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high tech turbo 62mm question

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MPG test w/programmer - increase or false claims?

dumping oil and diesel fuel!

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I just finished installing a hightech 62mm turbo... I noticed that on the factory turbo there is a sensor that goes into the turbo housing which i think is what determines how much fuel it will get (not to sure new at this).

well the new turbo that i installed does not have this sensor or any other sensor devise... am i missing a component? what am I doing wrong... do i not connect that sensor sinse i dont have any where to put it.....



help:mad:
 
Thats the electronic waste gate control. If the new turbo does not use it you will need to get a plug or make one with a resistor so the ECU does not throw codes.
 
I just finished installing a hightech 62mm turbo... I noticed that on the factory turbo there is a sensor that goes into the turbo housing which i think is what determines how much fuel it will get (not to sure new at this).

well the new turbo that i installed does not have this sensor or any other sensor devise... am i missing a component? what am I doing wrong... do i not connect that sensor sinse i dont have any where to put it.....



help:mad:



Just out of curiosity was that a super stock 62 ss ? More info if ya don't mind.
 
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it is a 6214 (b2) turbo rated up to 650 hp... im getting the check engine light.

but when i connect my programmer (diablo) and conduct a diagnostic test it advises that there are no trouble codes... . I just got back from going to the store... . the check engine light came off on its own... . If i step on it, it will come back on.
 
The ECU is not seeing resistance and throwing fault codes. You need a plug on it to keep things happy. :)
 
or take the sensor off the stock turbo, plug it back in and zip tie it up outta the way. Many have done it like that or call HTT or II and get the resistor plug to put in its place, you should have gotten one.
 
I installed essentially the same turbo (different vendor, but still an S300) and had the same issues. I removed the solonoid from the old turbo and left it plugged in. I just zip-tied it to something like a batter cable or something...



Then I had to get a Quadzilla boost fooler, because after I'd honk on it, I'd get an overboost code, and the computer would limit fuel such that I couldn't make over 30 psi boost until I cleared the code. But... the first time I exceeded about 34 psi, I'd throw the code again, and fuel would be limited.



Now I must say that the Smarty, turbo (62/12), and boost fooler are just what I've been looking for.
 
I have the same problem with an HTT Turbo

I called them they have a plug in deal but it costs $45

How big a resistor should you use?

I would rather make my own than pay $45 for the same thing
 
I have since removed my 62/12 and the quadzilla boost fooler...



I have the turbo (about 10,000 miles) and boost fooler for sale. I paid 1600 and change for the turbo, and 70 bucks for the boost fooler.



Turns out I didn't have enough fuel to keep the turbo up on spool. Need injectors...



They are both for sale for whatever they bring... .
 
Ross,



Even with no electronics, that turbo should spool, although maybe a little slower. With the smarty, it should spool almost instantly. I don't understand what you mean, "keep the turbo up on spool. "
 
Well, I could never get the smoke to clear up. I pull a large horse trailer, and I was smokin' out my horses to the point that it worried me. I could never get over 35 pound of boost, even with Smarty on 5 (towing), so I just went back to the stock unit. No more smoke problems, although I have higher EGTs and can't pull the hills as well. I think the 62/12 probably added about 50-60 horsepower. I miss the extra power, but not the smoke.



I know Smarty smokes anyway, and the truck can make smoke even with the stock turbo, but I can control it with careful use of the throttle. With the 62/12, I couldn't keep the smoke down, no matter what I did. It would even smoke a small amount at constant throttle, under load (pulling about 20K), at 65 mph.
 
If the ECM does not see the wastegate solenoid connected into the system, it will throw the ecm into limp mode. The truck will pull OK on the bottom, but defuel slightly on the top end. On a twin turbo'd engine or one with a big turbo, it is a bear when it happens. LOL The resistor can be purchased as mentioned, but the dealer should have provided it with the turbo. Or as the others mentioned, you can zip tie the factory solenoid to the frame rail and plug it in for the time being. It will make a difference in how the truck runs.
 
I got the plug that goes in the harness that connected to the WG solenoid. It's a plug with a 150 ohm resistor between the two contacts.



DON'T BUY ONE MAKE YOUR OWN and Save $45. 00
 
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