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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Yet another death wobble post

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 12 valve crank sensor plug

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The continuing saga of the most tire-eatin' truck on the road.



But now, I think I'm closing in on the problem!



Then again, I have thought that same thing with every one of the several thousands of dollars this crappy-beyond-belief dodge frontend has sucked down and wasted... :mad:



Suffice it to say that if there is an upgraded and expensive steering or front suspension part out there, it's on my truck. And with the exception of the unitized hubs -- which continue to exhibit absolutely zero slop or play or roughness in the bearings -- EVERYTHING is new. The hubs have even been modified with grease zerks as I slowly continue to gather the thousands of additional dollars in parts to bring this pseudo-dana 60 into the realm of something more like a real dana 60.



Through all of this, and through several sets of tires and wheels and alignments and balancing, the frontend continues to shake anywhere from mildly to like a dog poopin' a razor blade. No more death wobble at least, but a constant infuriating shake ranging from extremely mild to not-quite wild.



After 2 left front tire blowouts in one year from the tires being literally shaken to death from within (I'm convinced of this), I finally laid my hands on a set of Rickson 19. 5 wheels and H-rated, $450 apiece Michelin tires. It just doesn't get any more top-of-the-line and heavy duty than that. They were precision balanced and mounted up today at a reputable tire dealer that specializes in medium and heavy duty truck tires.



And it STILL shakes! #@$%!



There is NOTHING loose or sloppy or cracked or bent or out of adjustment whatsoever. It has been repeatedly checked by me, two frame & axle shops, the best auto repair shop around, and now the commercial truck tire center.



I was furious after the drive home today from the tire shop. Ready to yank the cummins and put it in a real truck and use the stinkin' dodge for target practice! :mad:



Then, I reached down to wipe something off the Rickson up front... and jerked my hand back in pain!! :eek: The wheel and nuts were HOT after less than 15 miles of easy driving and almost no braking.



I am well aware of the inherent problem in dodge front brake hoses and have always checked my brake pads and rotors for any signs of dragging, warping, or overheating. I replaced the still-good and evenly wearing brake pads when i rebuilt the front end with all-moog t-style steering components. I had the rotors checked for straightness and carefully turned. They were in fine shape Two weeks ago, I had the front wheels off and did my usual every few months cleanup and lube of the caliper slide surfaces and bolts. I always check for smooth and easy front wheel spin and bearing slop when I jack the front end up, which is all too frequently. Like I said, I expect & watch for sticking front caliper problems and deteriorating unitized hubs. I don't trust that wimpy junk at all.



Yet here I was, barely able to touch the front lugnuts after such a short & easy drive. The ONLY thing that could transfer that much heat on a very cool day under such light driving conditions is dragging calipers. But why had I never found that to be the case before even when i specifically checked for it?



possible reasons:



the Ricksons and Michelins are extremely HEAVY!! It will obviously require much more effort by the brakes to stop them. But I live on a rural blacktop and used my 5-speed manual transmission to do almost all of my slowing down from the unhurried highway cruise home to turn into my long driveway. The brakes had no demands at all placed on them.



The rear brake drums, wheels, and lug nuts were MUCH cooler. The front lugs were so hot you would have to juggle the nuts from hand to hand if someone tossed one to you. Of course, the stock dodge rear brakes on these trucks are also infamous for never doing their share anyway. They suck, too.



Though I have tried 5 duifferent sets of tires and wheels, this is the first time in my ownership of the truck (since 1999) that it has had steel wheels of any sort on it. And aluminum dissipates heat much faster. Which means the heat never had a chance to be retained in the lugnuts and wheel before.



So I jacked the frontend up, and the wheels spun smoothly and easily. But the calipers had obviously just been dragging to create that much heat for no reason. What's going on here?



My rotors still look smooth and true and the pads are like new with equal and even wear. But when I drive the truck and the calipers apparently start dragging for (whatever reason?). What in the world is causing this?? The only answer I can think of is that the front hoses are indeed collapsing or clogging internally and maintaining too much residual pressure, but only while the truck is moving. The pressure then quickly bleeds off after the truck is parked, creating a phantom problem that cannot be found when the truck is parked. The calipers are definitely not stuck and function fine when the truck is parked.



But the constant heating of the rotors and pads while driving could very well cause shake and shimmy. They do not drag hard enough to ever smell hot, though. But I wonder how they would check out on a lathe with a dial indicator now?



When I finally install the Ford knuckles, hubs, rotors, and dual-piston calipers, along with the 35-spline inner & outer axle shafts I am still needing, the problem will still likely be there since the dodge hoses would nornmally be retained in this upgrade.



I just spoke with EBC brakes last week to get pricing on all-new stainless steel hardlines and flex hoses to replace the also-crappy and rusting out Dodge lines, which were slated to be part of that final frontend upgrade to lockouts and real dana 60-sized axle shafts.



I obviously need to move them up on the priority list. Way up. But could the distribution or proportioning valve or whatever dodge uses be sticking on it's own and casing the problem instead of collapsing brake hoses?



I'm a pessimist now with this shaky dodge, and chances are this crappy design frontend will still find a way and reason to shake even after I install new lines & hoses and rotors and pads and hubs and bearings etc etc etc. But there's nothing else left.



Has anyone else chased a phantom shake like this before and found the calipers were dragging ONLY when the truck was going down the road? It would be somewhat encouraging to know if I have likely found the real culprit after all this time and money.



It's amazing how long the steel wheels will hold the heat in the lugnuts and wheel centers while the aluminum wheels dissapate it so very quickly as to not even be found or noticed. That ability to store and build so much heat actually helped me find this problem immediately after mounting the steel Ricksons.
 
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Bearings can also cause the kind of heat you are describing. For the brakes to heat the wheel/lug nuts the brakes would almost have to be cherry read. I have seen brakes so hot they were smoking at a stop and the wheels/lugs had very little heat transfer. If you didn't notice the caliper smoking or glowing/glazed brake rotors/pad I am not sure your brakes were dragging, in addition you said they moved smooth. If the pads had just been hot enough to get the lug nuts to over 120° then you should have felt some dragging and unevenness caused by the hot pats/rotors.

In addition, have you tried anything but the Moog joints? I have read far too many Moog horror stories to ever consider running them.
 
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Scott, does your truck have vacuum boost or hydra-boost? Most vacuum boost canisters have an adjustment of the control rod that operates the master cylinder. If they are slightly too long they can hold the master cylinder down a hair, just enough to hold some pressure in the lines, yet release when the truck is shut off and vacuum is gone. Hydra-boost may have this adjustment also.



What are you using for your toe-in setting? The closer you can get to dead ahead straight without being toed in or out is best.



Nick
 
Your warm front end may be completely normal... ... ... I test drive just about every car before doing a brake inspection. Every one of them heat up the front lug nuts to an uncomfortable temperature where the rears are still cool to the touch. This applies to pass cars as well as trucks.

Warped rotors don't shimmy till the brakes are applied,in most cases you can measure the thickness variation if they have run out so if you have calipers but no dial indicator you can still see an issue.

Your bigger and heavier wheels will amplify any issue you have in the front end not not lessen it.
 
You have an excellent point. The brakes should be smoking or smelly if they are generating that kind of heat, and like I said, they exhibit none of that and zero other signs of typical sticking calipers (one pad worn far more than the other, grooved rotor, etc) and they definitely were not stuck or dragging excessively by the time I got the wheel removed.



But the doggone wheel bearings had just been checked at the tire shop, too, and showed no slop in, out, up, or down. Nothing did.



The holdup on the ford conversion is the inner 35-spline axles to eliminate the CAD and wimpy 2-piece passenger side shaft and 30-spline, dana 44-sized shafts. They alone run about $600. The outer 35-spline replacement shafts are another $250 or so. I also need a pair of rebuilt loaded Ford calipers and hardware kit.



Together with the Ford D60 knuckles, spindles, hubs, rotors, Warn 35-spline lockouts, live tapered wheel bearings, and Chevy 35-spline spiders and axle gears (or the 35-spline PowerLok limited slip) I do already have, all of the suspect dodge parts would then be eliminated entirely except the dodge brake hoses. My intent is to also upgrade the entire brake system with hydroboost from a '98 and ALL new stainless steel hardlines and flex hoses. I already had one rear brake line burst, so the others can't be far behind. Setting myself hundreds of dollars farther behind on buying the remaining conversion parts by buying a replacement pair of junk-to-begin-with unitized dodge bearing/hubs is something I simply do not want to do.



As you can see, despite all I've spent up to now, I'm still a couple thousand from what's needed to de-dodge this disaster of a frontend.



I think from the pathetic headlights to the rusted-out rear spring shackles, about the only thing dodge designed and built right on this entire truck were the mounts that actually hold a cummins. Those mopar engineers couldn't design a durable and effective paperweight if you sat them down in front of a pile of rocks, and even if you showed them how, the bean counters would find a way to charge more for less. They'd undoubtedly make one out of imported dried mud and call it a high-tech composite, which would dissolve and crumble the first time it got damp...
 
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Bob, it was a chilly, sometimes drizzling day and I had encountered only one stop sign in the 15 miles home, and it was within the first mile. If the brakes and/or hubs run that hot 'normally', then they would have no prayer of surving a 7% grade on a hot desert day with a heavy load.



Not one of my solid axle Chevy trucks comes even close to generating that kind of heat. The dodge rotors were checked for runout and thickness prior to being resurfaced. They were fine and still appear to be, along with the brake pads, none of which have 4000 miles on them yet.



Everyone is well aware of the high failure & trouble rate of dodge brakes (for many reasons) and unitized hubs. With all I have spent and replaced on the truck and with the shake still present despite that, they have been getting very close attention.



And why would my particular truck be unable to handle any tires and wheels other than stock? I don't buy that. The ricksons and michelins are much heavier than LT tires and wheels, but the numerous aluminum wheels in stock sizes that have been tried were lighter. Are you saying these trucks should run only what the factory puts on them? We already know the factory only uses the worst and cheapest parts available.
 
If anyone else here has a cummins dodge with steel wheels, could you check your front lugnuts after a short easy drive and see if they are too hot to touch or hold onto?
 
Bob, it was a chilly, sometimes drizzling day and I had encountered only one stop sign in the 15 miles home, and it was within the first mile. If the brakes and/or hubs run that hot 'normally', then they would have no prayer of surving a 7% grade on a hot desert day with a heavy load.



Not one of my solid axle Chevy trucks comes even close to generating that kind of heat. The dodge rotors were checked for runout and thickness prior to being resurfaced. They were fine and still appear to be, along with the brake pads, none of which have 4000 miles on them yet.



Everyone is well aware of the high failure & trouble rate of dodge brakes (for many reasons) and unitized hubs. With all I have spent and replaced on the truck and with the shake still present despite that, they have been getting very close attention.



And why would my particular truck be unable to handle any tires and wheels other than stock? I don't buy that. The ricksons and michelins are much heavier than LT tires and wheels, but the numerous aluminum wheels in stock sizes that have been tried were lighter. Are you saying these trucks should run only what the factory puts on them? We already know the factory only uses the worst and cheapest parts available.



:-laf Relax man I never said your truck could not handle bigger tires/ wheels,just that it would amplify what ever condition you have over a lighter combo.

I have always run bigger Tires,I also have never had any brake issue. I still have my origional front rotors and drums on my 94-3rd set of pads and origional rear shoes.

I tow a bit,this truck has drag raced,sled pulled and been my commutor for Many years.

Maybe your truck takes your Dodge hate to heart :-laf
 
I have had to pay thousands of dollars for that contempt, or hate as you call it. All trucks wear and break. You should be able to fix them, even upgrade them, and get results. It is the non-stop literally thousands upon thousands of wasted dollars in the front end alone that infuriates me to a postal level.



This is something dodge did right once upon a time. Tried & true, proven leafsprings and a real Dana 60 (kingpins, lockouts, 35-spline shafts, live bearing hubs)were infinitely superior.



The term "Dodge Death Wobble" did not even exist until they changed to this horrible design, which I am absolutely convinced has led to many injuries and deaths since. It has come very close to killing me.



I've earned the right to be brutally honest about it.



But I obviously have not given up. If I have any culpability in all of this, then that would be it. I'm not slamming dodge without trying to find and fix the problem. the term "inherent" keeps working it's way to the top of the list. As in: "Inherent in the design. "



If my truck was the only one that had such problems, then I could be deemed a dodge hater and troll. But this entire website, and a dozen more just like it, exist in most part because of all the problems that virtually every owner of one these trucks shares. There are how many companies making a bloody fortune off all the problems with this Dodge frontend alone? So what did we pay dodge for?



My brother bought a 2002 24v with NV5600 after I bought my '96. His truck does not exhibit frontend problems. But it's a city-boy's truck and seldom gets off the San Diego freeway or hauls anything heavier than furniture. Oh sure, he drives out to the desert once or twice to claim "off-roader" status and find an excuse to see if his t-case still works, and actually thinks he works his truck hard, but it makes me wonder why he needed it. . ? His chevy-powered CJ8 Scrambler is much more capable and fun off-road.



But what I have paid for in frontend gremlins, he has paid for in lift & fuel pump failure on his dodge -- another too-common problem, but one that can be laid to rest at cummins' feet -- like the KDP or crack-prone blocks.



There is NO excuse for money pit this frontend is. I have Chevy trucks twice its age with much bigger tires that have never, ever trashed or worn a single tire unevenly or exhibited the least little shake, much less put-you-in-the-ditch or kill you Death Wobble. I paid less for those entire trucks in some cases than I have wasted on this dodge frontend.



Some here think I should be a 'good sport' about wasting thousands of dollars on this truck and the frontend in particular. That I'm a fair-weather fan. Well, it's MY hard-earned money and time and it's my truck to be brutally honest about.



I started this thread to get to the bottom of the excessive heat being transferred to my lugnuts and wheels. I may despise the truck and/or it's design, but I am stuck with it and determined to get to the root cause and the solution.



Meanwhile, as long as I keeping getting brutalized in my wallet, dodge is going to get brutalized in my posts. They went to great effort to earn that and no cheerleader skirt and sweater came with the truck title. Believe me, they don't need anyone to defend them; they laughed all the way to the bank and their design will always hurt me far more than my posts hurt them.
 
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I'm headed back up to the tire shop that did the tire balancing yesterday. They claim that Equibalance stuff (8 ounces of expensive sand is what it looked like to me) they talked me into is better than lead weights and better than Centramatics. If there was any difference in how the truck felt afterwards, it was worse; not better.



So I called them this morning and asked if they would now remove one wheel and tire, spin it up on their machine, and SHOW ME that stuff actually balances the wheel & tire. Funny thing, they NOW tell me it won't show being balanced because the spin balancer cannot spin it fast enough. What a joke!



So just how fast is "fast enough"? Will my tires & wheels be unbalanced at all speeds under... what? ... 40mph? 50mph? 70 or 80? why didn't they tell me this when they were doing their sales pitch? I asked. Centramatics specify that their balancers work at all speeds over 20mph and that speeds under 20mph are too slow to cause shake. They said their stuff was "the same". Any good spin balancer should hit 20mph I would think. . ?



But what I'm also going to get out of my return visit is a better inspection since the guy is absolutely certain he can and will find "some other reason" for the shake. They couldn't find anything yesterday, it's pretty tough when everything (ball joints, steering linkage, trackbar, shocks, control arms, etc) is so obviously new and tight, but I actually hope he does "find something" today in his effort to vindicate his Equibalance stuff.



If the truck still shakes, and if they can't spin the tires up and show me it works, then it simply doesn't work. Honestly, there was absolutely zero improvement between zero weights or balancing on those wheels and tires and their "permanent solution" Equilbalance balancing. I have driven it both ways. If anything, the shake now seems to include the rear wheels, too...



These are very nice wheels and tires, btw. Two of the Michelin tires have under 1000 miles on them and barely have the nubbins wore off them and the other two are half-tread or better and worn evenly. The Ricksons are the most precision built and strongest wheels available for these trucks. The wheels are rated for 5000 pounds apiece and the tires for 4940 pounds each. They should be able to support the weight of the cummins, I think...



But now more than ever, I want this frontend problem solved! I was tired of trashing, and catastrophically blowing, tires that cost $250 to $300 each in just a few thousand miles; now these donuts cost $450 each (new). The wheels are another $300 each new. I won't tolerate trashing them. And I am reminded why none of my personal vehicles have ever had Michelins: I live in the wrong tax bracket!! :eek:
 
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My R/F caliper was nearly frozen. It was slow to apply (pulled left) and slow to release (pulled right). Granted, in this case it was smokin' hot (I needed a few extra # of boost to git down the road). There was slight rotor warpage which cause the steering wheel to shimmy on the highway. I replaced the caliper and scuffed up the pads and rotor. After a few good brake applications, the R/F pads reseated and the truck is now stopping straight for the first time in some years.

Did you dismantle the calipers to inspect the cylinders? If it isn't the master cylinder keeping slight pressure on the brakes (as Nick suggested), I'll suggest the cylinder is slightly worn or rusted, causing the pads to drag once the rotors have heated up and expanded. Another possibility is that something isn't mated correctly such that the piston is fully retracted and has nowhere to go when the rotor expands.
 
The balancing beads *do* work. And work very well. Rickson use Equal (I think) in addition to weights. They'd found that some beads work better than others. The weights bring the balance in very close; they're needed because the 19. 5s are designed to be used on heavier vehicles that can tolerate more out-of-round and out-of-balance. The beads work to *keep* the tires balanced as they wear. Remember: a tire is balanced only until you run it on the road. Then it changes, and changes more over time.

Did they match as well as balance? That is, did they match the high spot of the rim with the low spot of the tire to achieve less than (I think) 5-10# of road force?
 
they are a professional heavy truck tire shop, Neal. They have serviced the tires on several fleets of semis for companies I have worked for and surely know to match mount the tires or at least check it since these were already mounted and they used some sort of pump to inject the equibalance. But I will certainly bring it up as something I want double-checked.



truthfully, these wheels and tires had zero weights on them and nothing in them when they came to me and were already much smoother driving than any of the three balanced wheel and tire sets we had just swapped from the various Chevys I have. those tires and wheels ride and drive smoothly on the chevys, but they all exhibited the same shake, to varying degrees, on the dodge. But so did these.



It really isn't a tire balance shake in my mind, though it does quickly trash tires and then makes it impossible to tell which shake is which. It is a side-to-side shake coming right up the steering wheel and is even visible in the shifters. And, btw, both front & rear driveshafts and the carrier bearing and ujoints were fully rebuilt, replaced, and rebalanced with genuine Spicer components by a local driveline shop when I rebuilt the frontend. The front axle shafts also received new spicer u-joints and seals.



The truck was also precision 4-wheel aligned by my friend and neighbor on his shop's brand-new Hunter alignment machine, too, with every effort made to get the specs perfect -- not just within tolerances. He owns the three best automotive shops in the area and this machine was his latest investment to replace an aging one. State of the art. He drove my truck to work that day and then brought it back to me. Even he was disappointed and disgusted that it still had "a tiny shake in the steering wheel" that he could not resolve. We chalked it up to to the tires it had at the time. But this is the same shake it always had and which has again increased ever since.



You can see where I have spent tons of money and I'm running out of things to replace, rebuild, and buy... hence my angry frustration.
 
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To give you an idea how miserable this truck is to drive or even just ride in, I had a bobble-head buck rubbing a tree stuck on my dash. It literally shook apart after less than one year! Anyone driving or riding in that paint shaker gets the same fatiguing treatment. It isn't the magnitude of the shake so much as the relentlessness.
 
I didn't read everything but have you had the axle checked? It would not explain the lug nuts but the shake could be a bent housing. My cousin has a truck that's tweaked. Early on he had some real issues with steering and death wobble, for him the normal solutions fixeded it but maybe yours is tweaked just right.
 
I had hot nuts on my minivan. It was a intermittent sticking caliper in my case. It doesn't take much to heat it up. 100C is already "too hot to touch" and the brakes will get a lot hotter than that.
 
they are a professional heavy truck tire shop, Neal. They have serviced the tires on several fleets of semis for companies I have worked for and surely know to match mount the tires or at least check it since these were already mounted and they used some sort of pump to inject the equibalance. But I will certainly bring it up as something I want double-checked. ...



A tractor weighs what? 30k#? 6k# on a front tire will hide many tens of # of out-of-round force. Even a medium duty that has 19. 5s puts significant down force on its front tires. Then you have the Dodge Ram. The unladen weight on the front axle is what? 2400#? Whatever the number, it's low enough to make matching and balancing of 19. 5s very important; this weight relationship doesn't necessarily jump out at even the 'above average' person. That's the reason I queried the matching, not to impugn anyone's professional skills.



Did you actually take the calipers apart to verify the internal conditions?



I forget. What was the nature of the blow-outs? Bead? Sidewall? Tread? That could yield a clue.



Second last test I can think of: drive 1 mile up the road, turn around, get up to speed, then drive the last 1/4-1/2 mile back with your foot on the brake (enough to need 10# of boost in D; if auto trans, the TC should re-engage after a few moments even with your foot on the brake). Immediately jack up the front end and check to see if the calipers are sticking.



Last test: raise it by the frame so all wheels are off the ground. Remove all four wheels. Raise each diff 2-4 inches so each corner has room for up-down motion. Run it up to the highest speed you can get (110 maybe?) Look for non-engine vibration somewhere in the speed range.



That's it. I can't think of anything else to investigate.
 
I had to take care of some upcoming fundraising business and could not take the truck back to the tire shop today when they had an opening. So i did a small experiment tonight, though I'm not sure I learned anything meaningful.



I took the truck on an interstate cruise for 8 miles to the rest area. Ambient air temp was 57 degrees, clear weather, smooth road. I cruised 65 mph by the speedo (probably closer to 70) and rolled into the pickle park using zero brakes, just the gearbox, and finally, just barely, I used the parking brake only to come to a full stop. Zero front braking the entire way. A very slight shake, 'the shake', was perceptible but mild during the drive. The truck tends to wander and follow road irregularities just a bit with these skinny 245/70R19. 5 tires, but not terribly.



After rolling to a brakeless stop, the front wheel centers and lug nuts were slightly, very slightly, warm. The rotors were definitely warmer, but still cool enough to easily grab ahold of. The calipers were as cold as the door skin. If they had been dragging at all, I would have expected them to be warm if not downright hot.



Does this mean all the heat, which was not that much, that I felt in the rotors was from the wheel bearings alone? Where was the "Yowser!" heat from yesterday that discouraged even moderate touching of the lug nuts, much less the rotors?



On the return trip tonight, I braked as normal, drove through town and a few stoplights and back out the county road to home, where i drove in and around the circle drive and braked and backed up and parked normally. The rotors were warmer than before, but I could still grab ahold of them cautiously. The lug nuts and wheel were only slightly warmer than they had been at the rest area. The calipers were still very cool.



The truck exhibited a little more shake on the return trip than it did on the outbound drive. An annoying type of pulse like always. It never completely goes away and increases greatly in magnitude at times depending on what? How far I drive? how hot the weather is? There just is no definitive answer or common denominator. It may do it from the git-go, or it may build up as I drive.



Tomorrow, time willing, the truck goes up with jackstands under the axle tubes at each wheel. I'll put it in 4wd and in gear and let 'er spin up to 50 mph or whatever it seems it might take without shaking itself off the stands. Hopefully, some component will show itself shaking & trying to get out of control before it actually does. I think I'll also tether the truck to a big tree with a heavy chain in case it does indeed shake itself off the stands. It would be nice to have second person in the cab ready to shut things down in a hurry, but you can't always find such help when you want it.



This might also answer "at what speed does that equibalance stuff start working if it does at all?"
 
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Sounds like a good plan. You might start your test in two wheel drive just to make it scientific like.

Is there a possibility that your CAD isn't fully disengaging and your front driveshaft is toast?
 
It goes in and out of 4wd properly and works like it should. I had the front axle, including the carrier, all apart and installed



> new Spicer axle seals and

> new Spicer bushings and

> new Spicer axle u-joints

> new heavy duty T-style Moog steering linkage

> 2 new Moog upper ball joints

> 2 new Moog lower ball joints

> new brake job.

> new 3rd gen adjustable track bar,

> 4 new adjustable upper & lower control arms with poly bushings,

> new steering stabilizer,

> new DSS,

> 4 new Rancho RS9000 shocks, and

> 2 new front sway bar linkages



I also had both driveshafts completely rebuilt and balanced with



> all new spicer u-joints and a

> new carrier bearing,



When I said it's all new and upgraded, I really mean it. It cost a bloody fortune.



That was all immediately followed by the complete 4-wheel alignment.



I have since tried several different sets of wheels and tires and it now has the best tires and wheels that money can buy, too.



> 4 Rickson 19. 5 x 7 wheels

> 4 Michelin H-rated tires

> questionable (in my book) Equibalance stuff



The Death Wobble is gone, but it still shakes and trashes tires to the point of destroying the cords internally. At least that's what it did to two left front steer tires in less than a year. And I mean catastrophic blowouts.



The last one in June trashed the bumper, ripped out the wheelwell liner, horns, wiring, running board, and damaged the fender (the not-rusty one of course) and sent me across traffic and into the median after just passing two semis as everything jammed up in the wheelwell and locked up the steering.



The blowout before that, late last summer, was also on the interstate at 70mph, but my 16 year old son was driving with his younger brother as a passenger. He got it safely over to the shoulder without much incident, and there was nothing but shreds of that BFG Mud Terrain left.



When I say this truck is dangerous and endangered my kids and nearly killed me, I mean it. I have no mercy for dodge. And I won't even get into the crappy brake line that blew out while my wife was driving... (thanks for the cheap materials, mopar)



So like I said, there is very little that is not new, rebuilt, and upgraded and that definitely adds to my frustration. Start pricing all of these items and you'll see I'm not exaggerating a bit about spending thousands upon thousands of dollars either. And it still isn't right or fixed. I drive the trustworthy old chevy pickups more than the dodge now, and I don't let anyone else drive it either. But I'm not parting with the cummins.



The stupid unitized hubs, despite my suspicions of them, still check out tight & right and I even drilled them and the knuckles like Cumminspower98 did to his and installed grease zerks to keep them going until my bank account recovers well enough to finish the ford knuckle, spindle, hub, rotor, lockouts, 35-spline inner & outer shafts etc. to completely eliminate the unitized hubs, CAD, and wimpy multi-piece axle shafts.



I forgot to list here the two different frame & axle shops to check for bent, loose, or broken anything, including most especially bent or cracked axles and frame, the previous alignments, multiple wheel & tire rebalancings, and other attempts to let 'professionals' try to find the problem(s) that elude me. All to no avail except for the money they cost.



Had I known 5000 miles ago what all this effort, time, and money would fail to gain me, I definitely would have gone ahead and just swapped the cummins and transmission into my MUCH superior K30 crew cab, 1-ton single-rear-wheel old chevy and had a helluva truck. But you can see where I am so far down the road on financial committment in this danged dodge that I really need to see it through to final victory over it and get many more years out of it to recoup some investment. I should drive it anyway in hopes that someone will run a red light or something and total it without hurting the engine... that K30 is just waiting for the day the Death Trap Dodge finally falls off the Cummins.
 
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