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HID Headlight problem

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A buddy bought me an H. I. D. conversion kit that he has used successfully on several GM vehicles after I expressed my displeasure with the factory headlights on my '03 (they suck, to put it bluntly).



Anyway, we installed them yesterday and they would flash on and off (along with the interior lamp-out light). Something to do with the Forward Control Module from what I understand. Anyone have any idea on a solution to this that doesn't require a Master's degree in electronics?



And yes, I did a search already, but that info is a year old and wasn't exactly what I needed.



Thanks

Dave
 
It sounds like it's tripping a breaker in the truck. Double check your wiring, if it's OK then you'll need to add a relay with an appropriate sized circuit breaker between it and the new lights because their drawing too much current from the stock system. You could use a fuse intead of a circuit breaker but in the event of a short, it's better to have blinking lights than none at all.



Scotty
 
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Thanks Scotty, but the HID's only use 35 watts. The problem seems to stem from the FCM not "seeing" the resistance of the factory bulbs and then going through it's "lamp out" sequence. It has something to do with the buss/data enabled lighting circuit. Damn thing is too complicated for it's own good.



I tell ya, it's times like this when I just want to go back and work on the 1970 Super Bee. The 'Bee doesn't know (or care) what light's I chose to plug in! Ahhh progress!!



Dave
 
Ya, nothing is easy anymore when it comes to electrical stuff and these trucks.

So maybe it's wants more of a load? Thats a bit more tricky.
 
You need to put some load resistors on line to fake out the computer. As you see on my sig. I have installed HID projectors and used brite box for the control. Good luck on this set up they are illegal to do in the US now.
 
I went through the same thing on my 03. There should be a few threads on tha other CTD forum but I cant link it since I got banned. So here goes.



Its flashing and giving the lamp out because the headlight are contoled my the computer and the computer isnt seeing the correct voltage that is given from a halogen bulb.



What you need to is swap circuts between the headlights anf the fog lights since the fog light arnt computer controled. Your going to have to cut and splice the HID wires on the fog lights and wire the fog lights up to the headlight wires.
 
Thanks Dan,



Sooo, then my headlights would be controlled by the fog light switch? What about high/low beams then? Why do I get the feeling I'm missing something?



Dave
 
p-Bar said:
You need to put some load resistors on line to fake out the computer. As you see on my sig. I have installed HID projectors and used brite box for the control. Good luck on this set up they are illegal to do in the US now.



Well, I'm not in the US, so maybe that's OK. :D

So my understanding of the brite box is that it enables both high and low beam filaments at the same time. I'm not sure how that would work with the HID's? :confused:

Was it difficult to hook up?



Dave
 
DPelletier said:
Well, I'm not in the US, so maybe that's OK. :D

So my understanding of the brite box is that it enables both high and low beam filaments at the same time. I'm not sure how that would work with the HID's? :confused:

Was it difficult to hook up?



Dave



Brite box custom made me a unit to do this along with the fogs staying on too Hot set up. All plug and play no wires to cut.
 
OK Phillipp,

I read the Daniel Stern article and to be honest he makes some good sense. He had a similar article debunking the Sylvania Silverstars and other "whiter" light type bulbs too.

My big issue is the low beams. Most people complain about the high beams, but these can be supplimented with driving lights. Low beams are all alone and on these trucks they are just pathetic. I spend alot of time driving back and forth to the ski hill. Conditions are snowy, slippery and dark with lots of other traffic (meaning no high beams for the most part). I'm getting really tired of having a $40,000 truck with lights that are equivalent to something made in the '80's. My guess is that the factory lights on these trucks are in the bottom 10% of all new vehicles sold.



So what do you think of the Stern article? Did the HID's help? or seem to help? Did you just call the bright box folks and explain the problem or did they have something that they had made and tested previously?

These HID retrofit kits seem like they may not be the best thing since sliced bread, but I'm running out of ideas to fix the problem.



Thanks

Dave
 
Yes the fog light switch will operate your new HID and visa versa.



You mentioned hi beams. Did your HID kit come with hi/lo beams. My kit was lo only so I cant help you out with that



The only thing the brite box does is enable the lo beam when you turn on you hi beam. Essentally what happens when you pull back on the blinker lever before it clicks.



I know what you mean about needing improved light output w/o blinding oncomming drivers. Back when I worked as a grommer at night at the ski resort I had a set of PIAA 520's and they worked great and since it was 1am there was nobody on the roads.
 
I read Daniel Sterns information with great interest..... He identifies that the headlight system is well designed... . maybe not enough light... . but well designed... .



Very helpful...
 
HLewallen said:
p-Bar - you installed HID projectors? Any chance of you posting some more info or pictures showing how you accomplished that?



I did take some pics as I did this, I will post them maybe tonite, I have been very happy with the outcome. I calculated the following for my installation, HID's 3200 lumens each, H1 halogen projectors 2600 each and driving lights 1700 lumens each =15,000 LUMENS OF LIGHT
 
Her are some pics

1 lights bought off of ebay

2 tore into them removed the reflector with H1 bulb installed new Bosch HID's





Will give you some more over the weekend
 
There is a company in Auburn WA called Vision. They sell and import lights. They have a resistor that will trick your truck into thinking that there is a Halogen bulb in the truck. If you wire this resistor inline, you will not have a problem with the flashing, or the H/L indicator on the dash. Hope this helps





Ross
 
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