Here I am

Home water conditioners & drink water systems

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Credit Cards: what's your favorite?

Old Tombstones

Brand new Home well water. Had the water tested by an expert and here's the result.

1. Iron . 4 ppm Ferris, level should be . 3

2. Manganese . 05 ppm, level should be . 05

3. Hardness 56 pg , don't know what it should be

4. pH 5. 7 should be around 7



I have very little staining in sinks and bathroom toilets and very little smell on clothes.



They recommended a Neutralizer with a Backwashing filter and Water Conditioner plus Reverse Osmosis Drinking water system. Must admit it is a good system by KINETICO, their system doesn't use Electricity, time clocks or computers, it all works with water pressures and timers, condition water is always available during regeneration and internal components operate in conditioned water. Their system only regenerates based on amount of water used and not by a preset interval like electronic systems therefore conserving water and salt but all of this and more doesn't come cheap. $3790. 00 for the system plus $745. 00 for the Drinking water system, total $4535. 00 + tax.



Can I tackle this on my own? How are the systems from Home Depot or Lowe's? I know they might not be as good as the KINETICO but I could save some$$$



Sorry for the long post, your advice and recommendations are appreciated,



Fred.
 
Fred, I can tell you from experience that the Kinetico system is great and trouble free, I would say that if you plan on staying with this property that make the investment with Kinetico and be done with it. The water I treated was much worse than what you have. I tried many other types of filteration systems first but none did the job close to what the Kinetico system did.



cheers, Kevin
 
I just had a Kinetico model 50 water softener installed about a week ago. I am on city water and the hardness is about 9 grains per gallon. Not too high, but hard enough to want a conditioner. I paid about $1800 for the unit and $200 for installation. I am on a rent to buy plan where I pay $70 / month rent for the first year. If I pay off the unit at that time, all of my rent applies to the purchase. Basically interest free loan for 12 months. The unit has a 10 year warranty. I am thrilled with it.



Here's their website. You might want to call them and see if they can help you find a good dealer with reasonable pricing in your area. Ask for Roy McRew at 520-792-9700.



http://www.oasish2o.com/
 
My iron was tested at 1. 5mg/L when I bought my house. I had remediation for water, radon, etc. so the seller put a system in. The system is made by a company called Ecowater. It is described as a acid neutlizer system model 2100PF12. The install in 1998 was 1,404. How it compares, I don't know with the one your looking at. It backwashes the excess iron molecules at a set time. It is not loud so I have it set to backwash at night.



The installer told me it did not need regular service. One year later, the dealer calls to set up service. ??? Okay, I let them come out. I was busy so I let the guy go in my basement to check the unit. About a minute later he come up, waves and leaves. I get a bill for $100!!!! I don't use them anymore.



I had not touched it for since then (99') so I need to have my water tested to see how it's working before I find another place to service it if indeed it does need servicing. My water does not smell like iron but it did before the system so I think it still works. We use bottled water regardless for drinking because we are surrounded by farmland and having large animals.



I don't see why you can't do your own install. You can always call for backup at a fee right? Don't waste time and money on just a filter and not a backwash system. You will constantly be plagued with low water pressure from the filter blocking up.
 
Most of these outfits that sell water softeners / purifiers etc. are just rip-off artists. Their profit margins on these systems are HUGE! They rank right up there with storm window and used car salesmen!



That being said, the systems themselves can be beneficial. Do some research. Check out the commercial systems that places like Grainger sell. If you are uncomfortable with plumbing you can subcontract the installation to a plumber. Believe me, you'll save a ton of money.
 
One problem is your PH. You PH is around the acidity of Orange Juice. You need to raise that to as close to 7 as you can. This low PH will eat the lead out of the solder joints in the pipe, and we all know what lead does to Kids.



I think the reason they want you to run reverse osmoses is to remove the other stuff from the drinking water.



I also have been down the routes of the "rip off water equipment Sellers" but had researched enough to know what I really needed before calling them. (I live next to a super cleanup site)





To raise the PH with a level this low you need a system that has its own tank, where Calcium Carbonate (I think thats what it is) is mixed with water, then its injected into another tank to mix with the water as the well pump runs. Then can be a PITA to setup as you will be checking PH levels, then turning the mixing pump up or down until its right. (this is the system I should have)



I bought a tank that water runs through, and its full of Calcium Carbonate (I think). The water has to pass through this tank on its way to the house. It raised the PH some, but not enough. This system I bought also has a manual back flush knob, again PITA to remember to back flush it once per week. (if you don't backflush, the Calcium can become a big rock and your tank will be shot as you can't refill it)



But my house has CPVC pipes so I don't need the PH up to 7.



I would also recommend getting one of those spring water dispensers that take the 5 gallon jugs. I think I spend $25. 00 per month for rental + 4-5 gallon jugs delivered to the front door.

It taste great, and I know its being tested at the plant much more often then I test my tap water. :)



Then about 6 years ago the EPA came through and installed city water for free as part of the Super fund clean up program (thanks guys! your taxes paid for this!)



Now I got to keep my well for watering the plants, washing the truck, etc, plus I have city water for taking showers, but I kept the spring water for drinking, I hate the taste of city water.







Originally posted by HEYBOSS

Brand new Home well water. Had the water tested by an expert and here's the result.

1. Iron . 4 ppm Ferris, level should be . 3

2. Manganese . 05 ppm, level should be . 05

3. Hardness 56 pg , don't know what it should be

4. pH 5. 7 should be around 7





Fred.
 
Originally posted by QRTRHRS

With a brand new home, there should not be lead in the solder unless the plumber has some old stock on hand?
That's right, lead free solder has been the norm for years. But low pH will eat the copper eventually.



Guess I lucked out, rented a softener for a couple months then told them I didn't like dumping salt into the septic system, come get it.

That was almost three years ago, they never came, bills quit coming, installed the softener in the greenhouse to keep the calcium from clogging the misters.
 
Thanks for the replies, keep'm coming.



The guy that tested the water did tell me that pH is corrosive and can cause problems. His system is simple and uses a twin tank Backwashing filter which automatically backwashes based on water volume used, also the conditioner uses twin tanks, it seems to be a very reliable and simple system with minimal maintenance.



I've been squeezing them a little and got them to do installation for free plus 1yr no interest no payments, they also will throw in an upgraded QuickFlo storage tank for the water filtration which you'll never run out of drinking water. Their warranty seems good too, 7 years.



I'll still check other systems to see what's out there, I know this one is around $1000. 00 more than others I've seen which require more maintenance.



Fred.
 
Drinking water for 23 years 4 months and 9 days.

Let me guess your well is a shallow 24" bore. But on the other hand I am not familiar with the minerals down deep in the ground of Mass.

The Mn. has me puzzled. It is a mineral of decayed vegetation. We have had it up to 6. 0 ppm dissolved. Turns everything black. But look on the positive side Mn. is listed on your vitamins.

Your copper will be paper thin in 8 to 10 years. Get that PH up to what ever the Baylis curve reccomends. I would use caustic soda to raise the PH and alkalinity. It will not raise the hardness.

Sinse I work at a lake (surface water treatment plant) we use flocculaters and setteling basins before filtering the water to remove the bulk of the undesirable characteristic's. So I am not up on the fancy filters and reverse osmosis.

I do know one thing for sure,before buying a system allow your well to stabilize. New wells are known for being full of sand grit and other minerals. I would use as much water as possible for 2 months have it retested then go from there. Go to the closest well of the same type( bore or deep drill )on your road and find out what minerals they have. Chances are your water will not only become better (except for PH)but you might find out what your neighbors are removing minerals with.

Check out something called greensand filters.

I would make up my own filter if I had your water and treat it myself.

Just for kicks take a gallon of your well water add 1/2 teaspoon of soda shake well then add 1/4 teaspoon bleach shake well allow it to sit in the sun for an hour or 2. Report your results on what it looks like.

If our city has iron in the water system from flushing hydrants we give out a product called Rover rust remover for the customers to wash their clothes with. It will remove stains like magic.

Please let us know if your well is a 24" bore or the deep drilled type. List how deep it is.

I love working with water look foward to helping others. I could type all day about water.

Got to go, yes I'm at work.

Tim
 
Skydiver

Thanks for the info and your time. Well is about 130' deep. neighbors aren't really concerned with their water as I am except one next door which installed the Kinetico system and highly recommended it to me. Some of the neighbors have whole house filters to filter out sediment, I've also installed one of those filters when I moved in. One of my concerns is also appliances and water heaters being ruined from bad water. When weather clears up I'll do that soda in water test and report.

From what I was told the reverse osmosis drinking water is one of the best systems around. I did some research on the KINETICO system and it is a good system. It has been featured in bunch of magazines like Popular Science, Better Homes & Gardens, Consumers Digest, Bob Villa's shows and many more.



Thanks,



Fred.
 
Radon - politics aside.

Fred, is there any radon in your area? Your post prompted me to dig out the test papers from when I bought my house. The radon was high so that was mitigated too. The seller, an elderly woman sold and built a house along with her daughter about 50 miles south of me. She was not happy about mitigating this house to sell then finding out her well water had radon. I don't know what for system she had to have installed nor have I bothered to research that aspect. I just thought I would toss this into the discussion.
 
Re: Radon - politics aside.

QRTRHRS



Looks like your just on the north side of the Radon belt that goes through this side of PA (I am on the south side of it) Have you ever tested your basement for Radon?







Originally posted by QRTRHRS

Fred, is there any radon in your area? Your post prompted me to dig out the test papers from when I bought my house. The radon was high so that was mitigated too. The seller, an elderly woman sold and built a house along with her daughter about 50 miles south of me. She was not happy about mitigating this house to sell then finding out her well water had radon. I don't know what for system she had to have installed nor have I bothered to research that aspect. I just thought I would toss this into the discussion.
 
TowPro, we did have radon. You missed that part in my post. Being on the north side of the Blue Mountain, people don't much think about it here. My last house was mitigated. No big deal, I bought it that way, sold it that way. Anyway, it was an eye opener for the locals when the test came back 45. 4 pCi/L. The EPA guideline is <4. 0 pCi/L. The test results post mitigation are 1. 9 pCi/L.



By the way, it was easy to mitigate. The floor was poured with 2x4's around the parimeter just in case of ground water problems. No water problem so the contractor riveted plastic angles over the gap. On one end of the basement, he breached the plastic cover with 3" PVC, ran it up the wall and along the center beam. It tees with another vent pipe on the other end, goes out the wall where an inline fan puts a vacuum on it. The pipe runs up the outside wall above the roof a bit just like a chiimney or something.
 
Sorry, I guess "midigated" means you put the fix in to remove the Radon?



I have 4" plastic pipe run under my basement floor, that goes into a large sump bucket. If I have the problem I just would pop a lid on that sump and vent it. Never did test for it though, non of the neighbors have the problem on the ridge I live on.



Originally posted by QRTRHRS

TowPro, we did have radon. You missed that part in my post. Being on the north side of the Blue Mountain, people don't much think about it here. My last house was mitigated. No big deal, I bought it that way, sold it that way. Anyway, it was an eye opener for the locals when the test came back 45. 4 pCi/L. The EPA guideline is <4. 0 pCi/L. The test results post mitigation are 1. 9 pCi/L.



By the way, it was easy to mitigate. The floor was poured with 2x4's around the parimeter just in case of ground water problems. No water problem so the contractor riveted plastic angles over the gap. On one end of the basement, he breached the plastic cover with 3" PVC, ran it up the wall and along the center beam. It tees with another vent pipe on the other end, goes out the wall where an inline fan puts a vacuum on it. The pipe runs up the outside wall above the roof a bit just like a chiimney or something.
 
Back
Top