them on 4430 and 4440 deeres, and dont seem to have any problems. I think some of the mowers, may have an oil cooler mounted in the system to keep hydraulics from overheating though. I dont think the closed center valving is what is causeing the systems to overheat, it is probably just trying to run to big of a hydraulic motor with not a big enough pump and hydraulic system. Most new tractors all have closed center systems, with variable displacement pumps, to save horspower and for better fuel economy
 
at www.bushhog.com you can find a pictture of the ditch bank mowers i was talking about, the specs say theyare pto driven , but that drives the pump to drive the motor, so the hydraulic system is contained on the unit.
 
illflem

You have been missinformed about tractor hydraulics, John deere uses open center hydralics up to 60 HP and "economy" models 65 to 95 hp, the higher grade 65 to 95hp and 7000/8000/9000 series tractors are all closed center (have been since the 4020s in 1960). CaseIH went to closed center with the Maxum and Magnum series in the late 80's, Ford new holland somewhat later with the Genesis tractors. Closed center pressure and flow compensated hydralic systems are the only way to run high flow multiple demand equipment applications.

To run motors JD recomends a seperate return connection to the trans housing on the older tractors.

no flame intended, I checked to make sure before I posted.



edit

illflem I hope I didnt misunderstand what you were saying, JD did change the small tractors but farmerzo was talking about a 4640, 150hp, everybody has gone to C/C on the bigger stuff.



Shrimpy

Is this the type of pump your thinking of http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...=4006970&storeId=6970&productId=576&langId=-1 I think the belt load on the pump would be pretty high to run a 6' mower. The motors on the 7' decks I have look fairly big to me maybe 35 to 50 gpm. I think you may need a direct drive pump.



Jared
 
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Thanks Jared, In my latest searching I have determined that I will need quite a bit of flow to run what I need. I have found several companies that build Hydraulic power packs. These look like generators, but with a Hydraulic pump attached. I will need something in the neighborhood of 25+ hp to run what I need.



Also, I am moving away from the deck style mower ie. "Brushhog", and am moving toward a "Flail" or drum mower. Illflem mentioned this early in the thread and got me to looking.



All I can say is that this has been an eye opening experience in hydraulics for me :eek: . I appreciate everyones input, and will report back on exactly what I am doing a little later when I firm everything up on my end with this new business venture. Thanks again.



P. S. It's not super secret or anything, I'm just a little anal about things that deal in a business decision. I have been burned before (not by any TDR members) and just like to keep a lid on until everything is firmed up.



Jim aka Shrimpy
 
Jared, thanks for the heads up, I didn't realize some were going back or never left closed center though I did know they are more energy efficent.



Shrimpy, does your tractor not have a PTO? If it does Northern, Surplus Center or Grainger can sell you a 40 gpm pump that slips over your pto for a little over $200, you come up with the controls, tank, relief, filter, etc yourself.
 
Originally posted by Shrimpy

P. S. It's not super secret or anything, I'm just a little anal about things that deal in a business decision. I have been burned before (not by any TDR members) and just like to keep a lid on until everything is firmed up.



Jim aka Shrimpy
I didn't want to ask but I kinda assumed this was tied to the ATV post. Also assuming you don't want to go broke, talking about 6-7 foot mowers and ATV's raised my eyebrows. I don't know what your going to mow but by now you must have realized, it can take some power. My six foot Land Pride (brush hog style) pushes my 40 horse Massy (33 pto HP) to the limit trying not to overheat. I need to clean the radiator every few hours. I also use 108 HP to pull a 15' wing. On the occasion I decide to take out a fence row, with nothing bigger than say 2-3 inches in diameter, it does take some time. High wet grass alone will bog you down too.
 
You're heading in the direct direction there QRTRHRS !!!!!:D . I have killed the ATV idea, and am finding out I need lots (30+ HP) of PTO HP to do what I want to do. It does include mowing in very damp conditions. On one of my other threads (forgett which one) I mention that I am leaning towards a "flail" mower now. Just trying to decide what to push it or pull it with. I am not going to be mowing my own property, but large areas (10+ acres) that are total swamp condition. I have a very promising lead on a Skid Steer set-up that looks good. Of coarse the initial investment is large, even used. I am investigating other avenues as well... ... ...
 
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