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Higher capacity clutch -- manners in snow, ice, and slick conditions?

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CTD12V

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This is sort of a long range planning question for me, but here goes . . .



I am thinking about getting a Con OFE clutch down the road, if I do a 6-speed swap. My question is, how does this clutch work when you are off roading or trying to get moving in very slick conditions, where it is necessary to slip the clutch quite a bit to avoid breaking the tires loose in snow, ice, mud, etc. I have heard that the OFE is somewhat grabbier than the stock clutch, since it is obviously designed to handle higher torque and heavier loads. Does this cause a problem for any of you guys that use your truck for more than just high power, good traction applications?



Thanks,



CTD12V
 
I did not notice any change at all. I have always felt that these were hard to get going on ice. My truck is the only one we have with a non stock clutch, and they all feel the same to me.
 
I have the OFE in my '96, I upgraded to the larger size clutch, and the first thing I thought when I drove the truck was "Wow, did they send me the wrong clutch??" It drives great, smooth easy engagement, no issue in the snow at all. The only drawback I have is backing up, it is grabbier in reverse and makes the truck jumpy when trying to ease into it to back up slowly when parking a trailer.
 
I just put a 13" con-oFE in my 99, and I've got the same reaction as Vaughn. VERY smooth engagement, and works well all the way around. I will do some sort of a 2lo kit (lockout hubs, vacuum switch, ?) to get a good low speed reverse primarily.

Something else I'd suggest that you look at, getting the SBC hydraulic set. Turns out that my stock set was not fully engaging. And the SBC set has an adjustable pedal as well.
 
That's good to know. Thanks for the advice, guys.



I do have to agree that these trucks (ext. cab, at least) can be a little hard to get going in slick conditions. I think that is fairly common with any long wheelbase truck. I had a 1997 Ram 2500 Club Cab flatbed stuck in the snow a few years ago at the ranch I used to work for, and my coworker laughed at me and said, "You just need power and traction", and proceeded to feather the clutch at probably about 1300 -1400 RPM and got it out of the drift. I don't know how he found the sweet spot, since I had tried the same thing previously before he got it out, but I guess I have gotten a little better at it with my own truck since then.



Anyways, I have always thought about that incident when people start talking about higher rated clutches being grabbier and engaging more rapidly. Obviously, I try not to make a regular practice out of slipping the clutch very much, but sometimes you just gotta do what it takes. I'm glad to hear the Con OFE seems to have pretty good manners. Thanks also for the tip on the SBC hydraulics.



CTD12V
 
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To be honest, the FE clutch is not all that much grabbier than the OFE and it will hold higher HP/Torque.

If you are considering upgrading the transmission to a 6-speed, get the 13" conversion now. I have run many different clutches, and have found SBCs to be the best riding clutches.
 
I wouldn't slip the single disk clutchs at 1400 rpm to get out of a snow drift???:eek::eek: thats just asking to burn it up. . the clutch is designed to be engaged and work ... ie not slip. . if you want to slip it alot, get a dual disk. . much better for that driving style...
 
I wouldn't slip the single disk clutchs at 1400 rpm to get out of a snow drift???:eek::eek: thats just asking to burn it up. . the clutch is designed to be engaged and work ... ie not slip. . if you want to slip it alot, get a dual disk. . much better for that driving style...





I am guessing at the RPM he was using, since I was standing outside the truck at the time. I just know it was higher than the RPM I was using. I agree about trying to not subject a single disk clutch to that kind of slippage. It certainly isn't a regular occurance. ;) What is it like driving a dual disk clutch?
 
driving a dual disk. . well the one I had was a enterprise dual disk pulling clutch. . you used the clutch to start and stop etc. . you shifted by floated the gears with out using the clutch . . pedal was stiff. . you couldn't shift it fast etc. . I have heard some of the lighter dual disks can be shifted faster and with the clutch like a single disk. . but I have never driven one yet. .



just my experience

Deo
 
CTD12V... .



I have converted from an auto (with goodies) to a 6spd/CON-OFE.



Personally, I feel as though there is a much better feel all around, wet, dry, snow, etc. with the manual. My auto had a performance torque converter, valve body, and was rebuilt by a reputable shop. Tires would just start spinning in snow as soon as I let off the brake pedal.



HTH
 
CTD12V... .



I have converted from an auto (with goodies) to a 6spd/CON-OFE.



Personally, I feel as though there is a much better feel all around, wet, dry, snow, etc. with the manual. My auto had a performance torque converter, valve body, and was rebuilt by a reputable shop. Tires would just start spinning in snow as soon as I let off the brake pedal.



HTH



Yeah, I'm a manual transmission guy--my truck has the NV4500 anyways, but down the road I would like to bump up my power. According to Quad 4x4, much over 600 lb/ft of torque and the time between rebuilds of the NV4500 begins to drop rapidly, hence my interest in a G56 conversion. Which in turn leads me to this discussion . . . :)
 
My experience is that the SBC 3200 dual disc w/ sprung hub doesn't like to slip with the engine running at idle rpms. It will slip a little, but then it grabs unless you have the rpms up around 1200 - 1300 - 1400 like the previous poster said. Revved up like that, you can slip it without getting the grabbing and put down just the torque you need in a low traction situation rather than spinning the tires. The great thing about it though is that when it's engaged, it's engaged. There is no slipping like with the oem model.
 
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