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High coolant temps

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4BT to a NV4500

2002 f250 with 95 12v

Well as I suspected my coolant temperatures are higher than I would like to see. Sunday I hooked up to my 30' gooseneck and headed up a hill and doing 70 mph up the hill I was at 230 degrees hill was only 1-2 miles so I dont know if it would stay at that temp or not but either way that is too hot for me. Soooo my question is I would like to either had a heater core in front of the intercooler or another radiator that I have laying around (90 Jeep Cherokee, long and short) in the front of the bed of the truck. I was going to use the factory heater core return line to run to either of my options since I dont have a service manual to see if there are any ports I could use. I know I could pull from the head but am not sure where to return the coolant (Need a service manual for flow charts!!) Anyhow I am leaving thursday or friday for the mountains with the mentioned trailer so time is of the essence. Any input would be great, Thanks!!! BTW I am running two electric fans 12" 4000 CFM and I do believe that I just need more cooling capacity due to the fact that after the hill it went down to 190 fairly quickly.
 
What temp is your t-stat? Is it working properly? I have a 180* stat in mine.



I am curious as too what the CFM is on a factory Cummins fan that is used on the Ram. Could be wrong, but I would think those two fans might be enough.
 
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I have a brand new Cummins 180 thermostat, and I to would also think the electric fans would be enough. I just believe that the smaller radiator I had to use (31x19. 2. 25 aluminum with 2 1-1. 25" cores) is just a little to small for towing, mabee in a lower elevation flat state it would be fine but not here.
 
I don't think the electric fans can pull enough air. I just replaced my 19 inch stainless flex fan with a 22 inch 4600 series class 5 flexalite truck fan. What a difference! I too was hitting 230 plus pulling the high mountain passes and now seems to be at least 20 degrees cooler under all conditions. Noise is a little louder but it cools. I am running a dodge cummins radiator from a 97 in my set up since I was told that the stock chevy radiators won't hold up to the flow of the cummins. I also notice that if I try and pull a grade with egts over 1100 degrees that water temp starts to creep up.
 
I had a custom adapter machined that adapts the left hand threads of the fan pulley to a standard 4 bolt fan pattern. The heavy duty flexalite fans are available in every bolt pattern imaginable or even custom or blank.
 
I tried the dual Flex-A-Lite (Model 350??) fan setup on my 1996 V-10/47RE Dodge Ram 3500. It wouldn't cool the engine in towing applications. The fans drew (as I recall) 50 amps when both were engaged. 50 amps x 12 volts = 600 watts = 0. 8 BHP. Even if the electric fan airfoils were twice as efficient as the engine driven fan (and they're not), 0. 8 BHP just couldn't move enough air to cool the V-10 when dragging our previous 13,500 lb 36' 5th wheel through the Texas Hill Country.



I went back to the engine-mounted fan with a 205 degF fan clutch (228 degF was stock with the V-10), and my cooling problems disappeared.



It cost me $500+ to learn this lesson. You're welcome to take it for what it's worth. :rolleyes: :(



Rusty
 
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I'll also second the lack of cooling while towing with electrics. I installed a 19" flex fan and it has helped (not solved yet) I still need to do a shroud that should help a bunch, I may also try a different fan possibly one that will move more air, anyone have any ideas/links?
 
The problem with an engine driven flex fan (generally speaking) is that they're made for high performance, not towing, applications. For a high performance fan, it's fine if the fan is at its maximum airflow position at or near idle - this will keep the engine cool while sitting at stoplights and general around-town cruising. This fan is designed to "flatten out" at high RPM to minimize engine BHP losses - of course, it moves little or no air and can actually block velocity air flow through the radiator because of the flattened blade profiles. For drag racing, that's fine - the engine is at max output for only 10-15 seconds - not long enough to heat up.



For towing, however, high RPM work (i. e. , dragging a 5ver up an 8% grade) is exactly where we need maximum cooling. That's why, for towing applications, I prefer a factory-type non-flexing fan with a thermally-activated viscous clutch.



JM2CW... :rolleyes:



Rusty
 
That is what I would like to do but I dont think I have the space for a clutch, I may have to go with a solid mounted "stock style" non flex fan. :confused: Mabee the flex a lite nylon fan?? Ideas?
 
I too would like some alternatives in case this Zirgo electric fan doesn't work out. I MIGHT be able to shoehorn a fan in between the pulley and the radiator. However I know there's no way in H E double hockey sticks that a clutch will fit in there. :{



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And there ain't no movin' nothin' ahead either! As it stands now, the Ford FlowerJoke intercooler is going to be about 1/4" behind the grille when all is said and done: :eek:

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The gentleman whos been mentoring me on this project and also repowered a coach exactly like this one keeps bragging to me about how he drove his for over 25,000 miles with NO fan. :eek: :rolleyes: I'll keep you guys posted on the end results once I get it roadworthy.



Don
 
Pmaloney,

Go to flexalites' web site and click on heavy duty otr fans. Then click on the 4600 series fan. This is a nylon fan with an aluminum center. If you are running a flex fan now you can run one of these. I chose the 22 inch version. It pulls massive amounts of air. I am very happy with the improved cooling that this fan has made. Oo.
 
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