Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) hooking up fuel pressure

[zstroken]

what is everyones take on hooking up fuel pressure? I have an autometer with mechanical isolator, Banjo bolt from Geno's. I have heard people use a grease gun hose? Is the fitting on the banjo bolt a 1/8' NPT?? I can only get the hose in there a few turns before it stops. Any info is greatly appreciated

 

[lsenus]

Which mechanical gauge did you buy? I bought one with the isolator #4313.

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I called autometer after the fact, and they told me that gauge was NOT rated for use with diesel fuel.

They did say that the electrical FP gauge #4361 WAS rated for use with diesel fuel.

I used a 12" grease gun hose as a snubber from the outlet side of the filter housing to the sender unit. So far so good. I have smooth pressure reading across the scale.

 

[Pit Bull]

Look at the last issue of the TDR. It gives complete instructions for install of a FP guage.

 

[zstroken]

I just joined TDR so i don't have that issue. What the not rated for diesel fuel? it must be the rubber isolator that is not rated for it, or the are thinking using after the injection pump with is very high pressure

 

[lsenus]

I think it's the rubber membrane in the isolator. I told them where I was measureing the pressures, and what the range would be.

 

[jtisdale]

fuel pressure hook-up

I have the same gauge/isolator as you. My gauge is in the bottom of a threepod A-pillar, and the isolator is mounted to the firewall right behind the master cylinder.

First I hooked to the injection pump with a braided ss line to the isolator and I had 2-3 psi fluctuation on the gauge. I didnt like that at all, so I moved it back to the outlet side of the fuel filter, again no rubber line, only the braided ss. I still had fluctuation but it was not as bad, more like a 1 psi swing. Then about a week later the lift pump died. Now I have a new lift pump in, and the fluctuation is completely gone.

Some have reported using a grease gun hose will reduce the "hammer" effect causing the fluctuation. It is also a lot cheaper. I think the 30" ss line I bought to hook from the isolator to the banjo was $35 or so.

I guess this really doesnt answer your question, does it? Just a little insight.

 

[rcaldwell]

Fuel pressure

I also use the autometer gauge with isolator. After hearing these posts i called autometer and asked if these gauges would work with diesel fuel. They said it was ok to use with diesel fuel as long as the pressure is within the specs of the gauge and isolator.

 

[lsenus]

I guess it depends on which tech you talk to about the gauge.

 

[Tomeygun]

is it not recommended to use the TEST fitting on the injection pump for the permanent fuel pressure?

 

[WMeyers]

zstroken - I heard here some time ago that the banjo bolt from Genos was plated after it was taped. It is 1/8 NPT but a lot of people report the same issue of only a couple turns possible. The recommended solution was to tap it again.

 

[Wolfgang]

Tomeygun my question exactly why not use the test point

 

[Rob Thomas]

Originally posted by Wolfgang

Tomeygun my question exactly why not use the test point

Who said you can't? 'Cept I have mechanical gauges, and had one mounted on the VP, way to much vibration for me. So I opted to mount on the filter housing.



Also, I just installed the grease gun hose between the braided lines and the filter, way better now, no damn noise whatsoever.



Later, Rob

 

[Wolfgang]

The reason I asked is in all these posts I have read about fuel pressure gauges no one has mentioned using the test point. I assumed up till now that there was a problem with using this point. It does seem to be the easiest point to get to to hook up the gauge as we do with Briar Hoppers test gauge. Inquiring minds would like to know.

 

[Pit Bull]

I still use Briars test guage. guess I am just cheap or to lazy to hook up a perm. guage. I just check mine every 2 weeks, after I get 100K miles on the old truck I will go with the perm setup. I only have 50K miles on my truck so that will be almost 3 years from now and knowing my buying habits I will have a new truck at around 100K miles. My first lift pump was dead "0" psi at 40K miles. I have no idea now long I drove with a dead lift pump. I either have a strong VP44 or it won't make it to 100K miles. If my VP44 dies before 100K miles I will then put in a perm. FP guage. I never noticed any difference in performance with the dead lift pump over the new lift pump??? I don't tow or haul and my truck is a daily driver driven easy (I never go over 2300 rpm) That is why I figure I never noticed any performance difference. I'm an old guy and drive like I'm an old guy. If I was a bomber or a hot rod guy I would have the perm. guage in now. I will let everyone know if my VP44 dies, maybe that will give everyone an idea about now much abuse these VP44's will take. You ever wonder how many guys that own these trucks and don't belong to the TDR, drive with dead lift pumps for 40 or 50K miles?? I have a buddy that has the same year truck as mine and pulls a 5th wheeler. He has the oil changed at Walmart and just drives the crap out of his truck. He has around 60K miles on it by now. Next time I see him I'm going to check his lift pump pressure and see if his lift pump is working. I almost hate to do it because the last time I saw him he showed me his engine and it was so dirty that it looked like he had shoveled dirt and oil on the CTD To each his own.

 

[jtisdale]

Schrader valve"test"points

I didnt use either of the schrader valves as permanent hook-ups so either I or the dealer could still hook up test gauges. That way I wont have to change the line back and forth to use a different gauge for verification. Now, I am hooked at the bottom of the fuel filter. I just changed the banjo bolt out for the tapped version. I suppose if your line to your permanent gauge would screw on to the schrader valve it would work just as well. It probably boils down to a matter of preference.

A friend of mine has an 01 with close to 300,000 miles on it, totally stock. He began to have a real rough idle and low rpm miss, but upper rpms it seemed fine. He was in Indiana at the time. He called the dealer here (in WI) and they said get it here and they would get it in right away. He drove it back to find out the lift pump and the vp44 were both fried. $3000 later he was back on the road. Now, I wonder how long his lift pump had been dead. :--)

 

[Briar Hopper]

I have a special fitting that allows installation of a fuel hose(to mount the sending unit remotely) to the Schraeder test port on the VP44 injection pump. The needle valve core has to be removed completely, but the Schraeder can be left in place. The banjo bolts from Ray Torresdal, sold by Geno's Garage, are about the same in cost as using my fitting. But I personally have Ray's banjo bolts on my truck, having changed out all 5. The one at the pump is the tapped one, of course.

I hope to get a few free moments in the next wo weeks to round up enough material to make up complete gauge installation kits, including a snubber.

I'm not in favor of the mechanical/ isolator setup from AutoMeter for several reasons. The main reason is, by the time you've bought extra braided line, your cost is within $20 of an electrical gauge. The electrical version is much faster & easier to install.

 

[Pit Bull]

Re: Schrader valve"test"points

Originally posted by jtisdale



.

A friend of mine has an 01 with close to 300,000 miles on it, totally stock. He began to have a real rough idle and low rpm miss, but upper rpms it seemed fine. He was in Indiana at the time. He called the dealer here (in WI) and they said get it here and they would get it in right away. He drove it back to find out the lift pump and the vp44 were both fried. $3000 later he was back on the road. Now, I wonder how long his lift pump had been dead.

Based on the # of miles I drive per year (20K) that works out to $17. 00 per month I would need to put away for my next VP44 and lift pump purchase. I could live with that