Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) homebrew timing adjustments?

[Nick2]

Hey guys,



I was planning on heading up to the twin cities last weekend to do my timing with the MNTDR but plans changed (suprise suprise). Has anyone advanced their timing by just marking the gear on the shaft and moving it a bit. I know it's not technical, but it would be cheap and easy - please forgive my shoddy work ethic.



thanks, Nick

 

[SDrake]

I changed mine by marking the crankshaft damper at TDC and then placing a mark on it that corresponded to 3. 5 deg advance so as to take from 12. 5 to 16. I read about some others on TDR doing the same and so decided to try it. I am convinced that I got to a point 3. 5 degress advanced from where it was. Checked by referencing damper position with the pump pinned and then observing how far the damper is from TDC. What I don't know is if that is actually 16 degrees. I suppose due to wear the pump may not be giving the delivery valve lift that corresponds to 12. 5 degrees at the same rotation point that it did when new. All I did was reference the original 12. 5 degrees (so they say) on the pump. I don't worry much about all that because:



I got the expected results for 3. 5 degrees of advance. I get less smoky starts when cold, it pulls smooth right off whereas it used to run like a over choked gas engine for half a block or so, even in warm weather. And a genuine 1. 5 mpg increase WOW. Tracked over past 2K miles. Never got that good before. One 900 mile trip got 24 MPG cruising at 60MPH. I did get 23 on that same trip a few years ago.



If I had the gauges I would use them but I am convinced I have helped the truck without them. A really strong gear puller is a must and a basic understanding of the mechanics will go a long way. Once I decided to go for it, it wasn't the big deal I was expecting by listening to all the talk about it.

 

[Heepdriver]

I have just randomly tried about a dozen dofferent timing adjustment. the problem with doing it without a guage is sometime the pump jumps. And you end up off in never land. final tightening of the pump nut and it moves a little more advanced. It is hard to get it to line up just right and marks are only so good. i think that someone said the width of a pencil mark is half a degree. I would say go for it. take your time and set aside plenty of time. have no idea where my trucks timing is but it runs beter than ever.



Oh and you need a new lockwasher for your injection pump nut.

 

[Nick2]

Thanks for the ideas/ help guys!

 

[Bart]

Is there anyway of learning more about this process? I'd be interested but too little information right here for me to tie into it.

Thanks.

 

[SDrake]

PM me and I will try to figure out what you need to know and then post it.



Basically you have to know how to measure or locate TDC for the crank, how to pin the pump and how to measure off the number of degrees you want to move timing. There are other things to know such as cleaning the oil completely out of the mating surfaces between the pump gear and shaft, proper torque etc. You can read about all this stuff by searching on pump timing or just timing and by reading the FAQ at the top of the 2nd gen discussion board.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

After seeing how much my pump would squirt around when torquing down the nut I wouldn't even think of trying it without the gauge. When I was shooting for 15. 8* I was ending up anywhere between 14 and 17. 5 last week when I was setting my timing! I've done timing 4 times before but for some reason it was out to lunch this time.



If you use the above method be sure and check final position with the pump's timing pin before you fire up.



Vaughn

 

[CEdwards]

I've never done timing on my diesel before so bear with my dumb questions. I am getting ready to do my kdp and during my research here it looked like there are white marks on the pump and cam gear that line up at tdc. Is this correct? line up 2 white marks at tdc and this should correspond with the pin to lock the pump at tdc, correct? So with a dial indicator put in #1 injector with the engine in this position would tell me where my timing is now? If the pin locks in place and white marks don't align does this mean my timing has been changed from factory settings? I'm not even sure if the white marks were put on there at the factory or what, I just saw them in a pic and someone mentioned them. I'm just trying to learn all I can before I dig in to this project. I'll think about this for a while before I ask any more questions and confuse myself. I am just looking for a way to see where I'm at now for a referance and maybe bump timing up later without buying tools. Thanks for the knowledge.

 

[DBraunig]

We just checked a friend of mine's 98 that should have been 14* according to the data plate... but it had slipped itself back to 11*. i think that is one of the benefits of using the tools, you can see where timing is really at before you adjust it. if we had used this method the truck would only be at 14. 5 now (3. 5 jump) and i am sure it would have run better but it still would not have been what we wanted. you also have to remember that once you pop the gear loose you need to back up about 30* and then come at it again so that you remove any slack in the gears that may alter your readings. that and the fact that too much timing is hard on head gaskets/high cylinder pressures would make me want to use the dials every time. MHO

Dave.