high idle stop screw?

[**ICEMAN**]

how do i get the tamper proof seal off the head of the high idle stop screw?? and what type of head is under it? screwdriver,,wrench etc?

thanks

 

[SmokinCummins]

Iceman... . Well first, take you brake booster nuts off and pull it from the firewall just to get it out of the way of your view. It makes it alot easier "trust me". Next just take a screwdriver of a chisel and tap it , it's copper, mine kinda ripped off like a pop can tears open. Then it's a 10 mm head. OH I FORGOT, you'll need to preform all these directions while standing on your head... . k... LOL. . You'll see what I mean.

 

[**ICEMAN**]

ok,so its the cover at the base of the screw that hides the 10mm nut . i was trying to pop off the tip where the throttle hits it. thanks

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

The good/bad news is, you're wasting your time

Just drop in a governor spring kit. That is what will give you the rpm you are seeking

 

[Strick-9]

ICEMAN,



Please be careful. The high idle stop is a good adjustment for manual transmissions, but it can cause problems for us automatic guys.



Assuming you have freeplay in your TV cable at WOT now. You will increase your 1-2 and 2-3 shifts by messing with the high idle screw. If you make dramatic changes with your high idle stop, your TV cable will limit throttle travel. You can loosen off on the TV adjustment to allow extra travel and get your WOT shift points back in line, but you will sacrifice line pressure at ALL low RPM driving and will have later shifts under part throttle.



All of this has happened to me so I'm speaking from experience. Here is the problem. I drove my truck for quite a while with my TV cable limiting throttle travel without knowing it. It turns out that I put so much strain on the cable, that I not only stretched it, but also pulled it off at the transmission.



I couldn't understand why my transmission lost its downshift responsiveness and I drove it for a few months until I destroyed it from lack of line pressure under full throttle.



If you go ahead and adjust it, just check your TV cable afterwards. And understand that the higher RPM shifts are due to both the increased power as well as more TV rotation at WOT.



Good luck,

Chris

 

[**ICEMAN**]

strick-9,,thanks for the info on the tv cable. that had to be the worst time i've ever had ,,getting the seal off was a real pain,,no room to work. i couldn't get it down flush with the lock nut,,about a 3/16" gap between the nut and screw head. i dont think i'll try that one again. i did a quick test run in a straight part of my 6/10 mile long driveway and seen 2800 on the tach,,2400 was highest before.

joe d. ,,your right,,i believe i will do the spring kit. i was looking for about 3200 rpms. how hard are they to install and whats the cost? i guess i will have to put the idle stop screw back to where it was,,won't i ?? i didn't mark the old location so what do i do now? my 01's in the shop for a lift pump so i figured i'd tinker with the 12v and look where it got me! fixin something that wasn't broke in the first place. old reliable 12v,,less problems/issues in 7 years 195,000 miles than my 01 in 1 year 17,000 miles.

 

[Cooker]

I guess Chris explained why I've been told not to mess with this on an auto



Gov. Spring Kit it is then. Someday



-Ryan

 

[SlyBones]

Gov Spring Kit

I had Piers install my Gov. spring kit last week. check his site, a 3000rpm kit goes for around $125 and the 4000rpm kit gets $225, and includes the HD valve springs. I hear the valves float around 3600 and 3200 is a good safe point with some margin. Or you have to install the HD valve springs.



On the test drive with Piers we put it in manual second, and stomped on it. Got to 3300-3400 rpm. I was watching the tach and the road. Piers said was holding 32lbs boost as well. -- Before kit best I ever saw was 3000rpm and the boost started falling off around 2750 or sooner. This was not stock either. This was with Piers handy work to the stock springs / high idle back about 3 months ago.



The kit is definately the way to go.

 

[MY6EATSV8'S]

sence you guys have a clue on how to work on your stuff, take the camplate out and under is the gov springs, there are 2 each 180 degrees from one another, if you go ONE click in(clockwise) you can expect another 2 to 400 rpms. Sometimes you can do 2 clicks but you sometimes get a higher idle if you do.

just some more free advise.

 

[SlyBones]

My6,



This is what Piers did to mine a few months ago. And it was an improvement. But nothing like the gov kit. I did have the idle problem. I had to keep my idle high, in order to keep in from stalling, esp in summer with the A/C. The last week or so has been great with the gov kit. Idle is set where it should and truck runs great. No problems even with a/c and all that. -- more rpm's, no or little defueling over 3000, and wider, smoother powerband all for $125. Seems like since the gov is no longer defueling in the 2600-2750 range where peak HP is, this prolly even nets a few more HP on the dyno too.



I just got it so the enthusiasm has not worn off yet.

 

[MY6EATSV8'S]

I love your guys inthusiasm. You are the guys that can relate to me.

Your right the gov kit is the ultimate, and Piers is the the man... .

but for people like me, and it seems for a wile like you, turning the gov indents in one click is a heck of a lot better than stock for not a dime.

I rember the story Piers told me about Joe D turning his all the way in at one point in his early bombing beginnings, he couldn't understand why it would just rev until he shut it off around 3500 or 4000 rpms.

we all live and learn.

 

[**ICEMAN**]

after driving it today the rpm's seem to come up quicker than before from a dead stop. it will go to 2800 rpms in 1st and 2nd if you hold down on the go pedal now. tried it in drive but had to quit at 110mph. ( still got that death wobble scare in the back of my mind). it was a real PIA just to turn a little screw in though. i also made sure that there is enough slack in the tv cable so it dont get broke.