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"Home Made 2003 3500 SRW"?

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'03 Dually Rear End Whine!!!

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You can't get some combinations of the '03 3500 SRW - like the regular cab with a long bed to get the 140. 5" WB. I ordered the DRW, and I expect to use it as a DRW; but I suspect I could make it an SRW fairly easilly. All it would take is to exchange the DRW bed for a 3500 SRW bed (or a 2500 bed), and subsitute single wheels and tires on the back. If I shopped around for wheels and tires, I may be able to find something rated for 4000 pounds each - resulting in an SRW with the door post GVWR of 12,000 pounds instead of 9,000. Which leads to the question: Why is the availability of the SRW so restricted? It seems odd they don't offer what the buyer can do without all the resources of the factory. Does anyone see any practical reasons this could not be done? I understand the rear axel is a little shorter, but wheels could be ordered with the offset to correct that.
 
You don't need to swap the beds to make an SRW. The dually fender extensions are held on with perimeter adhesive, and they are relatively easy to remove. The bed is painted underneath.



As far as the wheels, you'd have to remove the hub/lug extensions from both axles to be able to use normal wheels, otherwise, you'd be stuck with the dually wheels in the convex position.



As to why the 3500 SRW is only available as a Quad Cummins, they want to market this model to the towing crowd. The regular cab 2500 and 3500 DRW are spaced enough capacity-wise that the 3500 SRW regular cab is probably not needed.
 
Thanks for the help. I am not sure what is involved in removing the lug extensions, but it has got to be less trouble than replacing the truck bed. With it being a matter of rear wheels and tires, I now need to decide if it is something I should seriously consider. The reduced body width should help in parking lots.



My reason for wanting the regular cab is it will only carry 1 or 2 people 99. 9% of the time (adult kids), I wanted the 8" bed for cargo and possible full size camper, and the 140. 5" WB for manuverability and parking. The 2500 RC has a load capacity of about 2400 pounds (not enough for me). If they had made a 3500 SRW RC it would have had a load capacity of about 3300 pounds - which would be enough for my needs. The 3500 RC DRW has a capacity of over 5000 pounds - a bit more than I need. The range between the 2500 RC and the 3500 DRW RC is actually much wider than seems reasonable.



If I can just remove the DRW fenders and replace the wheels and tires, I will have a 140. 5" WB heavy duty SRW with the load capacity and bed length that will meet my needs. I still don't understand why Dodge does not offer it as a factory option.
 
You will probably need to pull the front hub extensions off too (if 4x4).



Isn't the rear axle wider with the 1ton drums? This should only be a issue if you plan to run larger overall wheels/tires.



As for wheel with a greater capacity try Rickson's 19. 5". I believe that 6. 75" width are rated at 3500# and you can get tires that are much more than that from them.



I have a steel set on order. Dan at Rickson says that best use for the Load Range G & H's are for SRW with big slide ins.



I would think this would help a 5th too in terms of stability. Traction and braking will suffer for SRW.
 
Now you lost me. Why would I need to do anything to the front axel? At most I would think I need to get a set of 4 tires, on the same size wheels, so they have the same number of revolutions per mile since it is a 4x4. The front and rear wheels may be offset from center a little differently so they end up the same width apart (which will be a problem for the spare). Can you be more specific? Are you thinking that if I remove the front extensions I can get matching offset wheels for all 4 corners? Also, what tires are you planning to put on your Rickson 19. 5's? Where do I look for Rickson wheels?
 
I understood the 12,000 GVWR is for the DRW, which is why I qualified it as the "door post" rating. My point is that everything except the wheels and tires would be rated for 12,000 GVW, and if I shop for single wheels and tires capable of 4,000 pounds each the truck should be able to handle up to 12,000 pounds even in the "Home Made SRW" form. I assume Dodge and the local DOT may have a different view; but with the higher capacity wheels and tires I would feel better if I ever had to "overload" it above the 9,000 GVWR of the 2500, or even the 9,900 GVWR of the 3500 factory SRW. With the stock wheels and tires on the 3500 factory SRW, I would be less sure about an overload.
 
DBVZ, if you plan to run the SRW wheels & tires you will need to remove the front axle extentions or your tires will stick out a mile beyond the fender!



The extensions are put on the front so that the high-offset wheels designed for DRW can be rotated to all positions and line up properly in the front.



The rear axle should be correct as-is, I believe, just remove the two tires/wheels and replace with the single-type wheel. Someone correct me here if I'm wrong, I've never looked at a DRW & SRW parked side-by-side.



You might want to come by the NW BOMBers website, Rob Hanson lives in Enumclaw and we often get together for BOMB parties and such at his place, one of the NW BOMBers would be glad to help out with pointers and such :)



Vaughn
 
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Ok. Got it. If I want to use the same size and same offset(replacement) wheels and tires all around I need to remove the front axel extensions. If I just change tires on the existing wheels in front, and replace the rear wheels and tires, I don't. I still need a source for replacement wheels and tires. Dan Gilson recommended Rickson 19. 5 wheels. I am not familiar with them, or what tires fit that would not be a huge change in the revolutions per mile from stock. It may be simpler to use the 17" SRW wheels all around, and LT315/70R17D T/A KO BFG tires, but that would change the effective gear ratio's quite a bit.
 
To each his own but I still don't get it? The dual rear wheels don't stick out as far as the front mirrors. A regular cab dually is not a big deal to drive and park? I have had both the 3500QC 4x4 and now the 3500RC 4x4 and the regular cab is like no problem at all. It is 20" shorter than the Quad cab. This is no big deal, not compared to what you will go through to change it, plus the $$$ :confused: I suggest you drive one for a day and see what I mean. Good luck.



PS - This might not mean anything in your decision process, but the Regular Cab 3500 4x4 is the best looking truck Dodge makes period :cool:
 
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Pit Bull,



Actually, I agree with you. This all started with. "You can't get some combinations of the '03 3500 SRW - like the regular cab with a long bed to get the 140. 5" WB. I ordered the DRW, and I expect to use it as a DRW; but I suspect I could make it an SRW fairly easilly. " I still expect to leave it a DRW, but wanted to explore the options if I found the width to be a problem. I also wondered (and am still wondering) why Dodge does not offer the RC 3500 with SRW. It makes no sense to me that they don't. The RC DRW is a great looking truck, and the cab is big enough we did not think the rear seat was needed.
 
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Originally posted by DBVZ

Pit Bull,

The RC DRW is a great looking truck, and the cab is big enough we did not think the rear seat was needed.



I know what you mean, I wanted the RC all along but bought a used QC. No one ever sat back in the back seat. So I got a chance to by this RC and jumped on it :D Good luck and you will love your new truck. :cool:
 
I can take some measurements this weekend if you want me to, just ask. I have a set of one ton Dana 60's that are regular width and my truck I can measure. I know for sure that you will need to remove the front dually spacer and I believe the rear end is shorter by at least a few inches.



Here's the specs for GM axles, it's not Dodge but I think they would be very close.



GM Dana 60 front (single wheel) ... ... ... ... ... ... . 69"



GM Dana 60 front (dual rear wheel) ... ... ... ..... 77" ; +4" on each side vs single wheel



GM 14 Bolt rear FF (single wheel) ... ... ... ... ... ..... 67"



GM 14 Bolt rear FF (dual wheel)... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 63"



The part past the rotor is what you will need to remove, I believe you will need to install new studs after removal also.

#ad




IMHO I think you are in for more work that you think. Easy? No. Doable? Yes. :D
 
if you want to use the same bed, it'll need sheetmetal work. A portion of the fender liner is cut off with a sawzall (no joke) before the fiberglass fenders are put on.
 
I agree with Pit as far as the looks of the DRW although I confess to being partial to the quad ;) . Another consideration is that you mentioned a heavy truck camper. I have had a heavy truck camper on both a srw and drw and there is absolutely no doubt in my mind that the handling charactoristics of the drw are far superior to the srw.



Dean
 
Since Dodge is no longer using Dana axels, perhaps I need to check the new ones on the truck when I get it - about 4 weeks out I think. These last two posts have confirmed me in the decision to leave it a DRW. Thank you all for your comments. The TDR is a great source of expert advice.



PS: My optional "signature" showed up once, but not again. Does anyone have any idea why that would happen? I checked the Profile, and it is still there. Thanks.
 
Unfortunately, helper springs won't get the GVWR increased. I was looking for a way to work down from the 12,000 GVWR truck. As noted earlier, I will leave it a DRW.
 
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