2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Highbeam indicator light, to dim with dash lights?

[Newf Limo]

I drive home at about 2:am every morning through the countryside, so I use my highbeams. . . a lot. Since I'm already tired and a bit light sensitive by that time, I turn my dashlights to full dim, and my cb lights off to make it a bit more comfortable on the eyeballs. I am amazed at just how bright the highbeam indicator light is at that point! If Dodge put as much effort at making our headlights that bright. . . ok, I won't go there. Anyways, do one of you spark chasing geniuses know how difficult it would be to change the supply wire for the indicator light, over to the power side of the dash lights so that it is dimmed appropriatly with the dimmer switch. I realize it is possible that it is powered through a circuit board, which would suck, but I'm not opposed to running a jumper either. The other thought would be, am I going to have to deal with the airbag and any of it's components to remove the instrument cluster? That would be a deal breaker. I don't care to mess with that. With my luck it would go off and I'd have a screwdriver stuck in my forehead, then my hats wouldn't fit right

 

[Jim Norton]

The high beam indicater has a separate driver(fancy word they use in the manual for source)that isn,t affected by the dash light control. This is true for trucks with DRL a least,who knows why they don't dim it with the rest of dash lights. I don't have my manual nearby,but I know this circuit is hard to get to. It might look funny but maby a stategicly located piece of tape?If you want to dig into this deeper let me know and I'll get you wire color and where to find it. Jim

 

[barbwire]

indicator

I thought I was the only one with this problem. I am glad you brought it up.

I have been thinking of mounting a small hinged piece on the dash just above the bright lite indicator, that I can swing up during daylite hours, and at nite I can let it down to cover the ind. . When in the up position, it can be held up with velcrow (or however it is spelled), or a small magnet. I was thinking that the piece that would cover the lite would be made of some kind of opaque plexiglass so that you could still see thru it. it could be cut at a triange type affair so that it would not interfere with the gauges.

Just my recent thoughts on the subject. If done nicely, it should'nt devalue your ride. FWIW

 

[rono]

I too thought I might be the only one. I have used a piece of black electrical tape on the clear plastic cover to cover the Hi beam ind. and the turn signals as they also are very bright at night. There is still enough reflection from the lights to see them without blinding me.

Ron

 

[Newf Limo]

I may just have to dig out my Multi-Meter this weekend and play around with it. It could be the first Newf Bomb for the TDR After four years, it's about time I try to bring something to the table I'll dig out my service manual, and see if I can figure out their schematic symbols and the way it is all laid out. The Scematics for F-4's, A-4's and Tomcats were so much simpler . I never though I'd say that. Now that I'm thinking about it, I'm thinking a small dimmer switch right about where you were talking about a hinged piece of opaque plex on a hinge. . . hmmm.

 

[Un-Hemi]

Remember when Hi-beam indicators were red??

While you're in there, please have a look to see how difficult it might be to change the color of the indicator from blue to red. Red indicators are MUCH easier on the eyes than the stupid blue ones. I did convert one of my older vehicles to a red indicator, and was way happier with it!



I WILL change the indicator in the diesel-truck! (and the minivan, too!)



Thanks!



Tom

 

[Newf Limo]

Here is whatI'm thinking...

From the Multi-Function Switch Pin-Out (cav 20) Circuit L3 (14 RD/OR) I can cut the wire and run it to a Relay as my relay energizing power supply line instead of to the Highbeam indicator light. I can then have the relay switch power on to my indicator light, fed from my instrument cluster light's power supply line and it will match the bright/dim power of the rest of the instrument cluster. Right? Sounds good to me. I'll see if I can make a run to radio shack today and play around with it.



Feel free to advise. . .



D

 

[Newf Limo]

Wait on that. . .

 

[Newf Limo]

Actually, I can do all of this at the light. The yellow wire from the Junction block C-8 (page 8W-80-51) Cav 4 Circuit F73 20 YL , could be my relay energizing power and tap into Joint Connector # 5 E2/22/OR for my power supply line to my indicator light through the relay.



The previous post is incorrect.

 

[RT66DOC]

Newf Limo - I just read your posts and my brain hurts. I think I'll try the tape over the light thingy first. I also like the idea of changing from blue to red. How could we do that - change the bulb?



Now here's another one that drives me nuts ---> the BRIGHT ORANGE 4X4 engaged light.

 

[Newf Limo]

Well, now for some answers. . .



I have my instrument cluster out and it is solid state but not a problem. There are 2 junction blocks behind the cluster that supply all the power to the various components. All the instrument lights are run from the Orange wire(s) and are supplied thru the headlamp switch and are also run thru the dimmer switch. There is a grey block on the left and a black block on the right. Naturally, they don't give you much room or wire to work with . The grey block (on right) has a Red/Grey wire running to it that goes to the Highbeam indicator light. If I can find a relay today, I will use the Red/grey wire to energize the relay, and tap into one of the many orange wires through my relay to supply dimmable power to my Highbeam indicator light .



Changing colors. . .



The bulb is white That means that there is a small piece of blue plastic fastened into the face of the instrument cluster. If you put a red bulb in you will most likely have a purple indicator light. I can't see trying to remove and replace the plastic blue "lens", you'd probably destroy the cluster facing. I think this will be an easy BOMB, except for the lack of work space, but is certainly do-able. Of course I haven't wired up a relay in 20 years rolleyes: Can't believe I can say that) but it's gotta' be like riding a bike .



Since my Heated mirror Relay/timer/switch has apparently died, it's an opportunity to yank it out and get a replacement for what I am sure will be a hefty price .



I will probably use the instrument supply wire (orange) going to the lights in the pod that holds the Climate controls, only because there is more wire to work with.



Here is my only dilema. The orange wires are all 22ga. and the H/B indicator light has a Red/Grey 20ga. wire, yet it is a smaller bulb . I can't find anything or have any reason to believe that it does anything more than run that bulb then terminate there. Why the extra heft in wiring?????

 

[Newf Limo]

Frustrating...

Well, it took awhile to get this done, as I had to stop and yank a "lesser" pick-up out of a ditch. They had blown a steer tire and lost it. Coulda' been real bad, one foot away from a culvert that would have either flipped 'em or stopped them dead in their tracks. . . kids The small crowed that had gathered was pretty amazed though. Four low and no no throttle and it dragged him through the snow up the hill and out of the ditch. Yep, it impressed me too, but I had to act like I do it all the time







So, It is all wired up but it isn't working right. The High beam indicator light wire (red/Grey) is constant hot when headlights switched off and cold when lights are on, until you hit the high beams. Any ways, It's running the relay as expected. I ran my "dimmable" power, borrowed from my instrument cluster lights, through the relay and that works too. . . except, the high beam indicator light dimms opposite of my instrument lights . Yes, the dash lights dim and the indicator gets brighter. Raise the dash lights and the indicator light dims #@$%!



Any suggestions????

 

[Jim Norton]

Newf Limo,I'm getting a brain cramp trying to follow thru to the point of being able tell exactly where,but the "backwards" dim is probably due to the or. wire that goes to the heater control can feed back thru the mode select switch with all sorts of possibilitys. Look at 8w-42-4 in the manual. Between that and these things being negitive swicthed on many things(thats why you found the RD/GRY hot,it comes from batt. straight to the bulb)it can be a real nightmare trying to fool "Mother DC". Just think if we didn't have these trucks we'd have to find a hobby! Jim

 

[Bill Lins]

To get back to "draining the swamp", since the indicator is a separate bulb, how about painting it with translucent paint to cut down on its brightness?

 

[Newf Limo]

I run with my headlights on constantly. I'd like to be able to tell if they are on High in the day or night and in between. That's why I am trying to get them to dim with my dash lights. If I painted the bulb, that may be ok for night but that's the only time I'd be able to tell what they are set on. I appreciate the suggestion though.



My next idea, is adding a little variable resistor (dimmer switch) and use only the Red/Grey wire, in hopes of accomplishing what I want without feedback through the dash lights supply side. How can something that should be so simple and straight forward be so damn difficult. Positive and negative grounding in the same system gimme a break.

 

[Brand-X]

I had this same problem ( lights dimming opposite ) when I put some gages in my sons car one time. the trouble tuned out to be a grounding issue ? could the relay need a separate ground wire ? maybe its grounding through the indicator bulb like when you wire turn signal lights in a series so the flash opposite.

 

[Newf Limo]

I grounded the relay directly to the metal framework around the steering column. I'm not sure what my options would be here. What do you suggest?

 

[Josparkz]

I cut a couple of pieces of static cling type window tint and put them over the light. Dims them right down.

If you don't have that, a piece of scotch tape and a magic marker will work.

 

[RT66DOC]

Josparkz - my kinda guy. :-laf

How about making stripes on the scotch tape?? Or a tiny little picture??

 

[wtrenholm]

The hi beam ind is ground side switched. That's why it has power all the time. The instrument panel lights are feed side switched. I think the headlights went from feed switches to ground switches in 99 when the head lamp switch changed from the push pull switch.



Here's an idea, not sure if it'll work or not. If you can find a zener diode that will reverse bias at an acceptable voltage, you could use it to feed a relay coil. The relay would be able to make the hi beam ind dim at a specified voltage in the dash light circuit.



Use a five pin ISO relay.

Pins 85 & 86 for the control coil using the zener diode.

Pin 30 would go to the ind light.

Pin 87 would feed the ind light when relay is energized (diode biased)

Pin 87A would feed the ind light using a resistor to dim it when the relay is de-energized. (diode below bias voltage)



This is off the top of my head and maybe a more knowledgeable electronics guy can fine tune the diode aspect regarding application and current flow (be able to handle 300-400 milliamps).



Maybe it'll work maybe it won't.



Wayne