Attention: TDR Forum Junkies INSTALLATION OF HORTON FAN CLUTCH ON 1993 DODGE D-250
This is based on a very recent installation on my 1993
Dodge Ram and is probably very similar for all 1989 to 1993
models. The parts kit is complete and everything fits well -
just not in the same place that the manual (written for the 1994
and up models) shows! I bought my fan clutch at the National
TDR Rally from Scheid Diesel and they were very helpful when I
had some problems.
STEP 1 - Check your parts list and lay out the wiring
harness and try to make sense of it all.
STEP 2. DISCONNECT NEGATIVE LEADS FROM BATTERY. The
small (T-shaped) harness installs on the passenger side inner
fender, under the air intake and inserts between the existing
connector, open the existing connector and put male to female
from the new harness. That was pretty simple wasn't it? Now
let's get down to the more difficult part.
STEP 3. FAN REMOVAL Forget the HORTON Manual on this
one. Beg borrow or steal a 36 mm (Not 1 7/8") open end wrench,
NAPA has a wrench designed for Ford fan clutch removal that
works perfectly. While holding a bar or large screwdriver
between fan blade bolts to prevent shaft from turning, use the
36 mm wrench to break nut lose. Turn clockwise while looking
from front of vehicle. This requires some effort but once it
has broken loose, it just spins off. Before you spin it all
the way off, pop the two retainers that hold the shroud to the
radiator (on topo) and remove fan/clutch assembly and shroud
together. That was pretty uneventful wasn't it? Have a soft
drink while puzzling through next step.
STEP 4. AC PRESSURE SWITCH. The high pressure
refrigerant port is just above the new T-shaped harness that you
installed in Step 1. In your parts kit will be a brass adapter
that will fit on the high pressure port - they both have
Schrader (like tire valves)valves to prevent loss of
refrigerant. The adapter allows the R-134 pressure switch to
mount on a R-12 system). After removing existing valve cap,
install the adapter and pressure switch. You may lose a little
refrigerant but work fast and all is well.
STEP 5. ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR. Following the
manual, I looked on the left side of the engine block behind the
fuel filter for a 1/2" pipe plug but could only find a heat
shield. Called Scheid and was informed that for California
trucks, the pipe plug was on the right side of the engine behind
the alternator, with the aid of a flashlight, I spotted the plug
but there was no way I was going to be able to get it without
removing the alternator. In order to remove the alternator, I
had to loosen the belt tensioner and get belt off alternator -
this necessitated a trip to Sears to buy a long handled 3/8"
drive ratchet. As I am old (72) and decrepit, I needed a
cheater, and this needed room so I now removed the Air cleaner
and inlet pipe. After removing serpentine belt from alternator,
the remaining three bolts holding the alternator on were duck
soup and it was laid down clearing the way to the plug. The
plug had a 3/8" hex female opening and luckily I had one of
these in my tool box. I coated the water temperature threads
with some Teflon pipe dope and installed it immediately behind
the removal of the plug losing only a few ounces of coolant. A
7/8" crows foot wrench would be handy here but I used a 12"
Crescent with a screw driver in the hole in the handle to
tighten sensor without screwing up the wires. Reinstalling the
alternator was no sweat but getting the belt back on was hectic
but doable in reverse. Reinstall air cleaner and air tube.
STEP 6. INSTALL NEW HORTON FAN AND CLUTCH. I did this
before water sensor but in retrospect, this would give you a lot
more room to get that pesky fan belt back on so do it this way!
Assemble fan to clutch per HORTON manual using and torquing the
six bolts. Drop shroud and fan assembly into void and start
threaded nut onto shaft - don't forget, left hand treads, nut
goes counter-clockwise! I didn't tighten nut past hand tighten
as it gets a wallop every time the clutch gets jolted. There
are two tension wires on the back of the radiator that run from
topo to bottom and I slipped the wire assembly from the clutch
under the one on the drivers side and stretched the wire up
adjacent to the upper retaining clip after cutting a small notch
in the shroud. I relocated the "P"-clip a few inches and
drilled a small hole in metal housing and bolted "P"-clip and
wire in place, wire is now taut enough that fan can not pull it
into it's danger zone. Install shroud retainer clips. The
hardest part is now done - have a beer and celebrate!
STEP 7. INSTALL MAJOR WIRING HARNESS. After reading the
HORTON manual, you will realize that all of the sensors
accomplish the same thing, complete a circuit to the relay that
switches on the fan. There is only one single pin connection so
lets start with it. It goes onto the tag end of that little "T"
harness we installed back in Step 2. All sensor plugs have two
green wires, one with a black stripe. This leads us to using the
two prong plug that is near it to go onto the refrigerant
sensor! There is only one two prong plug that has a red wire
and a black wire an that goes to the clutch wire which I had
draped along left side of engine, so plug these together. There
are two ring connectors, one red and one black. The black one
was near the windshield wiper motor so I put in under one of the
mounting bolts. This left me with a loop of wire with two
sensor plugs and an end with a relay, fuse block, two green
wires and a red ring. I routed the harness along the right
fender from the refrigerant plug to the junction of the water
heater tubes and followed them out to near the alternator where
I was able to hook onto the water sensor. Be sure to tie wrap
all wiring to avoid moving parts and high heat sources such as
exhaust manifold, turbo housing etc. The loose green wires go
to the manual override switch and I lengthened mine - this
depends on where you are going to mount switch. I cut the red
ring off and added about five feet of number 14 gauge wire to my
power distribution module, near the battery.
STEP 8. Check all wiring connections and reconnect
negative leads to battery.
STEP 9. Test - Follow the HORTON manual, mine works
perfectly and now has a quick warm up and cools when necessary -
engine is noticeably quieter.
------------------
'93 D-250 Club Cab, Emerald Green & Gold, 5-speed w Gear Vendors OD, 77K , ASC Sun Roof, Horton Fan, Transfer-Flo 45 gal tank/toolbox combo
This is based on a very recent installation on my 1993
Dodge Ram and is probably very similar for all 1989 to 1993
models. The parts kit is complete and everything fits well -
just not in the same place that the manual (written for the 1994
and up models) shows! I bought my fan clutch at the National
TDR Rally from Scheid Diesel and they were very helpful when I
had some problems.
STEP 1 - Check your parts list and lay out the wiring
harness and try to make sense of it all.
STEP 2. DISCONNECT NEGATIVE LEADS FROM BATTERY. The
small (T-shaped) harness installs on the passenger side inner
fender, under the air intake and inserts between the existing
connector, open the existing connector and put male to female
from the new harness. That was pretty simple wasn't it? Now
let's get down to the more difficult part.
STEP 3. FAN REMOVAL Forget the HORTON Manual on this
one. Beg borrow or steal a 36 mm (Not 1 7/8") open end wrench,
NAPA has a wrench designed for Ford fan clutch removal that
works perfectly. While holding a bar or large screwdriver
between fan blade bolts to prevent shaft from turning, use the
36 mm wrench to break nut lose. Turn clockwise while looking
from front of vehicle. This requires some effort but once it
has broken loose, it just spins off. Before you spin it all
the way off, pop the two retainers that hold the shroud to the
radiator (on topo) and remove fan/clutch assembly and shroud
together. That was pretty uneventful wasn't it? Have a soft
drink while puzzling through next step.
STEP 4. AC PRESSURE SWITCH. The high pressure
refrigerant port is just above the new T-shaped harness that you
installed in Step 1. In your parts kit will be a brass adapter
that will fit on the high pressure port - they both have
Schrader (like tire valves)valves to prevent loss of
refrigerant. The adapter allows the R-134 pressure switch to
mount on a R-12 system). After removing existing valve cap,
install the adapter and pressure switch. You may lose a little
refrigerant but work fast and all is well.
STEP 5. ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR. Following the
manual, I looked on the left side of the engine block behind the
fuel filter for a 1/2" pipe plug but could only find a heat
shield. Called Scheid and was informed that for California
trucks, the pipe plug was on the right side of the engine behind
the alternator, with the aid of a flashlight, I spotted the plug
but there was no way I was going to be able to get it without
removing the alternator. In order to remove the alternator, I
had to loosen the belt tensioner and get belt off alternator -
this necessitated a trip to Sears to buy a long handled 3/8"
drive ratchet. As I am old (72) and decrepit, I needed a
cheater, and this needed room so I now removed the Air cleaner
and inlet pipe. After removing serpentine belt from alternator,
the remaining three bolts holding the alternator on were duck
soup and it was laid down clearing the way to the plug. The
plug had a 3/8" hex female opening and luckily I had one of
these in my tool box. I coated the water temperature threads
with some Teflon pipe dope and installed it immediately behind
the removal of the plug losing only a few ounces of coolant. A
7/8" crows foot wrench would be handy here but I used a 12"
Crescent with a screw driver in the hole in the handle to
tighten sensor without screwing up the wires. Reinstalling the
alternator was no sweat but getting the belt back on was hectic
but doable in reverse. Reinstall air cleaner and air tube.
STEP 6. INSTALL NEW HORTON FAN AND CLUTCH. I did this
before water sensor but in retrospect, this would give you a lot
more room to get that pesky fan belt back on so do it this way!
Assemble fan to clutch per HORTON manual using and torquing the
six bolts. Drop shroud and fan assembly into void and start
threaded nut onto shaft - don't forget, left hand treads, nut
goes counter-clockwise! I didn't tighten nut past hand tighten
as it gets a wallop every time the clutch gets jolted. There
are two tension wires on the back of the radiator that run from
topo to bottom and I slipped the wire assembly from the clutch
under the one on the drivers side and stretched the wire up
adjacent to the upper retaining clip after cutting a small notch
in the shroud. I relocated the "P"-clip a few inches and
drilled a small hole in metal housing and bolted "P"-clip and
wire in place, wire is now taut enough that fan can not pull it
into it's danger zone. Install shroud retainer clips. The
hardest part is now done - have a beer and celebrate!
STEP 7. INSTALL MAJOR WIRING HARNESS. After reading the
HORTON manual, you will realize that all of the sensors
accomplish the same thing, complete a circuit to the relay that
switches on the fan. There is only one single pin connection so
lets start with it. It goes onto the tag end of that little "T"
harness we installed back in Step 2. All sensor plugs have two
green wires, one with a black stripe. This leads us to using the
two prong plug that is near it to go onto the refrigerant
sensor! There is only one two prong plug that has a red wire
and a black wire an that goes to the clutch wire which I had
draped along left side of engine, so plug these together. There
are two ring connectors, one red and one black. The black one
was near the windshield wiper motor so I put in under one of the
mounting bolts. This left me with a loop of wire with two
sensor plugs and an end with a relay, fuse block, two green
wires and a red ring. I routed the harness along the right
fender from the refrigerant plug to the junction of the water
heater tubes and followed them out to near the alternator where
I was able to hook onto the water sensor. Be sure to tie wrap
all wiring to avoid moving parts and high heat sources such as
exhaust manifold, turbo housing etc. The loose green wires go
to the manual override switch and I lengthened mine - this
depends on where you are going to mount switch. I cut the red
ring off and added about five feet of number 14 gauge wire to my
power distribution module, near the battery.
STEP 8. Check all wiring connections and reconnect
negative leads to battery.
STEP 9. Test - Follow the HORTON manual, mine works
perfectly and now has a quick warm up and cools when necessary -
engine is noticeably quieter.
------------------
'93 D-250 Club Cab, Emerald Green & Gold, 5-speed w Gear Vendors OD, 77K , ASC Sun Roof, Horton Fan, Transfer-Flo 45 gal tank/toolbox combo
