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Hot Wiring my 92

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Finally here.

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Ok... . I need to get the truck started. I will be running straight from the battery. Which wire does what? The engine cranks fine. So I need to get the fuel flowing and be able to kill it.



Blue



Grey



White

truck inj pump.jpg
 
The blue wire comes from the ignition feed to run the fuel shutoff solenoid. The other wire goes to the air temp sensor then back to the KSB, to activate the KSB (cold start advance) if it's cold enough. The blue wire needs to be unplugged when hot wiring or you'll backfeed to your ignition switch. To kill it, you'll have to switch the wire in the cab, or run a cable to the little lever in front of the solenoid.
 
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Thanks, I won't be driving it right away. I'll pull the blue off and switch it in the engine compartment. And it's 76 out :)

Thank-you very much.
 
I wasn't particularily impressed. I have an electric pump as well. I'm going crack all the lines at the same time and crank again. Maybe it's my brain, but from what I remember it should have been a mess. I'm going change out the fuel filter as well.
 
When you hit the solenoid with electricity, does it click noticeably? I could be stuck..... :cool: And yes, there should be a GOOD spray of diesel out of the injector line, if the pump is working properly..... 10-62
 
Ok I didn't have a chance to thank everybody last weekend.

But Sunday it fired up on the first try. It just wasn't spinning fast enough. I hooked up my battery charger which has a "start" option. I gave it a squirt of WD-40 and it fired on the first try. This is the second firing. I let it run for an hour or so before I killed it :)

 
Yeah, I'd wager it still had some air in it. You were just on the verge, probably, the other day. Usually, if they'll roll over, even a little, they'll start right up, if primed. I've started a LOT of them after sitting for a long time or running out of fuel... ... . ANYWAY, glad you got 'er going!! Love that compression!!! :D
 
Thanks everybody... . Now to get some bugs out. I let it idle while I was cleaning it and after about 20 minutes it conked out. I was having trouble starting it. Finally it kicked over and I pulled it back in the driveway. It almost seemed like it had a low idle issue. Before it happened I swapped out the fuel filter. But I don't think it was air pocket issue. Now before I pulled it off the road (years ago) I was having some starting issues. I was guessing it needed the valve adjustment. I got it in the 130k's and drove it at least 20k something more after I got it. I have no idea if it was checked before that. I tried going to the dealer after I first got it and they said not to worry. Anyway, when I first got it, it fired up on what felt like half a crank. Now its a little harder now and I keep the WD-40 handy. Any ideas on this?
 
You have either a pump failure or an air leak somewhere. If it runs fine once it's running, I'd wager it's an air leak in a fuel line or the lift pump. Perhaps in the fuel heater, as well.
 
I found my old post on this... ... UGH!!!

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ing-me-nuts-among-other-things&highlight=fass

Last week when I fired the truck up it was sorta pointed downhill and ran fine for an hour. When I was washing it and it died it was pointed slightly up hill. Its in the driveway pointed slightly up hill and wont fire up. I'll change the fuel lines and check everything from the electric fuel pump to the IP over the 4th July weekend :(
 
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You may be on to something there. You could have a failed fuel sending unit, indicating and incorrect fuel level, and you could have a crack in the fuel line in the pickup unit in the tank..... Try adding a substantial amount of fuel and see if it will prime up, perhaps?
 
That's pretty much what I'm going to do. Unfortunately I'll need a tow truck to come and turn the truck around. Then I'll be able to pull the bed and go over the entire fuel system. Maybe that would also be a good time to install an air dog or something.

Anybody have any ideas on that?

The good news is that my 1987 190d turbo should be out of the shop tomorrow :)
 
I'd avoid anything electric. Higher failure rate and prone to wear. Not to mention you can't get it to work when your battery is dead... .

The fuel lines I was thinking of were the rubber lines from the frame to pump and then from the tank to frame... . A bad O ring at the quick connects could be the culprit, too... .
 
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