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High Exhaust Temps

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2003 Turbo

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I installed the Edge "Juice with Attitude" programmer/tuner to my '06. I am pulling a 36' 5th wheel RV and even in the tow mode the exhaust temps hit 1350 quickly and I can't use the rest of the power. I am running just the catalytic convert and no muffler. Any suggestions on how to help with this?
 
I installed the Edge "Juice with Attitude" programmer/tuner to my '06. I am pulling a 36' 5th wheel RV and even in the tow mode the exhaust temps hit 1350 quickly and I can't use the rest of the power. I am running just the catalytic convert and no muffler. Any suggestions on how to help with this?

I am sure you will get lots of specific answers, but I am pulling a 35' TT in the CO Mountains and use a Smarty with UDC to manage my EGTs. Prior to getting BBi Stage 1 Injectors, I was running a Smarty Jr on SW2 and was able to keep EGTs under 1200 with plenty of power. With the BBis I had to go to UDC but my EGTs (so far) have been sub 1200 with plenty of power.
 
i agree with bigceltec, the edge juice with attitude has damaged or ruined many engines it get's the pistons hot enough to crystallize the aluminum and part of the top comes off and the ring breaks at this point, throw the edge in the trash and get a smarty jr and set it on default tow
 
Thanks for your answers but I just bought the thing and don't have the option to trash it and start over. This website used to give lots of helpful information, now it seems all we get is criticism for what we installed and no help to fix the problem! Any legitimate help would be appreciated.
 
I do not think that anyone here is trying to criticize you… furthermore, it is not anyones fault here that you did not put a price tag on the solution in your first post. In fact, it seems that it is you who is confusing the EASY solution provided with criticism.

In short, the PROBLEM is the programming on the juice… while giving you added power, it is fueling too much, too soon, so you are getting too high exhaust temps, too soon. Changing the gearing on your truck, or ditching oversized tires (sorry, don;t know if you run them or not due to a lack of info you provided) could help out…. Perhaps a better flowing intake and exhaust would help you out SOME, but by the time you spend the money on both or either of those things, you might as well save money and just buy a Smarty/Jr. and ditch the PROBLEM in the first place and get SAFER power then the juice can ever give you and also likely save your engine in the process, which is potentially an even more costly and complicated problem that continued use of the juice is known to cause.
 
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If you want the cheapest solution to the hot Temps of EGT turn down the juice. Otherwise the advice that was given is the best solution.

Sell the juice on Craigslist or something is an option.

But then again fill out your signature so we know if your truck has larger tires, what gearing it has, and any idea on the weight of the trailer? Are there hills?
 
Thanks for your answers but I just bought the thing and don't have the option to trash it and start over.

You have a choice, trash the EJ\A and start over, or trash the engine THEN trash the EJ\A and start over. Otherwise, turn it off and just the monitor. Getting defensive because YOU bought the wrong thing without doing adequate research is not going to solve the problem.

This website used to give lots of helpful information, now it seems all we get is criticism for what we installed

We are giving helpful information, lose the EJ\A or lose the engine. If you would have done some research here and asked the answer would have been the same. Complaining because you don't like the answers is a noob thing, deal with it.

no help to fix the problem! Any legitimate help would be appreciated.

If you don't like the idea of losing the Edge and starting over you won't like the steps to mitigate, not remove, the dangers. I can tell you that water injection and compound turbos will mitigate the visual evidence, it will NOT remove the possibility of melting pistons under load.

You are not telling us what year and trans and any other info about the truck, weight, usage etc, it might make a difference if that temp you are seeing is all that bad. If you had done some research here you would have found that the EGT temp is not necessarily THE culprit, the time factor is much more critical. If you had done more research you would have found that time factor changes depending on mods and year of truck. If you want BETTER answers you need to provide BETTER information.
 
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Like others have said, we need more info about the truck. You don't have to trash the Juice, just learn to drive it.....it's not stock now! I like mine, however my truck is an '01 HO with RV 275 injectors so it is not quite the same. I have over 200k on mine with an EZ and the RV's, 20k on the Juice. Level 2 is the same as an EZ, I use level 5 most of the time. It does not like high RPM, as in not over 2100. It's ok to rev it up for short periods of time, like an on ramp but that's all. This is when I tow, empty I will play on level 6 once in awhile. I have never used level 6 with a load, I figure my clutch won't like it:)

On a hot day I have more issues with my water temp than my exhaust temp. It seems the fan clutch needs a certain amount of time for heat soak, to kick in, It is like the Juice will heat it up faster than the fan clutch can sense the higher temp and react. I even installed a new Mopar one with no difference. Edge products are not junk, you just have to rethink your driving style and watch your gauges all the time. I have mine set to defuel at 1400*, on level 5 and if I hit a tough hill that requires full power, it will hit that temp in about a mile.

Try driving in the 1700-2100 rpm range and report back.

Nick
 
Mauseth,

Just as a point of ref - I have made a bunch of changes to my 5.9 - air intake and exhaust (see my sig for products) and spent a lot of money doing so (willingly so!), but, by far, the Smarty and UDC combo has helped control EGTs more than any and all mechanical/physical changes combined. When I went to UDC, I changed to Smarty "Sr" and was able to recoup almost all my Smarty Jr cost by selling it on Ebay.
 
If you want the most control, look into EFI tuning. I do not have smoke or egt issues on my 06, and still can put down plenty of power.

Part of that is having a built transmission to handle the torque, and having traction parts to keep the axle located.
 
thank you all this gives me more information that is useful to me.
I have been a TDR member for over 15 years. Most all of my engine mods AND suggestions on the purchase of TWO new trucks, I queried the site FIRST. The best advice I got here was when I was looking for my '07, 5.9, 4x4, 6 speed stick. A couple of the guys that were "in-the-know" told me to look for a truck that was built in the last two weeks of 2006. Dodge had apparently used up the G56's that were set up for the 5.9 that had a .79 6th gear (kind of low geared on the highway). For the last two weeks of the 5.9 production trucks with the standard transmission, they installed the G56 that was set up for the 6.7ltr diesel. It had better splitting of the ratios AND a taller, .74 sixth gear. I FOUND one of those trucks and still own it. My FIRST Dodge diesel, a 2001.5, the guys said to wait until the 2001.5's came out because they were going to have 4 wheel disc brakes. I did and bought one.
So... Sometimes the answer isn't the one we might want to hear but most of the guys here won't BS​ you either.
 
thank you all this gives me more information that is useful to me.
I have been a TDR member for over 15 years. Most all of my engine mods AND suggestions on the purchase of TWO new trucks, I queried the site FIRST. The best advice I got here was when I was looking for my '07, 5.9, 4x4, 6 speed stick. A couple of the guys that were "in-the-know" told me to look for a truck that was built in the last two weeks of 2006. Dodge had apparently used up the G56's that were set up for the 5.9 that had a .79 6th gear (kind of low geared on the highway). For the last two weeks of the 5.9 production trucks with the standard transmission, they installed the G56 that was set up for the 6.7ltr diesel. It had better splitting of the ratios AND a taller, .74 sixth gear. I FOUND one of those trucks and still own it. My FIRST Dodge diesel, a 2001.5, the guys said to wait until the 2001.5's came out because they were going to have 4 wheel disc brakes. I did and bought one.
So... Sometimes the answer isn't the one we might want to hear but most of the guys here won't BS you either.
 
When I start up a hill I keep a close eye on the EGT's. When it gets close to 1250, I pull into 2nd. gear and slow down. I don't undrstand why people think they need to go 65 mph up a hill.
Just watch the EGT gauge and let the truck go at isn't own pace, not yours. I have close to 170k on my truck, same transmission. The trans has near been above 175 degrees pulling a hill and 100+ degreees out side air temp. I also run the Mag Hytec tanny pan, that helps a lot.
 
When I start up a hill I keep a close eye on the EGT's. When it gets close to 1250, I pull into 2nd. gear and slow down. I don't undrstand why people think they need to go 65 mph up a hill.

I don't need to, but I want to and I can, so I do:D

Nick
 
I don't need to, but I want to and I can, so I do:D

Nick

That is your choice of course. But common sense dictates otherwise. I see guys running travel trailers down the road at 75, not smart since ST tires are only rated at 65! Of course I see these people on the side of road with blown tires and damaged wheel wells. I have towed trailers at least 100k and have only had one blow out, and I was only going 60 ar the time.
 
All the tire stuff nothing to do with EG temps and towing. If it can't run 65 up hill and down hill within its weight rating it is broke. Even loaded over the max it should not be an issue run the posted speed up to 75 mph. When you start pushing 80-85 it is a different story.
 
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