Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) High pyro temp

[Bob4x4]

Yup,put many tow builds together using an hx35 as a base.Upgrade to say a PDR 35/14 and you can get a bit more speed on the hills while towing.300 hp range is a good mild towing set up that remains durable for years when cared for and monitored while towing.Too many try using a bigger turbo and end up hating the required rpm

 

[cerberusiam]

The HX35 is not out of it's map at 30 psi at all RPM ranges, my miles driven and pyro numbers prove that it is useful. To say otherwise would be like saying my stock steering shaft will not drive my truck, that I need a Borgeson. I have never run off the road with my lil old stocker shaft

No, the concepts are not comparable. I never even suggested the former. I clearly stated the HX35 will produce air to 30 psi and a bit more and at that point it is beyond its compressor map. Did NOT say it would not do it. Did NOT say it would not work. Even an H1C will boost to 30 psi and work, done it more times than I can count. Same with an HX35, and HE351, and HE351VE, and modified HX35, etc, etc.

I clearly said it is out of its map at that point, I made NO assumptions on its effectiveness. The general discussion around compressor maps has some inherent parameters that are taken for granted. Specifically, saying a turbo is out of its compressor map means it has exceed the point where it has been determined to be most effiicient. ANY compressor will have a map that is essentially infinite, however, you will not be able to see data points on the high\low side because because they will be so close together as to be indistinguishable.

If you don't like the nomeclature lets change it to "At 30 psi a stock HX35 is out of its compressor efficiency map.". This statement in no way makes assumptions about the functionalcompressor map on a specific CPL. As I told the OP, raise the boost and see if it will work for the conditions. There is no way to say definitely it will work, only that the chances are good it will.

The real question for the OP is does he want to use what he has or something better, he has to answer that. The truth is a larger turbo will make the same air at 20 psi as the HX35 will make 30 psi, and, last a lot longer doing it while providing overhead for future changes.

 

[cerberusiam]

Good luck with that. Ego vs. experience. You and I have first hand experience in this case, but that doesn't matter to ol' cerb...

Consider this the only warning. Stay on topic and STOP the baiting.

 

[PC12Driver]

Consider this the only warning. Stay on topic and STOP the baiting.

You've got to be kidding.

 

[NIsaacs]

An HX35 is well out of its map by the time it gets to 30 psi, BUT they are beyond their useful range

My question mark was about the above quote: (Is "WELL" out of it's map by the time it gets to 30 psi) that "suggests" that in the mid to high 20's it is already on the way out and becomes useless.

Your next quote: "I clearly stated the HX35 will produce air to 30 psi AND A BIT MORE and at THAT point it is beyond it's compressor map". I agree with this statement, it mirrors my own thoughts, 30-32 psi is useful and should help the OP's truck perform just fine. At 23-24 psi it will not.

Nick

 

[cerberusiam]

My question mark was about the above quote: (Is "WELL" out of it's map by the time it gets to 30 psi) that "suggests" that in the mid to high 20's it is already on the way out and becomes useless

Yes, I hear and agree with what you are saying. IIRC, the optimal map pressure is in the low 20's so it is somewhat true that by the mid to high 20's it is exceeding its optimal point. Not useless by far, just beyond what it was configured and designed for. All I was pointing out that at those pressures it is creating more boost and DP to to its job and reducing its expected life. The other question will be whether it will support the fueling at the desired rpm, that is where ti gets tricky to decide what to do for a solution.

 

[Sticks]

I would think that RV275s, Smarty programming, and stock turbo at sea level should not be encountering high EGTs like the OP is stating. The Smarty is little more than an Edge EZ that I ran for quite a long time on my truck at 5k to 11k with 80hp injectors and never had issues with temps - I also flat out disconnected the wastegate and plugged the port in the compressor housing.

Check the boots around the aftercooler ports to see if they got cut by the fender well - common place for issues. You may have to take it somewhere to have your entire intake system pressure tested - your aftercooler may have a crack in it, or your boost gauge is wrong.

Pre turbo exhaust leaks, incorrect valve lash adjustments (ARP stud install calls for 4 separate retorque procedures - heat cool cycles - after install and that means valve lash adjustment each time), stuck wastegate or worn turbo/bearings will cause this issue as well.