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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Hi/Low Beam Selector Switch On Fire

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I was wondering if anyone had experience with replacing this switch.



I kept having this smell (thought it was the heat/ac for a long time)



This weekend The Hi beams cut out shortly after the smell, so I tested the theory two or three times. Sure enough, it's the hi beam position.





I'm also curious about this because I have a brite box on and I don't understand how it could load enough to burn the switch.



IF anyone has any info on the replace proceedure, let me know.
 
It sounds like maybe your high beam switch is simply in need of replacement, but I could be wrong.



I had a problem with mine a few years back where once in a while when going from high to low beam the lights would go out completely. If I hit it twice again, I would get high beams, then finally low beams. It would only happen in the winter or other cooler months when the heater was running. I never ever had a burning smell.



I put in a Summit Racing headlight harness that takes the load off of the headlight and dimmer switches, as they are then only controlling relays. Ever since then I haven't had any problems with mine.



As far as I know the Brite Box should also take the load off your headlight and dimmer switches.



Sadly, I have not had to replace mine, so I cannot give you any tips in that area.
 
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if you're replacing your multifunction/dimmer switch, first unhook your batteries and wait a few minutes (for airbag to discharge). Then there should be 3 torx fasteners under the column, one big one in the middle and two smaller shrouded ones on the outside. Unscrew your tilt lever (if you've got a tilt column) and remove the column halves. There are two tamper-proof torx fasteners holding the switch to the column. Undo them and remove the plastic shroud over the plug in harness. There is a 7mm bolt that locks the harness onto the switch that needs to come out, then detach the harness and remove the switch. Should take about 30 minutes. I just did mine last weekend. Low beams went out without any warning. They came back on as soon as you hit the dimmer switch. Good luck.
 
The brite box will max the situation worse; it's operation results in the load of both the low and high filiment loads to the switch???
 
kscheffler said:
The brite box will max the situation worse; it's operation results in the load of both the low and high filiment loads to the switch???
A careful read of the installation instructions for the model 4 Brite Box® by Baker Auto Accessories, Steamboat Springs, Colorado, indicates no additional load is placed on the headlight switch or wiring while using their product:
http://www.thebritebox.com/Brite. Box. Install. downloads/BB. 4. 7. g2. install.pdf.

Geno's Garage makes the same claim: http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo. asp?number=BB-M4.
 
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This is exactly why I bought mine. They claim that the only load through the original system is to control the relays in the box, thereby removing the load to the factory switches.



And yet, My Multifunction switch is gone and I had to put on a new headlight switch AFTER the brite box went on.



I think i'm going to break out the multimeter and do some testing after I get this new switch in.
 
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