High Idle Adj--Best way to turn that Screw?

[mikepvg]

I would like to get full fueling up to my 2500 ceiling.
Whats the best way to turn this rounded off tamper proof screw all the way in?
1) file a slot in the head?
2) back it off & put a diff screw in?

Help! #ad

Mike

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94 2500HD 5sp 4. 10LSD 4X4 ABS w/GearVendor OD, K&N Oval w/ Pre-Filter, Straight Exhaust, Geno's Fumotovalve, AW-Direct Idle Controller, Mag-Hytec Rear, 123K miles. NRA Member. V1.

 

[Strick-9]

Mike,

That cover is a pain to get off. I used a combination of tools to rip and tear it off. I remember getting scared mid way through the operation. I thought I was tearing up my injector pump. But then I found the screw MY6 spoke of and figured out how to get it off. It's worth the effort.

You should notice an increase in power throughout the RPM range and a new governed speed of 3000 RPM. Have fun!

-Chris

'94 2500 4x4 3. 54's, auto built by Bill K. , custom fuel plate, Diamond B 370's, governor spring kit, AFC spring kit, hi-flow delivery valves, 4" Jardine Exhaust.

 

[Strick-9]

Mike,

You're going to have to forgive me because it has been a long time since I did this. I know it is hard to see in there. If I remember correctly you can only see the head of the bolt. The throttle lever touches the head at full throttle. I think the metal cover only conceals the locknut. You can't turn the head of the bolt with the locknut still tight. You have to remove the cover to expose the locknut. The locknut will take a 10mm wrench. Once loose, you can adjust the bolt with your fingers.

I spent a lot of time trying to grab the head of the bolt with channel lock pliers before I realized there was a locknut under the cover.

I believe what you are calling a plate is what we are calling the cover. It is removable although it may not look like it.

I would feel much more comforatable if someone had a diagram of the pump for explanations. I think HEMI has a few good pictures. I'll see if he can help us out.

-Chris

 

[Strick-9]

Mike,
Here is a picture of what you should see!

The magical locknut is under this cover!

#ad


-Chris

 

[HEMI®Dart]

mikepvg
If you are planning to install a Governer Spring Kit in the near future, don't bother adjusting the high RPM screw, You will just have to put it back where it was stock. Why go thru the aggravation.

 

[My 6 Eats V8's Old File]

yours should have a tin cover held on with a lead headed flatscrew, I rarely try and get these out anymore but just cut it in half to get to the 10mm lockdown for the stop. Go all the way in with that screw. You may even think about going one click in with you governor. Make sure you do both sides. If you go more you may sacrifice idle quality. Besides it gives you a reason to slide you plate forward #ad

 

[mikepvg]

WTF! I guess I can't see too well anymore...
MY6 terms were right on!
The tin cover came right off POC (once I knew what it was!)
Its looks like the hard job will be to cut or remove that rounded screw blocking access to the 10mm lockdown nut.
Is that screw pressed in? or is it actually screwed in?
Tips on cutting or removing it?
Thanks for the great .jpg! I'm sure that will help others also!

HEMIDart, I have two reasons:
I don't plan on the getting the GS Kit. If I can just get a full 2500 rpm out of this I'll be ecstatic. Any more will be gravy. Won't need any more. I know, I know, I'll want more but I might be a little too logical in this regards. Only planning on the TST 675ft-lb plate this spring to mitigate driveline damage. This is a limited budget operation. Most of my funding so far has gone for PM & repair (bought it used & neglected... )

The other reason is, I get great satisfaction doing it the the hard (but free!) way to properly retune the "errors" from the factory!!! #ad

Thanks for the help guys!!!

 

[My 6 Eats V8's Old File]

its just screwed in, the 10mm nut just holds it tight. you want to screw it in(toward the front of the motor) all the way, then tighten the lockdown nut again.
so I guess you guys already moved the stock camplate all the way forward(to within 1/16 of the opening) right.

 

[mikepvg]

What about that pesky screw blocking access to the 10mm nut?
Is that its only purpose... so that one may just grind or cut it off?

Hmmmmmm... Slide plate all the way fwd to w/in 1/16 of opening?
Not YET... #ad

 

[mikepvg]

Hey Strick-9
I just figured out where & how you pulled in that .jpg
Very cool... .
#ad

 

[My 6 Eats V8's Old File]

hey mike the pesky screw is the stop, you loosen the nut(10mm) then screw that in all the way.
#ad

 

[mikepvg]

No no no, I mean the rounded thing that is @ the same level with the 10mm lucknut that held the other side of the tin cover. It prevents getting a box end over 10mm locknut.
Can I just hack away at this?
Thanks #ad

Mike




[This message has been edited by mikepvg (edited 02-23-2001). ]

 

[My 6 Eats V8's Old File]

oh oh oh, take a long screw driver and hammer and back it out, its screwed in also.
sorry.

 

[mikepvg]

OK... I have NOT gotten the HI idle screw adj'ed yet because the 10mm locknut is still blocked by the other rounded off screw & I haven't been able to get to it w/ tools on hand. In the meantime as advised by TDR members, I did a no-load full fuel test. Results are the same as loaded. I can get to 2700 rpm but anything past 2200rpm (shifting) is useless unless I'm winding it out in top gear. It chokes & sputters upward from 2200rpm. I'm getting conflicting advice on what this HI screw will or won't do.

By turning this HI idle screw in;
will it or will it not fix my defueling that starts @ 2200 (which I have read on this forum is normal for my 94 model) or do I need to look at some other adj.
I don't need rev's higher than 2700.
I just need quality full fueling to 2700rpm.
Not all this choking & sputtering.
#ad

#ad



[This message has been edited by mikepvg (edited 03-02-2001). ]

 

[My 6 Eats V8's Old File]

hey Mikey take a long screw driver and drive it down(you'll prolly need a hammer) and out, adjust the stop all the way in and go from there. That is free the next step calls for a governor spring kit from Piers.

 

[mikepvg]

Mikey did it! #ad

Unloaded: rpms now go to 3100+.
Loaded: it will freely rev shifting to 2500 which is a good improvement but some defueling is still evident from 2250 & up (stumbles @ 2250 but continues to 2500 fairly well & then sputters like a dying Ford).
I need advice on what to do or look for next. The rpms are there, just full fueling seems not to be there. I did fart around w/ the linkage to make sure I'm getting full travel.
I did notice that when it does its sputting thing that it makes some blue smoke. If it wasn't getting full fuel, why would any smoke appear? Otherwise it doesn't smoke at all.
Thanks
Mikey
#ad

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Mike, I'm not sure what else would help you besides the below recommendation. Wait and see if anyone else has any ideas.


Governor Spring Kit

1. ) Allows full fueling to 3200 RPM's without an exhaust valve spring change.
2. ) Chrisper throttle response off idle to redline. The whole powerband seems to have more HP & torque.
3. ) Smoother than stock idle
4. ) Easy installation
5. ) About 150 bananas
#ad


More info in these threads: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum1/HTML/002520.html

Hollar at me if you want #ad




[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 03-04-2001). ]

 

[My 6 Eats V8's Old File]

yep Mikey
"you've got all she's got captain"
until you change to Piers gov kit. Its worth the money. I can't tell you how to do it thow I've never done it.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Check your fuel pressure at the top of the fuel filter. TST makes an adapter to screw into the position where the bleeder screw usually goes. It may be low--common problem with your year Ram. It should be 17-22 lb at idle and 25-30 lb at rated speed (2400-2500 rpm works OK for this test). If low, that can be the cause of your stumble and low power over 2200. Low fuel pressure is usually cuased by a plugged fuel filter, bad overflow valve, or faulty lift (transfer) pump.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

If you come to Belen, NM for the Auge's TDR meet March 17, look me up. I'll have a gov kit and can show you how or put it in for you. It is 'way better than that high idle screw. (Note the term high IDLE--it increases the no load rpm but doesn't do nearly as much for high load rpm, which is what you want. )