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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) How are Auto's Supposed to Act?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fluid Specs Question

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) clutch sippage

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Been reading a lot about how not to lug the engine and put undue strain on the transmission but I'm still at bit confused as to how it should act and what actually constitutes "being hard" on it.



I just jumped out of a 2wd 1/2 ton and I still can't get used to how this "big" truck's transmission runs. I don't know if something is wrong with it or not. I should say that it has had the 99 re-flash and the previous owner said a new transmission was put in at 40k (70k now) and that right before I bought it the transmission had be serviced (oil/bands adjusted etc).



Anyway, the best way I can describe how it feels (especially from the 1st to 2nd shift) is to compare it with the characteristics of 2-stroke motocross bike when you over-rev past the top-end and they start to fall on their faces. Seems like my truck tachs out past the top of the torque/hp curve, then shifts. The shifts seems good and firm but they seem a bit late and or I wonder if there's some slippage going on or if this is the "normal" feel of a 3/4 ton diesel auto transmission.



The other thing I'm curious about is that the truck seems to have awesome acceleration when the TC is in lockup; a little pedal equals good forward movement. Should you have a better burst feel when out of lockup vice running locked up?



Will have a Westach temp gauge in the pan probably this week for a start (in-line one coming later). Wondering if it does slip between shifts if I'll see spikes in temp.



Thanks in advance!
 
what rpm is is going to before it shifts ? a misadjusted TV cable can be a cause of a delayed shift .



as far as locked VS unlocked with a factory convertor , the factory convertor is a piece of junk made to make the trans live past the inital 36k miles. if you spend money on anything it getting a proper built unit and a GOOD convertor .
 
I'll second that

I have a 99 with the flash also. The factory converter stall speed is to high. Set up very loose. I've never driven anything like it and am saving up the money to put in an aftermarket trans/torque converter to solve this mess.

No, I'm not going to mention the brand!
 
Well, in stock trucks with stock auto's they feel like a boat in water trying to pull a barge. Or it feels like it is defective and slipping. It is only defective by design, not by the engineers standard.

Save the money and put a real converter in it. Do what the trans company tells you-follow their advice. BUT make sure they specialize it the dodge auto. Call at least 3 companies and if the talk sounds to good to be true, back away and study it.
 
The 24V should shift at 3000RPM +- 100RPM wide open,if this is where its shifting its fine,and you need to have the engine/lift pump checked since the engine isnt pulling hard up top. If the shifts are later you can adjust the kickdown cable back a few clicks to lower it slightly. Your factory TC is a good TC-for a gasser,thats what it was meant for,a gasser,not diesel that pulls hard from 1600-2700. A top quality TC and a valve body will go a long way to improve the drivablity and torque capacty of the trans. You will not ever be happy with a stock auto until it goes into lockup,so start saving your $$ for some upgrades.
 
Thanks a lot everyone.



It does shift around 3k wide open, the engine does pull hard on top, and I have a new LP in that's about a month old and still tests good. It just seemed like I didn't get as much "GO" (compared to the engine RPM) until it went into lockup. What you guys are describing makes me feel ok in that what I'm experiencing seems to be "normal" given what we have to work with.



Was thinking about getting either the DD True Torque box or Edge EZ as one of my first BOMBs but maybe I'll save the pennies for a TC/VB uprade. Decisions, decisions.....
 
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