hi\low beams and fog lights

[Mag]

I was just reading some old posts about improving the lousy lights on these trucks. I found some info on hooking the high and low beams together by tying the violet\white wire to the green wire going to the multifunction switch. I also read you could keep the fog lights on with the high beams by jumping the relay in the P. D. C. Can I do both of these together or am I going to overload something? Anybody tried these two things? Any downside? Any info on these mods would be appreciated

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2001 3500 4x4 Q. C 6spd H. O Patriot Blue 3. 54 L. S. D U. S Gear exhaust brake
Greig

 

[K_Arts]

Mag, I am by far no expert. . but here is a piece of info that was sent to me by FET, about enabling both high and low beam headlamps.

<font color=blue>The ONLY EXCEPTION is if and only if BOTH filaments are illuminated at the same time. Most dual filament bulbs (H-4k, 9004, 9007) will only allow 1 filament at a time as the heat is too great with both filaments running INSIDE THE BULB

<font color=black>So instead of wiring both my low and high beams together and possibly causing damage, I just purchased a ZETA from FET. The ZETA is just a ballast that brightens up both beams of the headlamps. Here is a link if you are interested

FET's ZETA Automotive Headlamp Ballast

Hope this helps. .

Kev

[This message has been edited by K_Arts (edited 02-22-2001). ]

 

[mikel]

K_Arts,

Would you tell me a little more about how you like/dislike the ZETA? Is it worth the $$ and does it make a dramatic difference in the lights?

Thanks,
Mike

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'99 QC 2500 SLT Driftwood 2wd SB 24v Auto 3. 55 LSD
ISSPRO boost and pyrometer, Pipe BOMB, 24,000 miles 2-12-00
-- email address removed --
Howdy Agg's!

 

[K_Arts]

I should be installing the ZETA either tonight or this weekend. . but I will definately post up all of the info once I get it.

Kev

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

The problem with running the high and low beams together the way you say is that you'll overload the switch, it's marginal stock. The best way to do it is to get a brite box - or to wire up your own relays to run the lights and use the stock wiring just to fire the relays. That's what the brite box does. I have the brite box on my truck and also have the relay for the foglights jumpered in the PDC. Works great and lights up the world. You get get the brite box through Geno's garage for under $100 or through many other sources as well. It takes less than 5 minutes to install.



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-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, TST Powermax, 275hp RV injectors, Joe Donnelly modifed Sachs Clutch, custom ladder bars, SW fuel pressure gauge, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's, (all the common stuff clipped)

 

[Mag]

Steve, did you actually fry your stock switch or blow fuses? What kind of problems did you encounter wireing it together?
Greig

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

I personally didn't wire it together. I went straight for the brite box. If you do searches on here about running lights/cab clearance lights you'll see where many people even wired those with relays because they melted headlight switches. I have several friends (and a brother) who are ME's (Yeah I know they are mechanical engineers but they largely work on interiors so they interface with the EE's regularly) with the big 3 and any switch they put in is rated for just over the load they expect it to carry. Double the load with headlights and you are sure to melt one down. JMHO

-Steve


[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 02-22-2001). ]

 

[Arcticat]

I have to respectfully disagree with steve on his point about overloading the switch. The hi/lo selector on the multifunction stalk does not have any power in it that relates to the headlights. It's function is to close a ground path thus completing the headlight circuit. 12V is always present at the headlamp bulb connector. What you are doing by putting in the jumper is to connect the GROUND wires from the lo and hi beams, not the 12V feeds. The britebox to my knowledge places the exact same amount of load on the switch - ie the ground from the lo side of the lamp is now running on the hi side ground when both are activated. What the britebox DOES provide is extra 12V power from the battery via an internal relay to support the extra load that is being placed on the single 12V wire that feeds the headlamp bulb. Personally I don't believe it is necessary as I have been running with only the jumper in place with no problems for almost a year now. In addition, for most of that time I have been using overwattage 85/110W bulbs. If you want to be extra safe about it, you can rig up a relay and a few connectors to provide exactly the same measure of prudence that the britebox provides for under $10 in parts.

[This message has been edited by Arcticat (edited 02-22-2001). ]

 

[Mag]

Arcticat, I've got a bit of a curve ball to throw at you. Will my daytime running lights screw this up?

 

[CumminsAholic]

Mag,
I'm with Arcticat, rig up a relay. That's what I did. You don't have to worry about overloading anything and it cost's about $6 in parts. I'll try to find the diagram on how to do it and post a link.
Corey
here's a few that may help... http://dodgeram.org/tech/mods/electric/headlight.htm http://lighting. mbz.org/tech/how_to/relays/

I used one relay on mine. I ran a hot with a fuse link from the battery to the relay, a wire from the high beam wire to the realy... to turn it on, and a wire from the the low beam wire to the output on the relay, then a ground to the relay. I dunno it this will work on your truck , but it did on mine. I've been running like this for over 10,000 miles with no problems at all. You can get the relay at radio shack. It's around $5. It's rated at 30 amps I think and it was the only one they had.

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1998. 5 2500, 4x4, SB, Red Sport, Agate Interior, Quad Cab, O. H. Console, Auto, 4. 10 LSD, Trailer Tow and Camper Special Packages, Mopar Aluminum Nerf Bars, Spray In Bedliner, Pioneer/Jensen System, 255/85's, Bd Adjustable Preformance Box w/boost module, Boost Elbow, 4" Exhaust Split Into Two 3" w/5" cans, K+N Scotty Style, Exhaust Blanket, Bill K's Valve Body, Mopar Tow Hooks, Front Bumper Step, 55 watt Back-up Lights, Etc, Etc... .

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

Thanks for the follow up guys. I'll have to research it a little further now. For the record I did mention using relays and wiring it up yourself in my original post.

-Steve

 

[CumminsAholic]

Steve,
I believe you about overloading the switch... I've heard of it happening, but I guess maybe they had bad switches. I was gonna get a brite box but figured I'd give the relays a shot first, it doesn't affect the switch and it works great so I'm gonna leave it. BTW, How do you like your bfg's? How are they lasting? I think I'm gonna get a set.
Corey

 

[Mag]

Corey, thanks for the link to the wiring diagram. Any idea if the daytime running lights are going to be a factor for me?

Greig

 

[CumminsAholic]

Greig,
My truck doesn't have daytime running lights so I dunno. I wouldn't think so but I'm not sure. Are the running lights the low beams? If they are it may backfeed into the running lights wiring causing potential problems??? If not all the relay will do is supply power to the low beams.

Corey

 

[SmokinJoe]

Originally posted by Mag:
I found some info on hooking the high and low beams together by tying the violet\white wire to the green wire going to the multifunction switch. I also read you could keep the fog lights on with the high beams by jumping the relay in the P. D. C.

I would like to do the wiring mods on my new truck, when I get it. I am getting a sport, with dual lamps, you may have to order those lights if you want to run hi/low beam lights at the same time...



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(2) Red 1990 Dodge Spirit RT 2. 2 Turbo cars
1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD Modified
2001. 5 2500 4x4 on order...

 

[thepitts]

The switch on the 2001, switches only the grounds and now power. Plus DC upgraded the switch, IMHO I don't feel you would have a problem doing the wire routine. Others have been running it for some time with no problems.

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Eric Pitts 2001 Properly Valved 2500 Qcab 4X4 auto Transgo shifts it 4. 10 LSD Weston Nerf Bars Smith built brush guard Command Remote Starter Scotty Air DD stage 1’s, PS boost module , elbow 32psi boost 247hp,657tq Neophyte B. O. M. B. er
The Pitts Home Page
Member GLTDR

 

[Mag]

Thanks for the help guys. I'm going to give it a try.
Eric do you happen to know if the wire colors are the same on the 2001
Greig

 

[Mag]

Corey, the running lights are the high beams at about 50% I think.

 

[sam peterson]

get a brite box from geno's and have a big improvement in 30 minutes and don't worry about relays, switches, wiring etc unless you just like tinkering.

 

[mr plow]

for those of you with daytime running lights, if you unplug the DRL module, you can run your fogs with your high beams on. The only problem is the indicator llight for your highs is disabled on the dash. Good luck.

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2000 2500 quad 4x4, K&N, VA &boost module on the way.

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