2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Hot Nuts!

[ejmesser]

Scott,

I know this sounds like one of those questions that is so obtuse that you don't consider it, but have you tried removing your front driveshaft and testing to see if your symptoms still persist. This would at least perhaps help you further narrow down your issue. I hate you have had such a myriad of issues, but your experience is not consistent with other second gen owners that I know. I have quite a few acquaintances with second gens that seem to thrive on neglect. Please don't take this as making light of your issue. I am perplexed by the issues you are having, and would have thought that the with the addition of the medium duty tires/rims that you would be geared to go.

 

[AH64ID]

While the suspensions have nothing in common I'll add my experience with spacers. I put some 1. 25" spacers on a Toyota Tacoma, I needed them to clear chains.



I developed a horrible vibration in the wheel and body from about 35-65 mph. I couldn't beleive how bad it was. I then added the same spacer to the rear axle and it fixed it, back to stock smoothness.



The truck had 2K miles on it when I did the spacers, so I know it was 100% spacer related.



My point is that if you spacer the front axle you should spacer the rear axle the same amount.





Also, the spring isolator isn't common but not impossible. It's pretty easy to take the weight off the springs to see what shape the spring isolators are in.

 

[JMcCoy]

In theory, your front drive shaft "shouldn't" be turning when in 2wd, so it "shouldn't" effect anything. The front driveshaft should spin in your hand while in 2wd. If it doesn't, your CAD may not be fully dis-engaging. I sucked water in my vacuum diaghram, and caused the CAD to not fully engage or dis-engage. I would also try removing the rear drive shaft and drive it in front wheel drive. I know you had it balanced, but people make mistakes. It is a pain in the butt, but it would rule out the rear drive shaft.



Wheel spacers are not going to fix your problem. If anything they will multiply it. It doesn't matter if the front and rear spacers are different. It doesn't matter if they are different from left to rear. It doesn't matter if they are different from corner to corner. Racers put different spacers to get different handling. On my circle track car, I used to put wider spacers on my right side to aid in turning left. My truck came with stock steel wheels and no spacers. I wouldn't add spacers until the problem is located.

 

[JMcCoy]

If you choose to swap the whole axle, consider the Ford high pinion Dana 60s. They are high pinion and have reverse cut gears. They are stronger than anything Dodge or Chevy ever offered. Personally I would stay with a ball joint axle and keep the coils. They have a driver side drop, so you can use your NV 241 transfer case. If you want a stronger case, you can use a NV271 (manual shift) or NV273(push button shift) from a 3rd gen Dodge. It is still chain driven, but very strong. It is almost as strong as the famous NP205. Being chain driven it would be smoother than the 205. The best part is that you would only need to shorten the rear drive shaft. The front will bolt right up. Though not a bad idea, you don't need a cross member. The 271 also gets a lower gear ratio.



I know i'm getting ahead of the situation in hand, but i'm just optimistic about you finding and correcting your problems. Good luck

 

[NIsaacs]

In post 20, the OP said he rebuilt both drive shafts with all new parts and had them balanced.



I think his main issue is trashing his left front tires along with a vibration that may or may not be related. The problem has to be in the front end somewhere. I think considering any other part of the truck would be a waste of time unless the tire issue is not related to the vibration he gets.



Nick

 

[SRath]

There is a lot of good advice to check and even re-check here, and I will be doing that and answering in more detail after tomorrow. Right now, I had to put it all on "hold" while I finish a fundraiser event I have been organizing for a boy on the high school trapshooting team I coach who is battling leukemia. There really are worse problems than a shaky dodge...



I just wanted to jump on here quick tonight and let you guys know i appreciate the help, encouragement , and advice (despite my anti-dodge attitude at the moment) and will be following through until this problem is solved. If the thread hangs for a couple of days, or I'm a little slow getting on with the program, the above is the only reason.



Eric, the ricksons and michelins have smoothed things out tremendously and they are awesome, but that persistent little shake is still there and I simply have to solve it before it permanently affects those nice tires like it already has too many others.



By the way everyone, I want you all to know that I have a great Above-and-Beyond-the-Call TDR story to tell about those wheels and tires when I get back. EJMesser (Eric) is the guy that made it all happen and the story deserves more time and effort than I can devote to it tonight, but I think you'll find it worth the wait.

 

[Mhannink]

have you replaced the steering shaft and lower column bushing? i forget if you mentioned that yet or not. just thinking the front end could be tight and good if the shaft and or bushing are shot then it might shake a little, and maybe not consistent.

 

[TBartlett1]

Hot nuts?

I briefly read your post about the constant shake this morning and the grey matter jumped into action.

I purchased a new 1990 w350 2 years ago and it also had a constant shake that was not due to tires, steering or suspension.

After putting the truck on my lift and spinning the wheels I found that the left tire was not running true. The tire sidewall ran true but the tread had obvious run out between 1/8 & 3/16 inch.

Further investigation found the locking hub assembly to be the problem.

The stud bolt circle did not run true to the bearing CL.

I found no damage to any parts so it was obviously improperly machined.

I purchased this truck from the original owner so it’s hard to imagine it was never resolved.

The only thing I can imagine is the original hub spun a bearing and the replacement was defective.

I purchased this truck near Fresno Ca. and the original tags said DUCKYO!

Anyone remember this blue W350??



Tim