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Brand new to the board, 1st time post. My truck idles around 800rpm in Park and around 600 in gear when first started. However, after I have driven at highway speeds for 30 mins or so, when I come to a stop it is idiling around 1000 in gear and around 11-1200 in N or park. I let the brakes go and it takes off like a rocket. This has happened whith the past 3 tanks of fuel and I usally use injector cleaner but I skipped it this last tank. I hesitate to mess with the idle since it seems fine at first and has just started doing this after running it at highway speeds. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks,

Dave

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'96 3500 Dually, Black, 4 inch exhaust, Rancho 9000 shocks, '00 Lance camper
 
Homer,

Check your throttle cable for fraying wires. This is very common with our trucks. Look on the injector pump where the rotating assembly is.

If a sticky throttle cable is not doing it, I have no idea. Others will help.

-Chris
 
Homerdog:
I too drive a 96 and had the same trouble. I found the rear ball joint on the rear of the throttle rod when lubed would stop the problem. The real culprit was the rear joint was rusted and worn. Go ahead and buy you a new rod assembly before the stud wears grooves in it. The bell crank cost over a $100. The linkage is cheaper.
Good luck.
Preston

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96 3500, Black SLT, 5 speed, turbo diesel, , with US Gear overdrive, Rhino liner, Reese 15,000 lb. fifth wheel hitch, US Gear de-celarator exhaust brake, muffler elimination kit, Amsoil lub. , Mag-hytec rear cover, dual-remote by-pass filters, and Roadmaster Active system, AutoMeter Pyro & boost, Primeloc
 
I had the problems with my linkage. I ended up replacing the mess. Did the cable on the rod when it frayed really bad. Linkage replace can be fun. When pulling the linkage off the ball studs the stud came with mine. Ended up with a air chisel to and the stud in a vice to sepearte the two. Took the bracket off the pump and reassembled. It was an operation but works great afterwards. #ad



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95, Kitty dead, #6plate, 5speed.
 
HomerDog,

If your linkage is the same as on my '95 it's not hard to take apart unless you leave the little clips in. These little clips are amost invisable. The linkage ends are shaped kind of like a ball. The little clips wraps around the base of the ball. The end of the clip is pretty small since it's just the wire folded over. You can unwrap it with your finger and pull it out of the ball. Just pull in a direction parallel to the linkage rod. Then the ball will come off without a lot of effort. If it's kind of crudy you might have to use a screwdriver to twist between the lever and the ball. It may help to dose it with WD40.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,DTT TC/VB,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

[This message has been edited by Joe G. (edited 04-18-2001). ]
 
my 94 did the same,,frayed cable

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94 2500 4x4 SLT,auto,187,000 miles,3:54,brilliant blue/silver,tst 250/635 set full forward,star wheel wide open,air box ported,pump turned up 20%,k&n,gauges,cat gutted,
2001. 5 3500 4x4 q-cab slt,auto,8900 miles,3:55lsd,brite silver,tst power max 3 adjustable,j-hook,3 gauges on the a-pillar,2" tuff country front leveling kit,vinyl graphics,dee zee runnin boards,both have 12k hitches&15k's in the beds,30ft fourwinds 5er,(MY RAMS) http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1360183&a=10142301
 
I have the same problem when I go to the car wash and wash my motor. It turned out to be the cheap ball socket on the throttle linkage. Which must have rusted. If I keep my 95 I am going to build the linkages out of heim joints that I have saved for this kind of problem. I also built my throttle cable out of wire rope I bought at the hardware store and silver soldered the brass end that I needed to fasted the cable in place. The cable is a few thousands smaller than the orignal, but it works good and has been in the truck for two years and no problems. I carry some LPS3 and spray on the cheap throttle ends and the truck idles ok.
 
Guys--Thanks for the help. I inspected the throttle assembly but found no frayed wires. Hovever, I noticed there are two cables attached to the rotating assembly and the bottom cable was not attached. What does this one do as the one cable is still controlling the truck with no problems? It seems as there is some play in the entire assembly and I can get the idle to drop by putting some downward pressure on the whole assembly. I just ordered the service manual but I think the suggestion of replacing the whole mess is what I'll do. I'm hoping that the throttle linkage recall will apply to my truck. I called DC the other day and they knew nothing about it. Again, thanks for the help...

Dave

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'96 3500 Dually, Black, 4 inch exhaust, Rancho 9000 shocks, '00 Lance camper
 
Dave, I guess you don't use your cruise control much. The bottom cable is from the CC throttle actuator, if it's disconnected you will have no cruise.
 
Dave,

If your throttle linkage is the same as mine then there are three cables. The two on top connect to each side of the upward pointing lever. One is the foot throttle cable and the other is the cruise control throttle cable. The cable attached to the downward pointing lever is the kick down cable connected to the transmission. If that is disconnected it may very well be your problem. The automatic transmission throttle compensates for the pull of the spring attached to the kick down lever on the transmission. If this cable is disconnected then the kick down spring is not helping pull the throttle lever to idle. Try connecting the cable and then make sure that the spring on the trasmission is in place. The correct adjustment for the cable is that there be no slack so that when the throttle moves the kick down lever moves. If you need to adjust it let me know. It's a little confusing.



[This message has been edited by Joe G. (edited 04-21-2001). ]
 
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