High Idle Help - PTO, APPS, etc? NOT Dealer Flash, NOT Smarty

[AndyMan]

I know that there are several posts related to this, but I've been searching for three days on the subject, and can't come up with exactly what I need.



Synopsis: I have a remote starter with a trigger lead and a built in timer. I want to start the truck in the house, and have the idle run up to 1200 or so after one minute of regular idle.



I don't care about the ECM update to high/3cyl idle. I want to be able to remotely control the idle at ANY temp.



IF I can find a wire in the PTO system, or possibly the APPS and obtain the proper voltage (without blowing anything up), I can wire the remote start trigger to a switch and then a relay and then a trimmer to introduce the proper voltage (or ground) that will run the truck up to 1200RPM. Once I get in the truck and am ready to leave for the day, I can hit the toggle switch which will de-energize the relay and kill the voltage/ground and return the idle to normal... then drive away happy.



Does this make sense?



Things I already know and don't care to re-hash:

I can buy the BD kit for several hundread bucks - NO

I can have the dealer reflash - NO

I can buy Gordon's (Practical Solutions) kit for a couple hundread bucks - NO

I can buy the kit from PSdieselproducts for a couple hundread bucks - NO



I want to do this with electronics parts from Radio Shack for about $20. I KNOW it can be done, I'm just having a little trouble figuring it all out.



Help Please?



I have no interest in building these to sell, but the R&D forum seems the appropriate place to post this.

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

If memory Serves me right it is a white wire with an Orange tracer. Th Word PTO brought up nothin' for ya?



You juuust may want to rethink your thought as there is programming needed and you could just as easily if not easier just buy a high idler kit even tho you don't want to spend the dough.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51150&highlight=pto+wire

 

[AndyMan]

Yeah, I've read that thread over and over. I thought that there were still some enterprising types such as myself that like to figure nifty things out. It's looking more and more like that's no longer the case... . buy a box and plug it in.



I'll cut off my nose to spite my face and not have high idle before I pay someone a $175 for a box with a pot, some diodes and trimmers.



I suppose what I need to do is buy the factory service manual for $70 or so and then I'd have the wiring diags and could figure it out on my own.



Thanks for the reply anyway Tim.

Andy

 

[Bob4x4]

Yeah, I've read that thread over and over. I thought that there were still some enterprising types such as myself that like to figure nifty things out. It's looking more and more like that's no longer the case... . buy a box and plug it in.



I'll cut off my nose to spite my face and not have high idle before I pay someone a $175 for a box with a pot, some diodes and trimmers.



I suppose what I need to do is buy the factory service manual for $70 or so and then I'd have the wiring diags and could figure it out on my own.



Thanks for the reply anyway Tim.

Andy

The ecm is somewhere around 1100 bucks... ... ..... one mistake and your radio shack idea is out the window. If you had a friend at the dealer the high idle enable is a no brainer.



Bob

 

[AndyMan]

Tim (or other moderator).



As I feared, this thread looks like it's going to run in circles around what I already know. You can lock this thread down and/or delete it. So far there's not any information here that hasn't already been discussed, and I am highly doubtful that any will be added.



Thanks,

Andy

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Naahh Andy let it run. Someone may post something for ya at SOME point I am sure.



LOL@ Cut My nose off :-laf



The whole solonoid mounted to the throttle arm idea rigged up on a different remote channel no good for ya either? How many remote channels do you have available to you on your alarm? I am guessing you have 3 left because most remotes have 4 channels. If you do have a few left you could use the accessory out on the alarm module to do your switching and simply all you have left is to find a way to ramp up idle. Weather it be solonoid actuated or finding the truth behind the PTO lead and giving it the Ground OR + feed it needs



OR: could you use an HVAC delay timer tied in with your remote start circuit?



P. S Have a shiney titainium padlock on standby for ya if you truly want this thing shut down.

 

[delliott]

I picked these up off the forum a few years ago, but I can't find the threads now to save my life. You can tell from the one that it was posted by GIZMO 007, but I can't find who gets the credit for the other. As I recall, the more complicated of the two schematics includes a turbo timer. My intentions were to just build the high-idle similar to GIZMO 007, but include the 10k trimmers to keep the RPM within reason.



I've had all the piece to build it for a couple years now, but I just haven't found the time. This project kept getting bumped by other projects that offer a little more "sex and violence", like new injectors, infared backup camera, on-board air, etc. So much so that I haven't even had time to update my signature.



If you search for posts from "GIZMO 007", you'll find the part numbers and contact information for LADD industries if you want to buy the connectors to tap into the APPS without cutting any wires.



Good luck with the project and keep us posted...

 

[AndyMan]

Now that's what I was looking for. I'll get my head down on this and keep you posted on my progress.



Thanks,

Andy

 

[terrywerm]

I found the links to the other schematic and the associated threads, ECappleman is the guy who gets the credit for that schematic.



Here are the various links:



Link to the schematic: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=8474&width=3



Original post on his homebrew idler and cool down timer:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=86247



Subsequent post:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=87833

 

[AndyMan]

Cool info. Thanks to everyone for contributing.



I THINK I've also sourced the deutsch connectors used. I THINK you can get them from Painless wiring. Part number is 70406. You can get them from Jegs for about $10/set.



I'm just gonna keep adding here as I make progress. It may be a while still, but I hope to figure this out and lay it out for everyone to see for free.

 

[AndyMan]

Great thread here:

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.php?t=123156



These guys have come up with a different way of doing this. Good looking design. I'm gonna take of of theirs and some of the above to finish mine.

 

[Cooker]

If you are interested I can get the connectors locally. I can check on pricing tomorrow or you can call. The part numbers were listed in one of the previous threads.



The company name is Terminal Supply: 1-800-989-9632.



Personally I would not have a problem using a Posi-Tap. I am not a fan of Scotch Locks but Posi-Taps seem to hold up better.

 

[Bob Wagner]

TDR is the best 35. 00 investment but so many refuse to pay the due's



what a shame

 

[AndyMan]

Thanks Cooker. I would have really been interested, but now that I've found this process that taps rather that cuts, I may just go that route. Posi-Taps are fantastic connectors. You can actually buy them at Wal-Mart now.